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Replies: 27 / Views: 2,244 |
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Valued Member
United States
140 Posts |
Idk what exactly is going on here other than md but wow those new pictures are pretty nice.
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Valued Member
United States
98 Posts |
Much better pictures for sure. Makes it easier to see the Machine Doubling on the Lincoln Cent. No DDO or DDR there, which are varieties by the way. The strong Machine Doubling, which is technically a form of damage, possibly was the result of an error if whatever that marking is on the obverse was caused during the strike, the slight metal displacement could potentially result in heavy MD. All 1970 S dimes are struck with the high relief, the reverse of 68 is a business strike variety. I would hope that the nickel, as a proof, actually has the 6 full steps that a proof should, the rarities there again are in the business strike coins. But I'm not an expert and defer to the specialists if my opinion is inaccurate.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
6244 Posts |
Quote: Eric Idk what exactly is going on here Nothing then to learn a new Lexicon: 1.DDO and DDR are now Errors 2.Hub broke 3.Rim Retained Lamination 4.Coins are now Punch and not anymore strike. 5.Occluded gas. 6. reed Cuds7. S/S This it is the discovery of the century. The last RPM was 1969-D Quarter and I have in MS-66 PCGS and it is a really mystery why because 1968 was the last year to punch the MM manualy. So much noise for a set value at 7$, but with this ebay crazy terminologies must be more.
Edited by silviosi 07/15/2023 2:14 pm
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Valued Member
 United States
449 Posts |
Quote: The quarter has 3 reed Cuds I have never heard of this. Is this a thing? Quote: I do not think the case has ever been opened or it should be obvious, unless there is a way to open this type and genre of mint cases and it wouldn't be noticeable once closed back up. This would be very difficult for a 1970 set because of the way they made them, but it is possible. However, there's no reason to think this happened with your proof set. The scratches are probably on the plastic cover and not on the coins. The doubling you see is MD or an illusion from looking through the plastic case in my opinion.
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New Member
 United States
48 Posts |
Hi Silviosi I learned these error terms in the US Error Coin Guide - 2023 and from research on the internet. I'm not sure why this would constitute a new lexicon for any seasoned or amateur coin enthusiast. The book has 1000's of reviews and none I read say the terms in the book are not errors. I'm just getting the hang of coin observations. I've gone through around 500 acquired coins from my late father in-law of all denominations from the 1800's to present. It's confusing because there are at least 10 opinions and prices thrown around from a myriad of sources on every single coin that seems interesting enough to research and in good condition. There is A LOT to learn and wide ranging ideas on each coin but I've studied for 4 months every single day learning terminology to determine pricing because we will sell the collection. I know this is a great community I've turned to for information and think it is based on many recommendations. Not sure why you're thinking it is a lot of hype over a set valued at $7 when I describe errors in great length on all 5 coins. Aren't error S mint mark coins worth more in MS condition than just a fraction over face value? Auctions I've seen and done research on say they are. I spent days researching them, days looking at them from all angles and lighting, 4 hours photographing and updating my post yesterday. An additional 4 hours was spent posting the original. I'm new to this so if my terms are off, I do appreciate anyone telling me in a nice way and have gotten a lot of great direction from several members so far. One of my questions about the set is this: Would the coins be worth more out of the original proof set or taken out and sold individually? There are examples online on the dime and nickel for $1500 to $2500. However, it is pretty astonishing all 5 in the set have errors. I'm betting the set must be worth something more than $7 sold as is. The quarter, nickel and dime are at least MS 66 or 67 and with errors. I'm sure some collectors not looking for perfection would pay much more than face value for the penny and half dollar with their respective errors. Another question is where would someone novice like me sell these coins, at auction or individually online? What are the best auction houses to do this? P.S. One term I used was incorrect in yesterday's post. The error listed for the quarter RIM Cud was mistakenly written as "reed Cud". Please see pictures attached from the 2023 guide book. Wow, I have a headache and can't believe I've spent 2 hours putting this presentation together about error terms. Not sure how much more time I want to put into this coin project. Seems like I'm getting NOWHERE and will lose money vs the opportunity costs of not doing something else with my time. EYE ROLL...REALLY!! Thanks, Shuddle10          
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
6244 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
7174 Posts |
You have proof coins not business strikes. You can't compare proofs to business. You can't compare cents with halfs. Silvio has it right. If you think you have something, send it to one of the auction houses. Utube is not a place to learn. I better stop now. Remember to come back here to show us what your coin realized in the auction.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
877 Posts |
Quote: 7. S/S This it is the discovery of the century. The last RPM was 1969-D Quarter and I have in MS-66 PCGS and it is a really mystery why because 1968 was the last year to punch the MM manualy.
Siviosi, actually the last year of manu punch MM was 1989.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
6244 Posts |
@ Dowhat
Was not manually. I know from where you come with this, but it is an wrong interpretation. Yes, the Dies was MM punch separately till 1989 but not manually, was mechanical. A small but big difference because from 1969 was eliminate the RPM's.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
877 Posts |
Quote: Yes, the Dies was MM punch separately till 1989 but not manually, was mechanical. A small but big difference because from 1969 was eliminate the RPM's. Never . Thanks Silviosi. I have obviously been misinformed in this matter for quite some time. It will take me little time to figure out why the attribution references list RPM's through 1989. My whole way of thinking has been altered by your well established knowledge in numismatics and metallurgy. I am confident, that by this time, you or one of your esteemed associates have contacted the top attributors  of RPM's after 1968 are not authentic. I will be anxiously awaiting the revisions so that I might lighten my load of junk.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
6244 Posts |
Many was took out, but mechanical do not mean eliminate 100%. If the punch tilde? Same as the single squeeze Die. Was believe no more DD's, but we can find from time to time.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
877 Posts |
Quote: Many was took out, but mechanical do not mean eliminate 100%. Now I am really confused. Are you contradicting your previous statement? Can you provide me a list of the ones that have been taken out? It would be a big help, I have too many already and wouldn't mind getting rid of some. Thanks.
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Replies: 27 / Views: 2,244 |