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 Replies: 21 / Views: 2,547 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
968 Posts |
Hello! I used to be a regular here but stopped collecting for several years. Now the collecting bug has bitten me again so I'm getting back into it again. Feeling pretty rusty, but reading CCF is getting me back up to speed! Anyway, I've never tried acid dating nickels before but I have two candidates I'm considering trying. I'd like to get your advice on if I should do it and the best way to go about it. I've attached pictures of the coins. The first is an incredibly heavily worn Shield nickel. Literally the only thing I can make out is the bottom half of the "5". My thought is I have nothing to lose by trying it out and seeing what happens, if you guys think I might get something. The second is of bigger concern to me. Several years ago I bought this Buffalo nickel on ebay for maybe $3 because I think it may be an unrecognized 1921S. Two problems with this. One is the last number in the date is obscured. However, I can't really see that being any other number than a "1", plus the braid in the hair plus a feather being wavy are (I believe) unique to 1921. Correct me if I am wrong. Second is there may or may not be a mint mark on the back! There is definitely some sort of bump just below the gap between the "E" of five and the "C" of cents. That is where the mint mark should be and there was no 1921D. I've uploaded two pictures of the reverse with different lighting to show that under some conditions the bump stands out while in other light conditions it is harder to see. I'm fully aware that people have the ability to imagine things that aren't really there, so that's why I'm asking for opinions on the Buffalo. The big question is if I should dip it in acid to try to get clarity, or if there is some less destructive way to be certain of exactly what it is.      |
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Rest in Peace
United States
18456 Posts |
Forget the acid , a lot of guys now are using peroxide for bringing up details on worn Nickels . supposedly it brings up the whole coin not just a particular area .
If edweather see's this he'll tell you more about it .
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1277 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
186 Posts |
never heard of anyone trying that on Shield nickelsimagine how many transactions that shield did ... a Jefferson nickel would get pulled way before it got that slick just think that today's nickels are a result of the civil war effects |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4591 Posts |
If you can date it at all by unique die varieties, etc. do no use acid.
-----Burton 50+ year / Life / Emeritus ANA member (joined 12/1/1973) Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, EveryCountry (online) coin club Owned by three cats and a wife of 40+ years (joined 1983) Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book, https://www.sampleslabs.info/ |
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Moderator
 United States
188213 Posts |
Welcome back, Saruma.  |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
968 Posts |
Thanks for the replies so far. I'd still love any more comments, especially from anyone that can help me determine for certain what that Buffalo really is.
Machine20: I'm trying to remember where I got the information but I have notes I made at the time (4 years ago I think) that say that the 1921 has a distinctive hair braid and feather shape. I'll have to dig around more to find out where I got that from..
BStrauss3: Any idea where I could track down this information? As I said above I'm virtually certain it is a 1921. The big deal is if it is an "S" or not as it makes a big difference on value.
Snowman24: Yeah, that got a LOT of use. My Great Aunt died recently and she was in her 90s. As the only coin collector in the family she gave me her small collection of coins (20 or so) she got from her grandfather (so my Great Great Grandfather). Apparently he ran a bar or restaurant in New York State in the 1800s and these were some of the coins he saved. Among the more interesting finds was an 1802 Large Cent (only in G to F condition, but hey, it is the oldest US coin in my collection!) and an 1864 2 Cent piece in AU condition.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5828 Posts |
Its a 1920, not a 1921 (sorry :P). Its 1920 that has the different braid, not the 1921.
If you use a mixture of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide the whole coin gets "acid dated", it works. Works for silver coins, too. Not too sure about copper though!
get a cup, and put the coin in date side up. Pour in two parts vinegar and one part hydrogen peroxide. If its silver, wait 24 hours and if needed change the mixture (or is it solution?). If its not silver, wait 3-6 hours and it should be done
Edited by ChildOfTheWheat
07/12/2016 1:16 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
968 Posts |
Are you saying this post is incorrect? Because I think that is where I got the information from. It has the hair detail that I think is unique to 1921. https://goccf.com/t/96532Edit: Here is the image from that post to save people some time  Edited by Saruma
07/12/2016 2:08 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8516 Posts |
Quote:
and an 1864 2 Cent piece in AU condition. Did you check for large or small motto ? Oregon coin geek.....*** GO BEAVS ! ! ! ***
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5828 Posts |
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It has the hair detail that I think is unique to 1921. I am 99.99999999% this is not a 1921 S. Sorry, but look at the date. No way. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Looks like 1928 to me as well. So why not just do the deed?  |
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Moderator
United States
188213 Posts |
Quote:
So why not just do the deed?  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
968 Posts |
Since acid or peroxide is a last resort, let me ask a different question. I live in the Los Angeles area and I see that ANA has two shows coming up later this summer where they say they have a grader at the show. Sending this coin in would cost too much because of the outrageous return postage they want ($22 from what I can tell on their website, this is in addition to the grading fee). Does anyone know if this means the grader does it on the spot for their basic fee ($15 I think)? I'd be willing to spend that to find out, but not what would amount to $40 or more with postage to there, postage back, and grading fee because it is unlikely to be worth a whole lot more than that even if it turned out to be a 1921S, and if it isn't I'd really be in the hole. If cheap on the spot identification and grading at a show isn't realistic then I may as well let it go for a caustic swim! I'm going to go ahead and do this for the Shield. I'll post the results when I have some! |
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Moderator
United States
188213 Posts |
That sounds like a sensible option.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5828 Posts |
OP's coin is in the middle... Its NOT a 1921 S!  |
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Replies: 21 / Views: 2,547 |
Posted 07/12/2016 08:52 am
