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 Replies: 8 / Views: 5,963 |
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Valued Member
United States
245 Posts |
OK, I think I have all the basic requirements down. Just thought I'd run it by you guys before I actualy started building. Here is my list:
1. we are focusing on objects the size of a dime to the size of a silver dollar, give or take a bit.
2. Focal length (or distance from lens at least) should be adjustable from 0 (for folks fortunate enough to have cameras that good) to roughly 12 inches.
3. Sturdy base large enough to suport the average decent camera.
4. Camera mount and suport sturdy enough to support the weight of the camera, and flexible enough to get the camera lens centered over the coin.
5. Level for leveling both the base and camera would be nice.
Anyone got any other ideas for nifty things to add?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1173 Posts |
Sounds to me as though you've got the most important parts to it. Sturdy enough to hold your equipment; and with enough adjustment to ensure your lens is parallel with the coin! Add some light, and you are off to the races. :o)
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
655 Posts |
Yep, that's all the main parts. I have a ball and socket for the coin to sit on, so I can tilt the coin if needs be. Not really a requirement but it might be nifty to have one built into the stand?
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Valued Member
 United States
245 Posts |
Learjet,
I had thought about that, but wouldn't tilting the camera accomplish the same thing? I'm a woodworker also, so I have a sack full of knobs with bolts that I use to make jigs. I think the bolts in them are 1/4 - 20 thread, but if not, they can be replaced with one. That way the coin sits safely flat. I'm assuming that there is no set degree amount for any coin, as every coin is unique?
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
JohnAP, tilting things is more about bringing out color than anything else. I'd go Learjet's way of tilting the coin before the camera - since we want a camera mount as unshakable as possible first and foremost, and the coin mount will be holding a lot less weight than the camera mount, tilt the coin and not the camera. One direction would suffice if you don't want to to a ball mount - you can rotate the coin if necessary.
Another consideration - folks with cameras "that good" start at about 12" and work from there. My dear departed dSLR rig wouldn't fit a whole Morgan into the field at closer than 15". Were it up to me, I'd plan on 18". This will allow you to play with coin mounting methods - a sharply-focused silver coin which is stood off a black felt background makes for a truly wonderful picture.
I've heard of a couple people doing things with the racks of old drill presses....
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Valued Member
United States
245 Posts |
SuperDave. Thanks for the info.  I have an old mechanics mirror that has a ball mount, I'll see what I can do with that. And I'll also plan on making the post longer. My basic concept is to use two pieces of 3/4" MDF for the base, one 18X18, the other somewhat smaller sandwiched together (1 1/2" total thickness). I think that would be more than enough weight for even the heaviest digital camera. Aluminum mounting arm for the camera, bent into an "S" shape. Layered MDF slotted for the aluminum camera mounting arm. MDF platform for the coin, now mounted on the old mechanics mirror base.....  . I have the mounting arm laid out, I just need to drill, cut, and bend it. Of course there will be a thin rubber cushion to protect the camera base. I'll post pics as I progress! Thanks again for all your help, and bountiful knowledge you so freely share! |
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Valued Member
United States
245 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
527 Posts |
This is the photo stand I built out of some aluminum I had. The camera attaches to the top where the bolt is. The platform at the bottom is large to compensate for the weight of the camera. It is 8" wide and 15" tall. The black object is a 3" rubber cap for ABS sewer pipe. I place my coins on it for a black background, but the bonus is, it is concave. when the coin is in the center it is level, if I move it to one side or the other it sets the coin on an angle so I can accent color or details. This also makes centering the coin in the lens easier, I can move the whole rubber cap without touching the coin. When I need to get closer to the coin, I just place a few books or CD cases under the rubber cap. So far I have just used regular room lighting, but I will be buying two goose neck lamps to set on each side of this stand as soon as I get my next paycheck.   Here is a picture I took on it. Using my Canon Powershot A75  |
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
655 Posts |
What a simple yet brilliant idea with the rubber cap. I would never have thought of that.
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Replies: 8 / Views: 5,963 |
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Posted 05/17/2008 01:46 am
