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Replies: 4 / Views: 5,446 |
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Valued Member
United States
369 Posts |
I recently bought ten dateless Buffalo nickels. I'm trying to use vinegar to expose the dates, and so far it's working. I've got a 1929 D, 1920, 1919, 1918, 1916, 1916 D, 1913 Var 1, 1913 D var1, and the rest are still soaking. But, tonight I pulled one out to check it, and it looked like a 1913 Var 2. But as I looked longer under magnification the 3 began to look like an 8, and the top of that number was flat, like a 3 or a 7. I looked in the Red Book for a pic to help me, and I noticed the 1918/17 error. Then I looked at my nickel and the top of the last number looks doubled to me. It's too worn to tell for sure though. Another problem is that I can't see a clear D on the reverse, since the rim has been flattened over where the D would be. I think I see a faint D, but I'm just not sure. So, my question is: does anyone know how to ID one of these in this bad a condition, or does anyone have a pic of one in worn shape. Thank you.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7629 Posts |
First thing is to make sure it's a D. That's the only mint that issued the 1918/7 VARIETY (not error). Second thing....on the 1918/7D nickel, the top of the 8 will be somewhat flat, but it's a bad place to look. The place to look is inside the loops of the 8. On a normal nickel they will be more or less round, slightly teardrop shaped. On the variety, both the top and bottom will be half moon semicircles instead of 'circles'. Here's a photo I took of one in F12 condition. 
Edited by coppercoins 11/13/2008 07:25 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2540 Posts |
Did you try the vinegar on the reverse to try to bring out the MM?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
There is also a die crack that appears on the obv which is often visible even on dateless specimens. Unfortunately it is almost impossible to find pictures of the die crack since everyone wants to focus on the date. It is faint but it can be seen on the picture that Charles posted. It runs from a little below the center of the top braid to that nick on the indian's jaw. (There seems to be light colored line running from the bottom of that braid towards the corner of the mouth. That's not it. The crack is above that line.) The deep recess between the braid and the jaw tends to protec the crack from wear which is why it is still visible on low grade coins.
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Valued Member
 United States
369 Posts |
First, thanks for the help everyone.
When I first checked it tonight, it looked like a 1913, again. But, again, the more I looked, the more weird it started to look. I have it soaking reverse side up now, so maybe a mm will show. Also, if I was looking in the right spot, I do see a line where Conder101 described the die crack to be. But, like the rest of the coin, I'm not 100% sure.
Is the die crack only on the 1918/17 variety (thanks for the clarification), or is that on any 1918?
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Replies: 4 / Views: 5,446 |
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