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 Replies: 48 / Views: 6,639 |
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Valued Member
United States
127 Posts |
So after much internal debate on trying to pick just ONE set of coins to focus on for the time, I've decided to try to complete a set of Walkers. It's cool to try to delve in to one single design; I've been reading some on them, scrolling ebay, checking by places that sell both junk silver and are also coin shops, and searching through posts here I'm still not sure exactly how I want to approach this. I already had over a dozen walkers my dad gave me when I was a kid, which filled a few dates for me. All common, G-F grade. I've been buying a couple at a time from a local pawn/antique store, and a coin shop in the suburbs, and each time was getting at least one new date/mint but obviously in circulated shape. Pawn shop sells for $15 over face, and the coin shop is selling for $16 over face for a walker paired with a Franklin (they let you pick the bags, but wont let you sort through it) and the rest are slabbed. Pawn shop had a bunch when I first came in, but the past few times they haven't had any at all. At this point the I have a wider variety of dates in my collection, than are at the coin and pawn shops near me. I've read some things in archived posts along the lines of "you can get most dates for junk price", and I've seen listings on ebay for groups of 10,20,25 that are all different dates that go for $10+ per coin. Basically I'm just wondering what I SHOULD be paying for common G-VF grade coins when trying to build up a set. I'm a little leery of buying finer grades raw as far as cleaning and counterfeits go, and just as suspicious of slabbed coins that could counterfeited. I've seen some raw and slabbed fakes on this site of various coins and I really can't tell the difference between some of them, which makes me nervous about really buying any coin that's worth over $100 without really getting to know what I'm doing. So any advice would be greatly appreciated. Or in other words, what are you Do's and Don'ts for collecting walkers? On a side note, I'm going to my first coin show in town, hoping to pick up a few more walkers and I've set aside about $200 to make a dent in the project. |
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Rest in Peace
United States
18456 Posts |
Your decision to collect a set of walkers puts a smile  on my face. I love walkers for their design and beauty. there is only a few that will be a challenge for you. So good luck and have fun. OH, also try to buy at least G-06 or BETTER and you'll have a decent set.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3210 Posts |
Dates that are more than junk will be earlier dates especially 1916-PDS, 1921PDS, and 38D. Some other earlier dates like 23S and such cost a decent amount in grades F and UP>
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Valued Member
United States
288 Posts |
You want to go for what you find attractive in the highest grade you can afford. If you are buying at or near melt and if you are wise, get as many as you can afford and if you have to leave any behind, leave excessively worn, harshly cleaned and damaged behind.
Then, go to the local coin shop with those that are duplicates or damaged, or if a pawn shop has a bunch of nicer coins they were going to melt anyway, ask them what they would charge you to exchange one for one, or even give them 11 for 10 that you pick.
I have filled many semi key dates and upgraded common dates (think 42, 43, 44, 45) to AU for a 5 to 10% premium with my coin dealer. A local pawn shop let me take 30 Walkers and Barbers in trade for 31 1963 Franklins and 1964 Kennedys.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7187 Posts |
The Walking Liberty half set is one of my favorites. collected as a young man in whatever grade I could acquire and currently upgrading as I see fit each and every one is a treasure.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
I have a complete set of Walkers. You can buy more common dates online for what is essentially retail prices. When you get earlier than 1930 the coins will be mostly worn and those in better than EF condition get expensive. That 1916-S Muddler shows would probably cost you $650-800. 1921-S in that condition might cost you $4000 or more. You don't have to spend that much because the coins are available, but condition is the key factor. The difference between early Walkers in VG or F condition and those in MS condition can really be enormous. You can always fill the holes and then go back later and upgrade. I would be really happy if my entire collection was in EF condition. One 1921D in MS condition is worth all those made in the 1940's and late 30's.
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Valued Member
 United States
127 Posts |
Thanks guys, this info is very helpful. I just made my first walker purchase on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121793945481 I reasoned at the price of $10.25 per coin it was a good value since they look to be in fine grade, and are earlier dates. Photos looked a little off, but the seller states they are not damaged or cleaned and accepts returns so I figured id go for it! |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6383 Posts |
That looks like a really nice lot for the price. If you can complete your set in comparable grades you will have a real treasure when complete.
Congrats, and good luck!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
Three of your Walkers are in really fine condition and the prices are very low. You did really well IMO. When you can see details of Liberty's dress on 1920 coin that is pretty great. When I started collecting them I started with the 1940's getting them in AU condition when possible. Then I collected coins in all decades saving the really tough ones for last. Now I think if you can find the more rare ones at great prices you should buy them when you see them. For large collections buying the cheaper ones in MS condition if you can is a way to do it such as with Morgans, but everyone has there preference.
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Valued Member
United States
288 Posts |
The 1920 is skirting a VF grade, very nice, the 20S is nice and in what would be a little better than average circulated, very collectible.
The 27S and 29S are better than average with the 29S being a Fine plus, but is a weak strike, so the whole length of the body was probably flat in MS, typical for those years. The reverse is nicely struck. You got a true bargain and an excellent start, congratulations.
As a seller, I would honor the transaction, but would be a little upset they didn't fetch a higher price, they are worth much more. I would have listed those around $17 to $20 each and if they didn't get an opening bid I would keep them. Great eye.
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Valued Member
United States
127 Posts |
Nice, sounds like I did something right. This is great to hear when I've been feeling kind of dismal about getting a deal on ebay. As far as collecting order, I'm more inclined to just buy whatever I see that seems fair as long as it's not a key date. I've heard advice about starting with the latest date and working backward. This makes sense, but I figure for lower grades I should just buy whatever I find that seems good. As I get better with them I WOULD like to start a set a graded ones, and would definitely start with the latest dates and work backward. First graded one i'd like to buy would be a later date coin thats well struck in ms64 or 65 just so I can have a good example of what to look for if I come across better grade walkers in raw. The things I've been reading up on about counterfeit slabs is even more disconcerting than finding a counterfeit raw coin. And the fact that people seem to be faking even common coins make matters worse. There are plenty of pcgs ms65 walkers on ebay ranging from $100-150 buy it now, but I have no idea if i'd be making a mistake or not. I know I could get one from a coin shop, or a show, but still how would you know they either weren't duped, or are they themselves doing the duping. Sure, for this particular coin its probably not a big deal, but I feel like my concerns are still legitimate, especially if I find a coin in MS condition that looks like it's priced too low because after all, I love a good deal. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
Usually, I find that on ebay you will pay high retail for any coins you buy. You could probably do better at a coin shop where you establish a relationship with the owner and let him know you want to complete a set of high grade Walkers. Tell him to call you when he gets some into the shop. Coin dealers like steady customers they know they can sell to over and over again. I use a coin shop in Tampa and the owner always gives me discounts for cash etc., and for buying coins and trading coins with him. I also know that when I buy a coin from him and he says it is in VF condition, for example, it is in that condition and no games. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1187 Posts |
Nice choice on starting up a WL collection! Since I can't afford the older ones in high grade I'm doing a different type of WL collection. I pick up AU/BU ones when I can get them for $8-10. I've got quite a few 40's ones in great shape. I think it's a beautiful coin and love getting the high grades (even if I can only afford ones from the 40's). Good luck with your set!!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
SA Are you really able to get high grade Walkers from the 40's for $8-10. Those are great prices and it shows how much the silver content of the coin affects their value. The coin is so beautiful the mint picked the design to use for the Silver Eagles that are 1 ounce of silver and sell for about $20 for the 2015. I would rather collect the Walkers in AU/BU condition for $12 bucks or so. You will never see a high grade Walker in circulation from any time period. I think the price will go up on these coins. The Walkers and Peace dollars are valued at about their silver melt value in many cases in lower grades. If you can buy high grade walkers for cheap prices I would really go for it. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1187 Posts |
Terry it's not often but yes I've found them for those prices for common dates. Unfortunately it's not something I find everyday, otherwise I'd be broke from buying so many :). I agree that even the common 40s ones in great shape will go up in value over time. They are probably my favorite coin design.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
Since we were talking about Walkers I got my set out of deposit box and started to examine it. I found some problems with some of my coins. On the early ones with the mint mark on the obverse I have two 1917's both "D" and "S"and for the life of me I cannot tell which is a "D" and which is an S. When they are pretty worn the "D" and "S" start to look like each other. One is definitely a "D" but the other could be a "D" or an "S". I bought these coins off ebay a while back. I really need a camera so I can show them here. I am going to do that now. I also found I had a 1933-S where the 1934-S should be in my Dansco set. This teaches me to not be in a hurry to buy online. Buying from my LCS I would not have had this problem I don't think. It is good to get out the old sets and revisit them with an eye to an upgrade. I also want to upgrade my 1916-S and just about all my coins before 1929. I would like them all in EF but I don't think I can afford it all in a flash. I was really wanting to complete the set so most before 1923 are just in "G" to "VG" condition especially the money shots. |
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Replies: 48 / Views: 6,639 |
Posted 10/28/2015 9:44 pm
