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 Replies: 10 / Views: 1,505 |
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Valued Member
United States
379 Posts |
hello all
I prefer modern world gold and platinum coins. My question is this... faced with several, or perhaps even only one 69 graded coin(s), vs. more common 70 graded coins? I have always, perhaps in error, sought to buy the highest grade coin possible, even if in volume they are more numerous than say, a 69 graded coin of the same year/make, etc.
fictional example... a 1984 isle of man angel gold coin in a pf-70 condition, of which there are 100 of. yet, there is only 1 or 2 of these same coins in a pf-69 condition. which one would you go for?
just curious. myself, as I said, always go for the highest graded condition coin, even if the same lower graded coin at a much lower population exists.
I got a feeling I might be in error. Your thoughts?
sincerely... Stephen Edited by 4504
06/07/2018 01:09 am
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
Almost impossible to pick the difference between MS69 and MS70 coins, from on screen pictures. Even harder still, if the coins pictured are in slabs.
With modern coins, the Mints around the World try very hard with their top shelf products, when it comes to aiming at perfection.
Usually, they succeed.
That is why for some releases at least, MS70 is far more common than MS69. You had better believe the TPGraders' opinions, irrespective if you agree or not, because like I said, it is almost impossible to pick differences in quality from on screen pictures.
Actually, I aim for early 20th Century proofs instead, such as the British Proof sets of 1902, 1911, 1927 and 1937. and some Maundy pieces, which have history and tradition attached. I have a 1937 Five Pounds and Two Pounds (5,501 struck).
They were made in far fewer numbers than modern proofs, and yet are not that much more relatively expensive to obtain.
Edited by sel_69l
06/07/2018 08:12 am
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Valued Member
 United States
379 Posts |
thanks sel for your reply, I do like the turn of the century coins myself but I just do not know that much about them to make an informed decision. however, one rule I have, I am sure I am error about this, is that I NEVER buy ANY UNCERTIFIED coins from China. if I cannot authenticate the coin through NGC or PCGS, I pass. I just do not trust China on uncertified coins and am suspicious of even their certified coins as they can be faked as well. please, no offense to China, but now why are they all over ebay right now? I have a difficult time believing that a dealer or someone in China sees a coin sold in the USA or other country, buy it, and then put it up for sale, uncertified. I am not saying I am right or even accurate about my opinion. then again, I am not the smartest investor... I was building a bike last year, ran out of 3/4" rear axle spacers and could not find any that would work from any source (dealer, hardware stores, etc.), so I took several silver Peace dollars I had inherited (20's?) and machined washers out of them, which worked PERFECTLY. So I am no mental giant or claim to be, I could have thrown away hundreds or thousands of dollars, but ignorance is bliss. (ok, I did look them up and they seemed to be worth little more than a few dollars each). I understand about putting your best foot forward as far as selling coins go, I was just wondering if lessor-graded coins (coins that graded less than a 70 but with fewer circulation numbers is always more valuable that higher graded coins that were churned out at higher mintage figures. ok, so I will never be a competent seller or buyer, I get that... |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2023 Posts |
If there are far more 70s than 69s, I go for the 70. The idea of owning perfection is obviously appealing (keeping in mind that even 70s can have flaws like spots or toning that weren't necessarily present at the time of grading/slabbing, in which case I return them), and a 70 will be easier to sell when it comes time for that.
The other way to think of it in a case like this is that the 70 doesn't carry a premium, but the 69 has a discount. This presumes that the 70s being so common that they would not carry a significant premium over the 69s. If the price spread is wide, it's a different question.
And that's my 3¢ (adjusted for inflation).
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
With modern coins, the Mints around the World try very hard with their top shelf products, when it comes to aiming at perfection.
Usually, they succeed.
That is why for some releases at least, MS70 is far more common than MS69. The main reason why 70s can look far more common is that with modern bullion even collectable bullion most of the submissions are bulk submissions. The reason why that matters is that a lot of bulk submitters now choose not to have 69s holdered, they just holder the 70s and sell everything else raw which means a lot of coins that would have been holdered as 69 or lower never get put into the pop reports. |
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Valued Member
United States
467 Posts |
For me personally, I would usually go for the 70 if I was buying a single coin. I would not consider the lower quantity as something that adds to the appeal. Rather than view it as only five specimens in 69 (example) versus 100 in 70-- I would view it as 105 specimens in 69 or 70...and always go with the higher grade.
However, if I was collecting the series, consistency could become a factor.
For instance if the series has 10 coins, and I have 9 of them in 69 and this coin was completing the run, I would pick the 69 over the 70.
So for me, appeal of the coin, then consistency, then when all other things equal, then I would go with the higher grade, even if more common.
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
@4504:
You are very unlikely to make a mistake, if you buy from dealers or public auctions that have an internationally recognized reputation.
Just keep all of the purchase records to prove provenance.
Under such circumstances, slabbbing is unnecessary.
Museums never bother with slabs.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
Museums never bother with slabs. That's not true. The Hungarian National Museum has not only had pieces slabbed but graded as well. The Smithsonian has had pieces slabbed. Regardless it's still a very bad comparison as museums gets their inventory loaned to them for free or donated for free. They don't have to worry about being ripped off when it's free Quote:
You are very unlikely to make a mistake, if you buy from dealers or public auctions that have an internationally recognized reputation.
Just keep all of the purchase records to prove provenance.
Under such circumstances, slabbbing is unnecessary. Also untrue. Basically nothing is auctioned raw anymore from the big houses so if something is thats a major red flag. As far as dealers just being a big name doesn't mean they won't hose |
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Moderator
 United States
54280 Posts |
Quote:
They don't have to worry about being ripped off when it's free But they might have to worry about authenticity. |
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
But they might have to worry about authenticity. That is true though generally anything they would accept is a well documented rarity. That said they do consult the necessary outside experts including the TPGs even if they don't end up with the coins graded and slabbed to confirm authenticity when necessary. |
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Valued Member
United States
493 Posts |
When it came to collecting 1 oz. silver panda's I so gave up on high grades.
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Replies: 10 / Views: 1,505 |
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Posted 06/07/2018 5:43 pm
