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 Replies: 13 / Views: 2,083 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
I have found recently at least that if you are collecting key dates for Buffalo nickels in "F" to "VF" condition you can get very good deals on ebay. This is a first for me. I only bought slabbed and graded coins and was able to buy VF coins at F prices or even less. |
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
A few example might be helpful for us to appreciate your finds. Depending on what 'pricing' system you are using what might be considered a good buy might not be so wonderful. ebay is the most current price for the most 'common' coins that US Collectors are searching for. Viewing their completed listings for most US coins will give you a very firm idea of what particular coins are selling for. In the end you should always remember that regardless of what you paid, by winning the lot you were willing to pay more than anyone else who viewed and could afford to buy those pieces. |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1450 Posts |
OK, I bought a 1924-S, F-15 for $140: 1913-D, type 2, F-15 for $125: 1921-S, VG-8 for $77: a 1913-S, Type 2, VF-25 for $425 and finally a 1926-S in VF-20 for $250. These coins were all slabbed and certified by top grading companies. I am not saying I did anything great, but that these prices seem pretty reasonable compared to the price lists I have since I am not a dealer. Am I making an error? It seems except for error coins and three-legged coins I was able to get most of the key dates in high "F" or "VF" condition all for around $1000. Beyond "VF" the prices do tend to explode upwards. Buying the Buffalo nickels was sort of a second thought since I have been looking for a decent 1916 LSQ, but am not willing to pay $7000 for a coin with a barely legible date, so I have given up on that for a while. I am going to get a camera soon so I can post pics of some of my coins. I know there is no "free lunch" so you don't get something for nothing. I just find it easy (for a change) to buy this particular certified coin on ebay and I don't feel I am taking a big chance of buying a fake or coin with hidden flaw. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4468 Posts |
If you buy strong coins for the grade with nice eye appeal in slabs from PCGS or NGC on ebay, you are making a solid purchase, but only buy from sellers who offer a return. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
Yes, I can agree to that. I would rather buy them from a person-to-person transaction but that is not always possible. I need to go back over my purchases to make sure of their return policy. I know that if deals appear to good to be true they probably not true deals.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2815 Posts |
I need 5 more to complete my set (1913-D T2, 1913-S T1 & T2, 1914-D and 1915-S). So far, I have spent $1,063 on my Buffalo nickel collection. All have full dates and all have original surfaces. I don't care anything about "horns". I just want all of my coins to have full dates and mint marks. My coins range from VF-BU. I'm very proud of this collection. It has been fun and challenging. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1339 Posts |
I have bought a couple slabbed coins off e-bay, but have noticed that most, are coins without that WOW eye appeal..Lots of times the ones that dealers have a hard time moving...I have had issues with "buying the slab" , not the coin...My mistake! If you look close you'll be ok
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Valued Member
United States
398 Posts |
terry is right .... This little auction went off and nobody wanted this 1924-s for under $20 ..... I won it and it has a good 1/3 to maybe 1/2 horn and no problem coin .... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1924-S-Buff...p=true&rt=ncStill looking for a 1914-d and need to upgrade about a dozen ..... I'm going for at least partial horns and better .... But ya some killer deals, if you don't get too anxious Here is another example .... I put the 13-s into my collection and sold the 13-d for $25 or so and have the 13-p up for $15 or so .... Bottom line I got the 13-s for about $15 after expenses ..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1913-P-D-S-...p=true&rt=ncA complete set, less the errors, has a book value of $2.796 F15 and $5k in VF30 per PCGS Price Guide and jumps to about $10k in XF 45, with s few AU coins tossed in .... In AU 55 allow $16-$17k ... And a nice AU58 allow $20k! Edited by LocalCoinGuy
01/11/2016 11:54 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4809 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
398 Posts |
Finished my Lincolns and now on Buffalos, I just love them and had an almost complete set but it was a set of good to fine coins with even an acid date, that set collected dust for years but now I'm back after it ......
Working on upgrading to VF-AU and even BU and when I find a deal such as that 24-S I'll buy it for a second set or grandkid or flip it ... Need the 1918/7 and a 14-D to complete but then I've got such dates as the 1917 PDS that are in need of help - So a ways to go, figure 4-6 months of searching .....
Most important thing I've learned is be patient, deals will come just be patient
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
As has been noted, the appeal of the coin makes almost as much difference as the assigned grade. As long as you like them and you are buying them for the prices you mention, you will be putting your money toward a nice set at a reasonable price.
About the only problem with set building is when you get to the point of buying some of the more common dates in any series it's very easy to buy "much better" conditions then for the scarcer and more expensive pieces.
In other words, if you've been happy with VF 20-30 for most of your early date mint marks, a fully BU 1936 Buffalo will seem like a steal. The next thing you know you have a few BU pieces and a number of lower grade pieces, and you decide to upgrade those less wonderful examples.
That can go on indefinitely, which some folks find fun.
I always buy the key dates first in the best grade I can afford, then go from there keeping to a 'matched set' look. Then when I'm done I'm not tempted to upgrade, which you almost always lose out on.
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Valued Member
United States
398 Posts |
moxking, you hit the nail on the head .....
Buy your key dates first in the best condition you can afford and then work on the more common dates, maybe uphill at first but the last few miles are easy to run!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2815 Posts |
Quote:
Most important thing I've learned is be patient, deals will come just be patient I'm still learning this. Still. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
I see the three-legged nickel and the overstrikes are expensive. If it is easy to get certified coins for, in some cases, less than the non-certified "trust me" coins then I that that is a pretty good deal all things being equal.
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Replies: 13 / Views: 2,083 |
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Posted 01/11/2016 4:15 pm
