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Replies: 12 / Views: 1,999 |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
1222 Posts |
I've had to replace my camera as my older one just gave out. I was happy with the old Nikon I had so I bought a new Nikon P610 and I've been trying some close up pictures. As you can see I'm having some trouble with the bronze coloured metal. I'd appreciate any critique and or advice? Cheers, Bill    
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4963 Posts |
Colors are definitely a bit weird, if that first one is supposed to be bronze colored. Also- 1914-1919? 
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Valued Member
United States
74 Posts |
Hi, the most important factor in numismatic photography is lighting. I use 2 halogen wide angle flood lights. They get pretty hot but are only like $2.50 each. The brighter the light, the more can get to the camera's sensor so the clearer and less noisy your picture will be. You want the lights at about camera level with them as close to the camera as you can get. The higher the angle of the light the better. If some of the parts of the coin turn out pure white, move the lights farther away from the camera but keep them at the same level. And definitely don't use the flash! LED lights are the worst - even really bright ones - the light is just too white and turns up as red blue and green pixels in the picture. Bright, concentrated natural light bulbs are what you want. It looks like you have the right kind of camera, a big and bulky point and shoot with a high zoom (like 15x or more) works best (or a dslr of course is better) These pictures were taken with a 7 year old 8 megapixel Canon. The camera should be about a 15 inches away form the coin so the lights can be at high angles with no shadows. Also a white background works better too for the cameras white balance. These are on a white sheet of paper but since the camera is getting all the light from the coin, the paper is looks darker. Hope this helps some!  
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4963 Posts |
Thanks, I think I could use this information as well. I'm not great with photography- I'm ashamed to admit that until now I have been using an LED desk lamp at a low angle and a cell phone camera. 
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4037 Posts |
Well, I use LEDs exclusively so definitely have issues with folks advising against them. But I do have a problem with low angles, and to eliminate the red/blue sparklies you do need to diffuse the LEDs so they are not such a small source. Once you diffuse them a bit, they act just like halogens, only much cooler.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Pillar of the Community
New Zealand
1679 Posts |
If using LED lights then make sure that you camera is set for daylight shots also make sure that the light is behind the lens and not in front of it. I also defuse the LEDs by using a cut up plastic milk bottle and shooting the lights through it
Cheers Don
Vickies cents and GB Farthings nut. "Old" is a figure of speech and nothing more
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Pillar of the Community
New Zealand
1679 Posts |
Nice shots Picc
Cheers Don
Vickies cents and GB Farthings nut. "Old" is a figure of speech and nothing more
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4037 Posts |
Quote: If using LED lights then make sure that you camera is set for daylight shots also make sure that the light is behind the lens and not in front of it. Please explain your reasoning for these statements. I use either Tungsten (for Jansjos, when I am lazy) or a custom White Balance, and always put the light between the lens and the coin.
Edited by rmpsrpms 10/21/2015 11:44 pm
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
1222 Posts |
Numisma, these are a pair of WWI medals and the first one it made of silver but it has rich steel blue toning. It looks like I've been doing it all wrong. First I'm using a florescent light and I used the flash with a black background. This camera has a 60x zoom and when in macro you can use automatic focus up to about four inches from the subject. Moving in any closer you have to manually focus but it will focus to about 1/4 inch away from the subject when on manual. Of course these pictures were taken in auto. Here's the info on the first picture 2383 X 3070 6.2MB ISO 200 11.6 mm away f/5.3 aperture? 1/30 shutter speed white balance and flash on Auto
Do these numbers make any sense or should something be adjusted?
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4037 Posts |
Bill...it's never a good idea to mix light sources. You can never get colors balanced...Ray
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
1222 Posts |
I appreciate all the comments now I've tried it with not using the flash and this is what I've ended up with. First photo's without the flash and the second photo with the flash...and it looks better and is very close to the actual color. I've only cropped these pictures and have made no other adjustment. Do I have some setting wrong, why no color?  
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4963 Posts |
The last one looks good, just a bit of glare at the top.
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
1222 Posts |
Here's the same photo from above after some adjustment in iPhoto and the color is very close to that of the medal in hand. 
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Replies: 12 / Views: 1,999 |
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