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Replies: 8 / Views: 1,908 |
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Valued Member
United States
441 Posts |
See pics. The "LIBERTY" shot was taken with an SK Componon S reversed on an Pentax auto bellows. The date was taken with a 10X on an RMS adapter. Would going to a 5x objective be better? Thoughts?
Do you see any doubling here? There are some chips and cracks on the reverse, but I'm having a difficult time getting in close enough to get a decent pic or ID what variation it may be? Ideas?  I've seen other pics at Copper Coins and Wexlers taken where the shot is taken "LIBE" then another shot at "ERTY". Is that being done via microscopes, regular lenses, or RMS objectives? Those of you with posts there, I'd be interested to hear how you got the shots with such good resolution and lighting.
Bottom line, what's the best and easiest way to go to get in real close on the letters, numbers, and chips/die markers....enlarger lens, macro lenses or RMS objectives? Whatever anyone is using, I'm interested in hearing and seeing what works best.
Lastly, I'm using an SZ4 with 15x eyepieces to examine coins. I have a crude capability to take pics through the eyepiece with my 1000d with an adapter, but it doens't do a very good job.
Would it be advisable to junk the obsolete B&L and pick up something more modern/newer in the $150-300 range specifically used for coins/hobbies at AmScope in a 10x to 30x range with picture capability? What do you guys use? Thanks in advance.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6370 Posts |
I see no doubling, but what you're using for photos is just fine. Spectacular pictures!
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Valued Member
 United States
441 Posts |
TypeCoin971793...appreciate the feedback...thanks.
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
I agree,I see no doubling and your pics look great. John1 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
9395 Posts |
For maximum sharpness, I'd use a 10x microscope objective, with focus stacking, since the depth of field is so shallow.
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Valued Member
 United States
441 Posts |
Quote: pepactonius wrote: For maximum sharpness, I'd use a 10x microscope objective, with focus stacking, since the depth of field is so shallow. Yep, I've seen alot of photos here that you, Ray, and others have stacked. Most impressive. I haven't delved into that world yet....not sure if I have the patience or knack for it 
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
andy here is doubling on a Canadian toonie. I will fix up my lighting later.  
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Quote: Yep, I've seen alot of photos here that you, Ray, and others have stacked. Most impressive.
I haven't delved into that world yet....not sure if I have the patience or knack for it Andy...the pics look good. Next step is focus stacking. It's actually pretty easy to do, so when you're ready we can walk you through the process. First steps will be using CZP, so do a search for CombineZP and download the code. Taking the pics is pretty easy, and you can start with manual focusing, probably 4-5 shots in the stack.
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Valued Member
 United States
441 Posts |
Quote: Next step is focus stacking. It's actually pretty easy to do, so when you're ready we can walk you through the process. First steps will be using CZP, so do a search for CombineZP and download the code. Taking the pics is pretty easy, and you can start with manual focusing, probably 4-5 shots in the stack.
Ray, If I want to jump right in to the stacking world, would it be prudent to pickup an XYZ linear stage to help with the incremental moves needed to get equivalent/accurate stack slices?
I was also considering a goniometer section/stage to use with the XYZ stage to get the proper coin tilt sometimes needed to get coin topography fully lit for pics, particulary with proof and super lusterous coins.
I'm having issues in LiveView now with trying to get proof-like LSC's to come out like proofs vs. flat with dark areas.
Ultimately, I would only be working with coins with a max size of 40.6mm (ASE's). Would it be better to get a 40mm or 60mm setup?
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Replies: 8 / Views: 1,908 |
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