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Replies: 27 / Views: 3,595 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
721 Posts |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
I'll say this is counterfeit - the D has been added, but too low relative to the leaf above. Just my opinion.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2001 Posts |
Totally Bogus mint mark. Genuine examples have the D rotated much more clockwise. If you were to draw imaginary parallel lines from the serifs of the D it should line up with the opening above the center of the E of ONE. Shape doesn't look correct either.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
721 Posts |
Man that was what I was fearing and held off on this one. Think I'm waisting time to submit then?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Absolutely not worth submitting.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2001 Posts |
Indeed, Sorry to say you would be wasting your money if you submitted this coin.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
721 Posts |
Well this is depressing. Now I am two coins from completing this set. Well was gonna sell the set for my daughters wedding, but now it's missing the most important coin. Thank you for your time. Lol and thanks for the bad/good news
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2951 Posts |
Id say genuine 1916 dime, fishy looking mintmark  as others have said, and I'll add that the wear on the "mintmark" does not seem to flow into the surrounding coin. Here is my 1916-D graded example in AG-3 focusing on the mintmark region.  If you compare mintmarks between mine and yours, a big difference pops out.
Edited by mrwhatisit 10/26/2021 7:31 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Instructive example, thanks.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
721 Posts |
I see it. Like a kick below the belt. I was looking more into the center of the D looking well not looking quite like a diamond I guess is what got me questioning and then got nervous to post it. Seriously Thank you for your time
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Moderator
 United States
34393 Posts |
That is too bad @minni. Hopefully you are still able to get your money back. Having a well-preserved mintmark on such a worn coin is definitely a red flag. Quote: If you were to draw imaginary parallel lines from the serifs of the D it should line up with the opening above the center of the E of ONE. @misterT, I want to respectfully push back on this comment as I don't think that you are right, or at least not right for all examples of the '16-D. As I look at my own PCGS-slabbed example, @mrw's example posted upthread, and the much-nicer example on the PCGS website, I see that a line connecting the serifs on the letter D seems to hit the opposite edge somewhere around the F of OF. Here is a link: https://www.PCGS.com/coinfacts/coin...6-d-10c/4906It has been some time since I really looked at Mercs so I'm hoping that someone more knowledgeable can weigh in about the orientation of the mintmark on these. Thx.
"If you climb a good tree, you get a push." -----Ghanaian proverb
"The danger we all now face is distinguishing between what is authentic and what is performed." -----King Adz
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2951 Posts |
I really know how you feel, Minnimarine, it took me forever to finally find a legit 16-D dime I could actually afford that was certified by a third party grader. These genuine 16-Ds are out there, but very elusive in any grade and insanely popular with us coin collector's. I want to also say that it was a good thing you posted this here to get better opinions than to get disappointed later. We really don't mind helping folk out like you getting the best answers we can, so I'll encourage you to keep asking away  .
Edited by mrwhatisit 10/26/2021 10:05 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5820 Posts |
I got this info on collectors.com, all four known dies for the 1916-D dime are rotated to some extent. Here is the list:
Die 1 With obverse upright, reverse is rotated to 11:45 Die 2 1:00 Die 3 12:45 Die 4 12:15
Die 1 has the highest mm position, Dies 2 and 3 are repunched, and Die 4 has the lowest mm position. These rotations appeared to be consistent, indicating that the dies were placed into the press in this position for the entire die run.
The key to using this information is to know the mm positions, and then be able to properly line up the obverse.
I'd like to add that the triangular diamond shape in middle of the Denver mm are used before 1935, this will give a hint if a different style of D mm is in place of the usual one. I can only say buy from reputable dealer and this really needed to be in a NGC/PCGS/ANACS slab if you're going to resell.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2001 Posts |
Spence, I think you misunderstood my analysis. I see what you are talking about. You are drawing an imaginary line vertically from the front of the serifs to the F in "OF". That is not what I was trying to describe. If you extend the lines horizontally from the bottom of the D to the word "ONE", you will see the lower line runs into the middle leg of the "E" in ONE while the upper line runs between the middle leg and the opening above it. That was how I was taught to identify this many moons ago. This is what is evident from the link you provided too.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
721 Posts |
Ya thank you all. Not a problem with the refund. Dang it though. I knew to bring it here. See what y'all had to say. I just was crossing fingers the D was ok. Man I held onto that for. Bit not wanting to hear the bad news lol. Seriously thank you guys. If I go to buying a real one I this I will get it already slabbed. @ Mrwhatisit. I'm now jealous of yours lol. Seriously thanks. Hope my 1917 S type one is better news. I will get that posted bit later.
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Moderator
 United States
34393 Posts |
Glad to hear that returning this won't be a problem @minni! Also, thx to @mist for clarifying about the mintmark. I understand now. Thx!
"If you climb a good tree, you get a push." -----Ghanaian proverb
"The danger we all now face is distinguishing between what is authentic and what is performed." -----King Adz
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Replies: 27 / Views: 3,595 |