Type Set Beginning: 1882-H Victoria Large Cent

It's an Obv 1a and you picked the one year with many "types". An Obv 1 will have a very pointed neck truncation that nearly touches on the bead the bead, just like an 1876 coin. The 1a is rounded and there is more space between the tip and the bead like yours is. There is also an Obv 1a/1, where a 1a hub is restruck over a partially finished working die (it takes 2-3 presses of the hub onto the working die to make it complete)so you have attributes of both .. it will have a pointed truncation almost on the bead, but you will see a little "bump" where the 1a influence is seen. Get a Charlton and look at the Obverse types. 1882 was a transition year where they modified the Obverse away from the 1876 type and created new dies. They came up with a new Obv 2, where the truncation did not end directly on or above the bead .. it was rounded and ended between the beads ... the tip moving slightly to the left. The tip of the crown also directly intercepts a bead at the top and melts into it .. unlike a 1 or 1a where the crown tip doesn't touch. The most visible change from a 1 to a 2 was that the smooth, rounded chin/throat of Vicky was now older with a dimple or crease in it. Lastly, you have some Obv 2/1 overpunch (scarce) with some doubling, the truncation between the beads, the crown tip touching the top bead (like a 2), but the chin/throat is smooth/rounded like an Obv 1. No other year has 5 possible Obv types (1, 1a, 1a/1, 2 and 2/1).

It doesn't have to be a Charlton (and they're not the best or comprehensive) ... just one that physically shows and explains the different "types" or "series" of Obverses and Reverses for years and/or monarchs. The book doesn't even have to be new .. used coin guides a few year's old do the trick, since you don't need the inaccurate pricing anyway. It would be nice if the reference book/guide had a comprehensive section on grading as well. You have a nice start for your series ... nice coins.