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 Replies: 30 / Views: 3,187 |
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Valued Member
United States
296 Posts |
I have read on a couple of websites that nic-a-date doesn't last and the restored date eventually disappears. Has anybody seen this happen?
I have quite a few dateless buffs I found CRH, nic-a-date sounds interesting but if it is temporary I don't want to waste my money.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1353 Posts |
I have used something similar named coin date 30 yrs ago.Still looks the same. It is similar to nic a date.
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Valued Member
United States
92 Posts |
There are several people who sell a LOT of these "chemically altered" coins on ebay and seem to be pretty successful at it. The biggest seller is a guy in Utah calles "Sweetwatercoins". He goes for weeks without selling any and then sells upwards of 100 all at once. Probably the best one in terms of quality is a guy who goes by "buffaloreincarnations". Only sells about a dozen per week but, as I said, they're very nice. Another guy who goes by "weatherbuff2" has good quality but frequently only restores the date. Anyway - my point in telling you all this is that these guys get GOOD prices for these nickels, so anyone who says there's no money in it might not have looked at these guys. They're getting between $20 and $60 for the keys and $5 - $15 for the others |
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
It is tons of fun. Like opening a present. I've seen restored 18/7-D's go for $400-500.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Valued Member
United States
369 Posts |
I used vinegar on dateless Buffalos a while back. All came through clear enough except for three. One I know without the date to be 1913 Type 1, another looks like 1913 Type 2. But tonight I looked again and I'm pretty sure the third is a 1913 D Type 2. I'm going to take it to my dealer soon and see if he can tell for sure. Two questions, though. Would a really worn, barely readable date Buffalo grade "good?" If so, that's $100 Red Book, $125 Coin Prices Magazine! Second, if it is a 1913D Type 2, would you sell it or put it in your Buffalo nickel album you just started? Thanks |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12437 Posts |
Quote:
Would a really worn, barely readable date Buffalo grade "good"? Yes, but not if it has been chemically etched top bring out a date. After that treatment, you can figure 10-30% of untreated value depending on how well it was done and how nice the coin looks but most of the time the value is towards the 10% end. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
Tex: I sell a lot of these on ebay and I keep meticulous records. As reference, I have sold 57 (1913-D T2's) over the last 4 and a half years that have been TOTALLY restored, which means you can see the horn and other details, as well as the date, and I have averaged $21.43 each. However, you can probably lop off about 10% of that for ebay fees and Paypal fees. Works out to about 18% of BID for a GOOD. Other dates don't work out as well, some others are better. A LOT depends on how it looks. Edited by weerdsteev
01/05/2009 8:11 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2602 Posts |
Have you had any luck with 13S T2, or 14D or S or 15 D or S restored coins? Those are tough ones too and I bet there is a market for selling those dates.
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Rest in Peace
United States
3039 Posts |
I can't understand restoring the whole coin. I can see having the date a little different than the rest of the coin for identification purposes, but why the whole coin. I've seen them that way on ebay & they look weird to me. Anyway, I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder, or buyer. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
mycrob - Yes, I've had a lot of luck with the dates you mentioned. 13-S T2's and 15-S's are hard to find, you might go through 200 no dates with mint marks and only find one of each, if that. 15-D's and, believe it or not, 14-D's are very common. Some come back very strong when you restore them. Others, not as much. Numismo - You're right. Beauty IS in the eye of the beholder. Most people who are accepting of a nickel that has been chemically altered want as much detail as possible. The idea of having a full horn is very appealing to them. Yes - it looks different from a natural or original date nickel, but when the whole thing is restored at least it looks consistent from front side to back side. If you only restore the date it just looks like a big old spot on the coin. By the way, don't make the mistake of thinking that I'm suggesting that these restored dates are better or more preferable than original coins. I have a full set of Buffaloes and not a single one is restored. In fact, most are VF or better. This restoration thing I do (and that I freely share with others) is just sort of an addictive hobby - you know, the kind that is fun and pays for itself at the same time.
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Moderator
United States
16679 Posts |
Quote:
believe it or not, 14-D's are very common. Wow weerdsteev! I had no idea. Makes sense though. Out of 200 coins, I have restored 5 14-D's , one is corroded but surprisingly, the date came out pretty good. I have found 1 1915-S, 2 21-S's, and 2 1913-D TY.2. These are my best finds so far. swcoin.ecrater.com
Edited by vermontensium
01/06/2009 8:41 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
Vermont: No need to be formal. Just call me Weerd.  |
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Moderator
United States
16679 Posts |
Mr. Weerd swcoin.ecrater.com
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Valued Member
United States
369 Posts |
I took the supposed 1913 D Type 2 to my dealer today, and he said it was either a 1913 or a 1919. It's really hard to see now, I had it in my pocket all day, and it actually wore down the outside and the high points, and made them very shiny. I guess the vinegar made the metal soft? If you have a common vinagar-restored nickel that you don't mind messing up, try rubbing it hard on your shirt or pants and see what happens:(
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
Tex - The WHOLE nickel was not softer, but the surface was. Remember what the nickel is composed of: 75% copper and 25% nickel. Vinegar, Nic-a-date and all these other chemicals people speak of work only on the nickel portion of the coin. What happened was that your vinegar eroded away most of the surface nickel material from the coin. The nickel material is what makes the coin hard. If you could have looked at the coin through a microscope after you treated it, you would have seen, even in the fields of the coin, that it was uniformly pitted from the action of the vinegar. It would look like a million little mountain tops and a million little valleys. Putting the coin in your pocket eroded most of the (soft) mountain tops. Why didn't you put it in a 2x2 or a mylar flip?
Edited by weerdsteev
01/10/2009 09:27 am
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Replies: 30 / Views: 3,187 |
First Page
Posted 10/05/2008 1:07 pm
