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When Grading: Strike Vs Wear Vs Damage

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Turbolag's Avatar
United States
127 Posts
 Posted 10/12/2015  9:41 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Turbolag to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Hello,

I've been going through my boxes of modern US coins I've sorted by date in hopes of filling up albums just to get a feel for selecting coins, inspecting, grading and conserving them for albums and it's got me scratching my head on a couple of things. I feel torn trying to select the "best" example of a coin for a particular date when I have a whole roll of them.

So is there an agreed upon standard for what a "well struck" coin is? When going through my Roosevelt dimes, I would find many with lots of luster, and what looks like a good, strong strike, yet the rim will be off center a bit, leaving almost no rim generally at about 5:00 on the coin with extra rim on the opposite site. I googled some high graded examples of some modern rosies and saw they were all centered. If I were to guess these are more desired (although some of the off center ones otherwise look great). Is this accurate? is there any exception to this?

I would find myself looking at a few coins of the same year - one would be well struck, but less luster, more wear. Another would be struck a little off center, but have lots of luster, no scratches. And then some would be in otherwise great condition but they have a hit or scratch on the rim or design. Or they would look perfect...except for one tiny piece of gunk. Is it better to pick a well worn example of a problem free coin, or something shinier with more eye appeal that may have some problems?

And this is just in terms of coins ranging from worth their face value, to say a few dollars of value. I know the priorities may be different when shopping for a key date, or otherwise expensive coin, but answers for both situations are welcome!

So how should someone prioritize pros and cons of a particular coin when comparing to another? The criteria I can think of so far are:

Normal Circulation wear
Damage
Gunk/dirt/verdigris on coin
Quality of strike
Tone (this one seems a little more personal opinion but where does tone end, and just an ugly, dirty coin begin?)
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BH1964's Avatar
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10982 Posts
 Posted 10/12/2015  11:42 pm  Show Profile   Check BH1964's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add BH1964 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'd line them up this way:

1. Normal Circulation wear
2. Quality of strike (usually only VF and above)
3. Tone (also as luster)
4. Gunk/dirt/verdigris (also as eye appeal as long NOT damage)

Damage is a separate category for "no-grade" coins.

Nice list you put together here.
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BadThad's Avatar
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19961 Posts
 Posted 10/13/2015  11:39 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
If I were to guess these are more desired (although some of the off center ones otherwise look great). Is this accurate? is there any exception to this?


The correct terminology you're looking for is a MAD (Mis-Aligned Die). An off-center coin is off on BOTH side and is considered an error. MAD's are just considered to be part of the minting process, pretty common and generally not collectible unless part of the design gets cut-off.

As far as grading, in general, a MAD will have no effect until you get to 66 and up. A nice MAD with great luster and few hits that would normally grade 67 might be dropped to a 66 as it's seen as an "imperfection".

Also, my preference in general is for mint state coins. If I'm choosing between a well-stuck circulated coin and a lesser struck MS coin, I usually side with the MS example. However, what's wrong with keeping BOTH? Too often collectors get cornered into thinking they should only keep one coin (to fill a single hole). One of the reasons I don't care for albums/folders.

I simply use pocket pages (3-ring binder type) so I have total flexibility. If I like a coin for ANY reason, it goes into my collection. I have everything from G to MS, toned, error, variety, MAD, whatever in my collection....if I like it, I keep it.
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Turbolag's Avatar
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127 Posts
 Posted 10/13/2015  12:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Turbolag to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Great, this is very helpful!
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Finn235's Avatar
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6130 Posts
 Posted 10/13/2015  1:02 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Finn235 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Every modern design has a few points that grade junkies look for when determining strike quality. These are usually extremely fine parts of the design that are the first to go when the die wears out. Here's what I generally look for in modern US coins:

Cents: Pretty rare to find luster on any coins from before about 1993. After that, I choose the ones free of plating bubbles and carbon spots. Steps are apparently the marker of a good strike--look for straight, Unbroken steps on the Memorial.

Nickels: Full steps are king from 1938 until about 1986. You can find plenty of resources to help you there. After 1987, I go for surfaces that are smooth and free of bag marks. This is especially important to the eye appeal of coins 2005 and later.

Dimes: Earlier issues rarely have well-defined bands on the torch. Since the 2000s, they all seem to be well made so I don't really know how to help you there.

Quarters: anything BU from 1965-1998 is a keeper in my book. I go for State Quarters that are BU and free of bag marks or ugly album toning. All ATB Quarters seem to be weakly struck so far.

Half dollars: Clean fields, good details on the hair and the eagle are critical. BU coins from 1971-1977 and 1992-2001 are common; 1978-1991 are harder to find with a good strike.

SBA dollars: It's all about full talons; these are hard to find.

Gold dollars: Pretty universally well struck and also hard to find in their original color.
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