Most of the images are probably proof coins on the nickels. I like the 1960-1964 proof cents and nickels the most. They look so sweet and are real cheap to by in rolls on
ebay. I prefer to by the ones in the original cello. The ones in tubes are pretty much searched. So I still with rolls of 40 (5c) 50 (1c) still in the cello. They don't come up that often. So I watch for these with a search feature on
ebay. But back to your question: The coin tend to flatten in circulation. So the edges of the rims and tops of the devices roll over. The
Machine Doubling is often at a different direction on the nickels than the hub doubled examples. Even the ones I posted are too minor for listings. (they have to draw the line somewhere) But what does affect hub doubled examples is die wear. On the later die states the digits/devices weaker. Sometimes may not be seen on the outside edge devices, but still seen on central devices. So the earlier the die state for coins to searching, the better examples you will find. (Proof coins are usually struck twice and the dies are only used for 3,000 coin 6,000 strikes) So being a better die state connoisseur I prefer the proof coins, but without the fake heavy cameos that the current proof coins have. (The cameo often hide the hub doubling) I guess I'm picky. But I learned a long time ago that a BU Coin often brings 10X the value of a circulated example. My first variety was a cent 1956-D RPM. I was told the coin was worth $2.50 but in BU it was a $25 coin. so I changed from circulated coins to BU rolls after that. I bought at coins show what I could get in rolls tubes as many as I could get. After a couple of years I have bought out all I could get at that time. Now, it Proof coins or circulated coinage.