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"Preserving" Red Lincolns

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USArmyParatrooper's Avatar
United States
1283 Posts
 Posted 04/15/2008  11:19 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add USArmyParatrooper to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
After being extremely unhappy with my cheaply made, Whitman Classic album I started trying to decide between Dansco and Intercept. Today I chose Dansco and picked up an 8100 for my Lincolns.

I want to transfer my cents from the Whitman to the Dansco, but I also want to "clean" (not in the literal sense) my BU red Lincolns before I transfer them over. Basically if there's any surface oil or other contaminants I want to remove it. I took extreme care in cherry picking spotless reds and I need them to be squeaky clean so they don't turn brown.

Here's an idea I have and tell me if I'm going overboard. Pick up some acetone, cotton swabs, latex cloves and a gallon of distilled water. Swab them with acetone, rinse them in distilled water, pat dry with a towel, and then insert them in the Dansco after they've air dried some more.

Is there any potential problems with this method, or is there another you might recommend?

Thanks for any comments.


Sean
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ceaton's Avatar
United States
1179 Posts
 Posted 04/16/2008  12:37 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ceaton to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Sounds like a solid plan to me. I dont see any harm in what you plan on doing.
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j_h_s's Avatar
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1934 Posts
 Posted 04/16/2008  06:16 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add j_h_s to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I dont think you should expose your coins to any type of liquid. Dry clean them if you must.
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arthrene's Avatar
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1713 Posts
 Posted 04/16/2008  06:45 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add arthrene to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you must use acetone, which I wouldn't unless you absolutely must, I wouldn't suggest using cotton swaps. These could create surface scratches on the coins. A simple dip would do the trick.
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Vaslin's Avatar
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914 Posts
 Posted 04/16/2008  09:11 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Vaslin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The water isn't going to do anything for you.

Place in acetone.
Swish around.
Pull it out.
It dries almost immediately.

Now Coppercoins and I like Xylene better than acetone for lincolns. Do a search and find the thread where he responded.
Edited by Vaslin
04/16/2008 09:12 am
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eaglefoot's Avatar
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6326 Posts
 Posted 04/16/2008  09:15 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add eaglefoot to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Sounds like a "scary endeavor" to me !......
Edited by eaglefoot
04/16/2008 09:16 am
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 Posted 04/16/2008  09:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jim1953 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Usap, I agree with Vaslin. I use acetone on my run of the mill stuff, but on good coins (and only if you must) I would go with Xylene.

Jim
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 Posted 04/16/2008  10:39 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would leave well enough alone. The more you handle a coin the more chances you have of scratching, rubbing, dropping, etc them. Why bother. I've had coins in Whitman Classic Albums for as long as they have been around. No problems at all. I think I've explained this many times. Just put each one in a zip lock plastic bag and push out as much air as possible, then zip closed. I've been doing this for many, many years and see absolutely no difference in any coins. A little tiring when you want to add or change a coin but well worth it. Now with over 100 such albums I think I spend more on zip lock bags than coins some times. Just kidding. They are cheap.
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 Posted 04/16/2008  10:51 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Usap, I agree with Vaslin. I use acetone on my run of the mill stuff, but on good coins (and only if you must) I would go with Xylene.
Jim


Note there are 3 different types of Xylene. Ortho-Xylene, Meta-Xylene and Para-Xylene. Care should be taken in deciding which one to purchase and use. To much exposure to some can create a health problem and in some instances where a person is susceptable to headaches, some of these can be dangerous.
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biokemist6's Avatar
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12437 Posts
 Posted 04/16/2008  11:24 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add biokemist6 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Any commercial grade xylene you will find will be a mixture of the ortho, meta, para isomers and will be labeled as Xylenes or Xylenes, mixed with Ethylbenzene. Ethylbenzene is a byproduct of the production of xylenes and is very similar chemically. Commercial xylene will contain 10-50% ethylbenzene. Further refining the xylene to separate the isomers adds quite a bit of cost to the solvent. The reason why xylene is sometimes preferable to acetone is the fact that xylene is a pure hydrocarbon(only containing hydrogen and carbon) while acetone has an oxygen component and has the potential to be more reactive. Xylene is not a chemical to be taken lightly though as it can cause great harm to health if used improperly. If used properly away from any ignition source and in a well ventilated area it can be reasonably safe to use.
Edited by biokemist6
04/16/2008 11:26 am
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BadThad's Avatar
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19931 Posts
 Posted 04/16/2008  11:37 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
biokemist6 has spelled it out....nice job.

Now, as far as RD Lincolns....I would not choose xylenes as a "preservation" liquid. I simply rinse mine with acetone because it will remove traces of water on the surface. Water is insoluble in xylenes (for the most part) and xylenes are a much stronger organic solvent....not necessary for a clean BU coin.

Just rinse them in acetone and put them into an air-free environment. I chose to use airtite containers over all the commercial albums, they don't seem to offer enough protection IMO.

Here's my procedure for assuring my Lincoln's NEVER change:

http://www.coincommunity.com/forum/...PIC_ID=20377
Lincoln Cent Lover!
VERDI-CARE™ INVENTOR
https://verdi.care/
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USArmyParatrooper's Avatar
United States
1283 Posts
 Posted 04/16/2008  9:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add USArmyParatrooper to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks Badthad and the rest of you for your input. BadThat, I'm worried that, even though acetone evaborates quickly, there will still be an extremely thin trace of "dry" acetone on the surface. Have you had experience with acetone rince, air dry, and then LONG term storage?
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BadThad's Avatar
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19931 Posts
 Posted 04/16/2008  10:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well, I must say that I do use lab reagent grade acetone. Now, I think they use something like ethyl acetate in nail polish remover, so you have to watch for that. You need pure acetone!

Pure acetone will NOT ever leave even a molecule on the surface once it's dry. There's no such thing as "dried acetone", it's an extremely volatile organic molecule....POOF....IT'S GONE....almost instantly. Air drying would defeat the purpose! That would allow water (from air humidity) to recollect on the surface (not to mention other contaminants).

Lincoln Cent Lover!
VERDI-CARE™ INVENTOR
https://verdi.care/
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Amazon99's Avatar
United States
2443 Posts
 Posted 04/16/2008  11:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Amazon99 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would leave them alone, but if you must no cotton swab!
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