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 Replies: 7 / Views: 3,117 |
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Valued Member
Canada
56 Posts |
Sorry if these are really uneducated questions, I am trying to learn. So grandpa had a bunch of coins, I assume graded, in the 60s and 70s and then he put them in his secret room I guess. I am sure the tarnish has happened since the grading, so I am left wondering. How much does the tarnish take away from the original grade, if you know what I mean? And why would some not tarnish at all, same spot, same conditions? Thanks for any help, you all have been outstanding helping me so far and I greatly appreciate it!     |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
1461 Posts |
That's a tough question and it depends on the toning. I personally like to see coins graded purely on technical merit and not be net graded for any reason. Let the coin be penalized on the "ugly" factor in a transaction. In theory tarnish is not wear or a result of circulation...Saying that, I think all grading companies will penalize for eye appeal at very high grades. Honestly I've seen it go both ways with all graders. To me the spots on your coins are an eye appeal issue not a grade issue and the transnational coin value would likely suffer. The 52 looks to be a very conservative grade.
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Valued Member
 Canada
56 Posts |
Thanks for the reply! Ya I noticed when I was looking at grading and the different grades that it mostly revolved around high point, wear, etc. Never really said much about appearance. I did figure that if you had 2 coins, graded the same, one nice and silvery and the other dark and "ugly" looking, the pretty one would get more.
What would you feel the 52 would be? I have probably 50 of these and I'm wondering if I should get them re evaluated or not?
Thanks again!!
Edited by ralfsnart
04/17/2018 6:27 pm
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Valued Member
Canada
291 Posts |
Professional Grading and selling on the low-end costs about $12 a coin (although the companies have discounts for 50 or 100 + coins). The 1952 NWL dollar is, according to trends, worth $31 in VF, $32.5 in EF and $35 in AU at retail prices. (see: http://www.coinsandcanada.com/coins...r-1937-1952)Therefore the difference in grading, is not worth the certification costs between grades. But any marked MS or with special varieties, or better dates, might be worth certifying. |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
955 Posts |
I suggest you just take your time , learn the in and outs of this hobby . Research everything (above mentioned site is a good place to start), ask questions , post pic's . In order to get the full value of whatever you have you have to "know" what you have . Also this forum will educate you in ways you can't imagine  And...  |
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
5591 Posts |
I wouldn't pay to have any of them certified as the cost is prohibitive and would be a huge chuck of any future value, even with any discount. The carbon spots on the coins (not the actual toning) came from a sneeze or other impurity hitting the coin and the spots can/will affect grading by certain companies that place "eye appeal" high on their list. Keep the coins as they are, with your grandfather's handwriting and then give some of them to your kids or grandkids
Edited by okiecoiner
04/18/2018 08:05 am
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Valued Member
Canada
56 Posts |
Thanks for all the info guys!! I will look into them as much as I can but I only have a 33% stake in this collection and the other 66% want to liquidate this year sometime and they wont split it up ( mom and sister)   I am learning though :). I found 2 no design 1950 50 cent pieces in his "loose pile" last night :D Edited by ralfsnart
04/18/2018 08:16 am
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
1461 Posts |
Many people post here to get a grade opinion. If you post some of what you feel are better grades and better years with good individual pictures (obv & rev), you'll get a pretty good idea of the grade and why.
Edited by TheCoinHunter
04/18/2018 11:21 am
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Replies: 7 / Views: 3,117 |
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Posted 04/17/2018 6:27 pm
