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1979 D Nickel Possible DDR

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Newbie234's Avatar
United States
1386 Posts
 Posted 01/17/2017  1:05 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Newbie234 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
This was actually one of my second time around coins. I can't believe I didn't notice this the first time,But to me it looks like it might be a true DDR.Thanks for looking and as always any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

1979-D-Nickel-Possible-DDR

1979-D-Nickel-Possible-DDR

1979-D-Nickel-Possible-DDR

1979-D-Nickel-Possible-DDR

1979-D-Nickel-Possible-DDR

1979-D-Nickel-Possible-DDR

1979-D-Nickel-Possible-DDR
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oldmike's Avatar
Canada
891 Posts
 Posted 01/17/2017  1:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add oldmike to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
My guess would be a worn out die, but I have been wrong before
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Newbie234's Avatar
United States
1386 Posts
 Posted 01/17/2017  1:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Newbie234 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you. I know the pictures don't really show it very well, But the letters seem to be squared off onto the letters below.
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United States
5193 Posts
 Posted 01/17/2017  2:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add uruman to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Looks MD ( Machine Doubling) to me.
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coop's Avatar
United States
62064 Posts
 Posted 01/17/2017  2:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It is machine damage after the strike. The obverse looks like circulation wear was affected the dies as well. Note the 'E' on CENTS? That is heavy die wear. So a lot going on, but no premium for any of this. But now you know what it is.

Here is a link that will help you to identify where the usual hub doubling appears on nickels. It will help you see what to look for.
http://goccf.com/t/257616
That will your searching.
Edited by coop
01/18/2017 12:05 pm
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Newbie234's Avatar
United States
1386 Posts
 Posted 01/17/2017  2:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Newbie234 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I do. Just looked different to me.Lord knows I've had plenty of MD's. This one just seemed different to me!But I think I have a few nickel clashes (although very faint and or small) I'll post tomorrow!
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Dustin6's Avatar
United States
3516 Posts
 Posted 01/17/2017  6:16 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dustin6 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
MD...
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Newbie234's Avatar
United States
1386 Posts
 Posted 01/18/2017  3:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Newbie234 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Coop, I appreciate the help very informative. A question if I may. The pictures in your link look like fairly uncirculated coins. How would if any of the doubling change over decades in circulation? Some of those coins the doubling looked very faint. Thanks for your time!
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coop's Avatar
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62064 Posts
 Posted 01/19/2017  03:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Most of the images are probably proof coins on the nickels. I like the 1960-1964 proof cents and nickels the most. They look so sweet and are real cheap to by in rolls on ebay. I prefer to by the ones in the original cello. The ones in tubes are pretty much searched. So I still with rolls of 40 (5c) 50 (1c) still in the cello. They don't come up that often. So I watch for these with a search feature on ebay. But back to your question: The coin tend to flatten in circulation. So the edges of the rims and tops of the devices roll over. The Machine Doubling is often at a different direction on the nickels than the hub doubled examples. Even the ones I posted are too minor for listings. (they have to draw the line somewhere) But what does affect hub doubled examples is die wear. On the later die states the digits/devices weaker. Sometimes may not be seen on the outside edge devices, but still seen on central devices. So the earlier the die state for coins to searching, the better examples you will find. (Proof coins are usually struck twice and the dies are only used for 3,000 coin 6,000 strikes) So being a better die state connoisseur I prefer the proof coins, but without the fake heavy cameos that the current proof coins have. (The cameo often hide the hub doubling) I guess I'm picky. But I learned a long time ago that a BU Coin often brings 10X the value of a circulated example. My first variety was a cent 1956-D RPM. I was told the coin was worth $2.50 but in BU it was a $25 coin. so I changed from circulated coins to BU rolls after that. I bought at coins show what I could get in rolls tubes as many as I could get. After a couple of years I have bought out all I could get at that time. Now, it Proof coins or circulated coinage.
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