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Replies: 13 / Views: 1,735 |
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Valued Member
United States
459 Posts |
I'm planning on building a set of Peace dollars and I'm really torn on what grade to do... Either way many of the more common dates will be MS63 or higher. I originally considered doing MS62 as the lower limit, but the 34-s would absolutely kill my budget. I don't know whether I should do the 21 and 28 in 62 and have the 34-s a low Au/xf, but the set may not be as uniform. I'm starting to think most of the better dates in Au58/MS60-61 and then the set may be more uniform among the keys. My budget is around $150 per coin on the more common dates and I'd save a while to afford some of the better ones.
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
You have obviously spent some time considering this collection, which is wonderful. I myself recommend what I call "cliff" buying where I go up to the next big jump in price from one grade to the next.
In other words, a choice eye appeal common date 1922 makes more that a double jump from the MS64 to the MS65 in price, so I'd stick with the 64. It doesn't make much sense to get a 63 because the prices for the 63 and 64 are almost the same.
When you get to the tougher dates, such as the 1934-S that you mention, the same thing holds true, although at a much lower grade. In that case from a nice XF-40 to a AU-55 you are looking at 3 to 4 TIMES the cost. So for me, finding a beautiful eye example in the 40 or 45 range would make more sense.
There are not too many sets where there isn't at least one stopper. When I'm working on those, I'm perfectly happy to get a nice eye appeal coin in a lower grade, rather that spending all my money on a single coin that may only be a little bit better in real terms.
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Valued Member
United States
262 Posts |
I assembled a Peace dollar collection many years ago and really enjoyed it. I think you've chosen a good series. I agree with moxking. I would emphasize eye appeal over numeric grade. A truly attractive EF45 or AU58 is preferable to an MS61 that lacks eye appeal. Set "uniformity" is very subjective and ultimately you should do what you find most satisfying. In my opinion, if all the coins have good eye appeal the set will bring a smile to any who view them - you most of all. :) And as you obtain the first few coins the overall harmony of the set's appearance will begin to form. That can guide you in selecting the remaining pieces whether XF, AU, or MS.
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Valued Member
 United States
459 Posts |
Thank you for replies! I think I may end up doing the keys in Au55-58, as the price difference between 58 and 62 is significant. 1921 is around 180 in 58 and 360 in 62 1928 is around 400 in 58 and that would be pushing my budget I will try to get mostly goldish colored coins and try to match the look with the others.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3210 Posts |
I have a 1928 ngc au55 that'll run you around $400 1921 in Au55 is between 150-200
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
I wouldn't really worry too much about the grade, just make sure that you are buying vey good value for money with each purchase.
I agree that it is good to have a nice balanced set condition wise, but your budget might not allow that in higher grades. Easier to rationalize and get a few top grade coins when they come along, and for the really scarce dates to accept a lower grade.
When it may come to sell them at some time in decades to come, the most common type of buyer will most probably be someone like yourself, looking for individual coins, rather that someone looking for a completed set, where the block purchase price may be way out of reach for most people.
Edited by sel_69l 09/28/2015 6:56 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
IN GENERAL longtime collectors avoid MS-60, -61 and -62. They MUCH rather have an AU-58 (maybe even a -55) than one of those grades
I recommend skipping those MS grades. If you can't reach MS-63 or more go with high AU.
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Valued Member
 United States
459 Posts |
Ahh.. That may be a very good plan for me kanga. I have subconsciously done that with most of the coins I've purchased and I do agree that a Au 58 or 55 will probably have more eye appeal or be a better coin to buy versus a 60,61, or 62. Thank you very much!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
I have a set of Peace dollars and I think that is a great set to start with because you can collect it all for reasonable prices. If you start with Morgans or even Liberty Standing quarters it will get difficult and expensive in a hurry. Liberty Walking half dollars are nice as well but when you get to earlier dates they get expensive in anything approaching mint condition. If you collect a set of Franklin half dollars in BU condition that is also a nice set to collect. I think all the coins that start in early 20th century that are sliver or gold are desirable because of nostalgia. The baby boomers are the ones with the money now days. I was born in 1950 and I can remember many early coins circulating that are not seen today.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1554 Posts |
I would do them all in MS63 or above, but, just take your time. You will be more satisfied in the long run and they will be very liquid.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1192 Posts |
Out of curiosity why is AU 55/58 better than ms 60/61/62?
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Valued Member
 United States
459 Posts |
Sa330206, the way I'm thinking about it is a MS60-62 is an unc coin, but has a lot of bag marks, weak strike, impaired luster or something else that held it back from a higher MS grade. Where as an AU58 can be a MS64 or higher coin with nice luster, that just has some minor wear. The term slider also comes to mind where a coin may either be 58 or 64, just depending on what you view as wear on the coin. I think with Au you have more probability of finding a nicer strike or quality vs a MS60-62
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CCF Sponsor
United States
702 Posts |
sa330206, like 1916 D Merc said it's all about eye appeal. In some series, the strike is so weak on an unc coin that they can get a lower grade like a 62 and be banged up a bit whereas a well-struck lustrous 58 can have few marks and the wear will cause it to look a lot like that weakly struck 62. So you get just about the same eye appeal, sometimes much higher appeal for sometimes about half the money.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1192 Posts |
Thanks that really helps! I have a 1921 peace graded ms62 that some other members called a "slider", now it makes sense. This coin still has luster and a very strong strike. It's the only "valuable" Peace dollar I have. Putting together a nice set with only ebay as your source is tough!
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Replies: 13 / Views: 1,735 |
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