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1965 Philadelphia Jefferson Nickel Doubled Die Obverse .

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307 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2017  12:51 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add centavo69 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
i found this 1965 philadelphia Jefferson nickel doubled die obverse ... I hope the experts see what I see this time ...
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
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coop's Avatar
United States
62064 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2017  1:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Did you note the flow lines on the die on the obverse of you coin? (below the '5' on the date) That is a sign of extreme die wear. So what you are on the motto is another aspect of heavy die wear. It is called die wear. This happens as the die get old from use. The dies pushing the metal of the planchet, causes the dies to wear out. This is not a fast process, but a slow process. Die flow starts to show on dies as they reach the LDS (Late Die State) Get even stronger when the dies move into the VLDS (Very Late Die State). The coins show the story. But the better looking coins are from the EDS (Early Die State) But just a few of them happen before the die starts to age. Note a chart comprised on the number of coins per die states:
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
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307 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2017  3:40 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add centavo69 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
i have a question mr COOP ? I see some separation on some letters ... is that part of the deterioration of the coin too ^?
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
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coop's Avatar
United States
62064 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2017  4:40 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Sometimes you can see lines on the tops of the devices. Most of the time it is coin contact that alters them. But on some proof coin (nickel) you can see them from the striking process:
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
That is probably from die wear, but proof coins are only used for 6,000 strikes.
On business strike coins you can see the lines from incuse devices that the MD slides a bit before the strike. This is call Striation lines:
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
On raised devices we see these also:
1965-Philadelphia-Jefferson-Nickel-Doubled-Die-Obverse-.
These lines are very fine. It is caused by the roughness of the metal slid. If you took some soft butter, you could take a pairing knife and lightly skim it on the top of the butter. This will leave a copy of the edge of the knife on the butter. (probably used in forensic tests)
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CoinMasters's Avatar
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5964 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2017  10:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinMasters to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I see some separation on some letters ... is that part of the deterioration of the coin too ^?

No, your coin shows MD and die wear.

Centavo69, I think you probably understand that everything on a die comes out opposite on a coin. Everything raised on a die comes out recessed on a coin. Everything recessed on a die comes out raised on a coin. I think you understand all that, it's pretty basic.
If you take that one step farther, you will realize wear on a die adds recess to a die. The wear recess on a die becomes raised on a coin. It's often mistakenly thought to be doubling. There are several ways to tell "die wear doubling" from a Doubled Die. The "die wear doubling" on a coin is usually sloppier and raised very little when compared to the Doubled Die.
Machine Doubling (MD) AKA Strike Doubling, is also often mistaken to be a Doubled Die. It is caused by unintentional extra movement of the die at the time of the strike. The die first strikes the coin leaving perfect devices, then unintentionally moves and alters the devices. Depending on the direction of the unintentional movement the altered devices can be smashed flat at their edges (usually with striation lines) or the devices can come out with as little as lines in them from just a "kiss movement". This phony "doubling" can be differentiated from the Doubled Die by being not as tall and by being part of the original device. The Doubled Die is not part of the original device, it is alongside it. Understand that, and you will understand Reduced Devices. Take the time to understand these three paragraphs, I think they should help you tremendously.
Edited by CoinMasters
10/11/2017 11:08 pm
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Willburton's Avatar
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2558 Posts
 Posted 10/12/2017  09:09 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Willburton to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Centavo, what I do is go to doubleddie.com,find the kind of coin you have, click that then the year will come up. If you don't see the year of you're coin it's not a DDO / DDR (most likely). Also if you don't find the exact coin you're holding on the list of dd coins it's not one either. Unless it's a new find and they're aren't a lot of those out there. There will be markers on you're coin that match the one you see there if it is a genuine dd.
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