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Replies: 31 / Views: 3,179 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Of all the large/small dated coins this is one of the easiest to tell. Note the first one has the 8 the same size as the 2. All the others havethe 8 looking almost to large. The small date has the 8 and the 2 the same size and almost to small for the 9. Bottom of 8 is lined up with the 2 on small date where on the large date the 8 is almost to large and is a little below the 2. As to telling the Copper ones from the Zinc with Copper plating, don't do the drop on a table test if the coins are of any value to you. There is supposed to be a difference in the sound of the two but if your old, hard of hearing, etc. that means nothing. Many, many people when they were kids played music so loud it messed up their hearing and that test will just have no effect. You could put one in a Butane Torch and if it melts, it was the Zinc with the Copper plating.  If not it may be that your torch is not hot enough.  I've repeated this test so often I would think the popsicle companies would send me a few free. Take any popsicle stick, 6 sided pencil, glue, flat table. Now balance the stick on the pencil. Place glue at the spot on the pencil of balance. (I say 6 sided standard pencil so it will not continue to roll of the table on you) Now place a 1983 or later coin on the far end of the stick and glue in place. Any coin placed on the opposite end will do one of two things. Balances means the second coin is also Copper plated Zinc. Drops down means the second coin is Copper. A reverse method is to place a pre 1982 coin on one end and glue in place. Now any coin placed on the other end will either balance = Copper or do nothing = Copper plated Zinc. If you use to much glue that could effect your results so if your carefull, you do not need glue. Note also excessively worn coins of pre 82 areas could effect this system as well as weighing them with an accurate scale. If you have access to a chem lab that Sulfuric Acid will melt the Copper coins completely and you will end up with Copper Sulfate and left to evaporate will give you a fantastic parallelogramic deep blue, simi clear crystal. However, I think that is against the law.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Quote: If you have access to a chem lab that Sulfuric Acid will melt the Copper coins completely and you will end up with Copper Sulfate and left to evaporate will give you a fantastic parallelogramic deep blue, simi clear crystal. However, I think that is against the law. No, the law specifies melting the cents, not dissolving them. Yes it is splitting hairs.
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Valued Member
 United States
227 Posts |
If they didn't want laws to be broken they should make them  less specific.  You ever notice that, All our laws are like code 142.23. Why not simplfy?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
580 Posts |
I can spot the large vs. small pretty easily now after a while practicing at it! I just look at the "2"...if it looks like a "Z" then it's a large date, but if it has the graceful curve heading towards the base, it's a small date. Now...if only I can spot the doubled ear lobe and beard on the 2006's... 
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Moderator
 United States
188440 Posts |
Determining Small Date v. Large Date... 1982-P&D? Easy!  1960-P&D? A little effort, but not really that difficult!  1970-S 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5318 Posts |
Quote:1970-S  Hehe...no kidding, but it all came into focus for me when I found my first SD just 6 months ago. When I saw it, I just knew right away.  Like Chuck once said, the difference is quite dramatic when you have a LD and SD side-by-side. I'm still amazed how a member here found one in circulation! 
Edited by KurtS 08/20/2008 4:26 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
580 Posts |
OK, I found a 70-S in a roll just yesterday and I stared at it with my loupe until my noggin' was achin'. From what I can tell, it is a large date, and the way I see it is that the end of the little loop inside the "9" is pointing down toward the mint mark. If the end had bent a little more and pointed instead at the "7" then it would probably be a small date. Right? No? Yes? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Something "D-O-O" economics... Sorry, got carried away there. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5318 Posts |
mklpatrick- Here's a good page on the SD/LD differences 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
580 Posts |
Good one, Kurt. Thanks as always.
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Moderator
 United States
188440 Posts |
Quote: Like Chuck once said, the difference is quite dramatic when you have a LD and SD side-by-side. Looking at the pictures of them together I can tell very easily. But every time someone posts an "is this a small date?" picture, it takes me a few minutes to be sure; and that is assuming it is a good photo. 
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Valued Member
 United States
227 Posts |
Anyone know how to determine Lg date Sm date on 1840 LG Cent?
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Moderator
 United States
188440 Posts |
Quote: Anyone know how to determine Lg date Sm date on 1840 LG Cent? This is out of my league. I find nothing in the 1840 Large Cent page, other than featured auctions mentioning Large Date. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5318 Posts |
Me too...I haven't a clue. However, popping over to Heritage, I see large dates and small dates listed for that year. I just don't know how to tell the difference.
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Valued Member
United States
417 Posts |
Quote: Determining Small Date v. Large Date...
1982-P&D? Easy! 1960-P&D? A little effort, but not really that difficult! 1970-S 1974 issues 
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Moderator
 United States
188440 Posts |
Quote:1974 issues  There are no spaces for any 1974 varieties in my Dansco, so they must not exist! 
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Replies: 31 / Views: 3,179 |