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Starting A SLQ Set. Any Advice?

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ddubs's Avatar
United States
75 Posts
 Posted 12/18/2017  5:27 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add ddubs to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I have been collecting more seriously the last two years. I have specialized in toned Morgans and have started making descent money with them. It has allowed me some extra money to broaden my horizons. I started a Peace dollar set, a Type Set, and now I am starting a Standing Liberty quarter set. So far I have a 1917 type 2 PCGS MS63FH and a raw 1928 which I believe is in ms 64 FH. I am still educating myself on the series. I am leaning towards a date set, which from what I've learned consists of a coin from each year plus both types. Any advice? Should I stick with graded coins? I really am more interested in uncirculated coins though that won't happen with the 1916. Looking for some help with direction, an approach to attack this, or help running into any pitfalls. I thought this this post might also help other novice to intermediate collectors that are interested in the series. So much knowledge here on the forum that I would be crazy to not ask for advice.

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Valued Member
United States
275 Posts
 Posted 12/18/2017  5:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dlangs56 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I can't help with the uncirculated side of things, but I put together a circulated set earlier this year and my best advice there would be to pick a high enough target grade to where you can live with the early date examples. I am breaking apart the set now, mainly to fund another one, but I was willing to do so because I just didn't like having coins that were really difficult to see what year it is.

Good luck and have fun!
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moxking's Avatar
United States
17900 Posts
 Posted 12/18/2017  8:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add moxking to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you want an uncirculated set, even if the 16 would not be, you certainly want to stay with NGC or PCGS.

Study the references for those two TPG's graded examples. Even if some inaccuracies may exist because of re-grades they are still very helpful.

Remember that FH is not always an indication of a strong strike. Many FH are still missing rivets on the shield and centers of Liberty's garb. Check for those too for a truly strong strike. Strong obverse strikes usually indicate strong reverse strike too.

Decide, based on your monetary comfort level, the best possible grade you can afford, determine those grades and probable price range, and work on your set from that want list.
Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2017  10:09 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Far, far from an easy set to complete in any decent grade. So many of them in high grades are in the thousands of dollars.
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Coinfrog's Avatar
United States
94367 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2017  3:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Coinfrog to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
That's for sure. Can you give us even a vague idea of what your budget might be over, say, the next five years?
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acloco's Avatar
United States
3540 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2017  4:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add acloco to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Superb choice of series to collect.

IMHO, second or tied for first place with Buffalo nickels, THE hardest series to collect. Why? Not just type I, II, III strike quality issues, but within the same year, mint to mint peculiarities. Buffalo nickels are the same problem for the collector.


BUT, believe you have picked a GREAT time to start this endeavor. This IS a buyer's market. Also my opinion, posted prices are a good starting point and may be negotiated from there.

Set a grade goal, then review current price guide and RECENT auction prices. You may or may not let today's market determine your grade (grade = $$$$$$) level, but something that should be considered before attempting this series at or above XF/AU or AU FH and above.
Valued Member
Benja's Avatar
United States
186 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2017  4:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Benja to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you're getting a raw coin, be careful. It's really easy to make SLQs look uncirculated in the photos.
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ddubs's Avatar
United States
75 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2017  5:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ddubs to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for the great advice so far. I really am leaning to starting with a date set. I think it would be a good start and then I could expand from there. I finished my Morgan date set with most of it in high grade. I was ok with a few coins being circulated. I think I will take the same approach here. It is a pretty coin.
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ddubs's Avatar
United States
75 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2017  5:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ddubs to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Oh and budget will probably be a couple thousand a year on this set with an odd large purchase here and there.
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afcop13's Avatar
United States
1409 Posts
 Posted 12/20/2017  09:31 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add afcop13 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I have been working on a VF and above set for a couple of years (ok - 7-8 yrs). I did take about 3 yrs off, but finding coins that are appealing to the eye, and in my budget hasn't worked so great online mainly due to shady photography, so I usually end up only buying in person at large shows such as FUN in Tampa this Jan. I'm headed to that show this year hoping to fill my 1919-D and 1924-S slots with VF or better coins at reasonable prices.

Congrats on starting your quest, SLQ's are my favorite design. I do have a 1916, but it is an ANACS AG-03 that I pulled from a $10 lot of SLQs on ebay in 2010. I actually ended up getting 2 dateless SLQ's in that manner. At the time, there was a seller in CA who continuously had $10 lots, and they were apparently unsearched. I pulled many good dates from those, as did Johnny54321. The other 1916 dateless graded PO-1 and I flipped it for a few hundred bucks. ANACS graded both based on distinguishing characteristics you can use to determine if a dateless type 1 is indeed a 1916. There are some old threads that go into great detail on that here on the site. I doubt I'll ever pull the trigger for a 1916 in VF or better, but will be following your quest as you add coins! Good luck!
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Andrew99's Avatar
United States
1533 Posts
 Posted 12/20/2017  4:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Andrew99 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I finished an AU-58 set this year. I love that grade for this coin, though I do have a few mint state coins. The more expensive ones like the 23-S, 16, 18/17, 21, you will not be able to find unslabbed in high grade anyway, so get slabbed when you can but don't pass on nice raw coins. The toughest high grade coin is the 1919-D. Its tougher than the 16 or the 21.
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Coinfrog's Avatar
United States
94367 Posts
 Posted 12/20/2017  4:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Coinfrog to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Andrew - Perhaps you could start a new thread and share some of these with us. I know I'd like to see them!

Back to the original thread.
Edited by Coinfrog
12/20/2017 4:57 pm
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Jon Brand's Avatar
United States
1023 Posts
 Posted 12/21/2017  12:11 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jon Brand to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yep! we love pictures
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 12/21/2017  10:50 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The only thing I can add is that - in my personal opinion - SLQ's are among the most beautiful of issues in high AU condition and Circulation Cameo. That makes these a very accessible set even if one's budget does not extend to MS-FH examples.
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