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Some will get rid of the original light soon. That helps the images get better quick and etc...
Yup.. No onboard lighting on the above, nor most of the time.. There are times I need to turn it on just enough to open up a shadow, but using it at all really flattens depth..Some will get rid of the original light soon. That helps the images get better quick and etc...
At the moment I'm using one of those Wally-World don't-stock-'em-in-store $5.87 gooseneck clip-on LED with diffusion disk jobbies that's like 3.5W and still insanely too bright cos I have it clipped on to one side of the base-back n goosed over to the other, which keeps everything pretty much in balance.. Have a piece of white T-shirt gumbanded snug over top of but not touching the diffusion disk. I then aim that through anywhere from two to four layers of Bounty white paper towels that're halfway between light and subject and am using a white envelope opposite side to reflect back onto subject, which creates my secondary lighting source without the use of any additional lights.. Works well for opening up the shadow areas most of the time.. Even with all that I still get hot spots, but pretty exclusive to unc / shiny copper.. No problems (usually) with coppers that're "broke in.."
The above stuff I did shoot a bit hot to try to highlight around the chips, which happened.. And the date/mm is just what the setup was at the time..
Swamp
EDIT: Bate,
Edited by da Swampster
07/03/2018 7:14 pm
07/03/2018 7:14 pm



















