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Replies: 23 / Views: 2,619 |
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Valued Member
 United States
52 Posts |
Well FTW thanks for the feedback I do appreciate! The pics do no justice. In reality they are a lot nicer but that's what happens when you combine bad lighting a crappy camera and then compress a 2MB file into 300KB. Out of curiosity and just for *** Edited by Staff - The bad word filter is in place for a reason. Bypassing the filter and making the intended word obvious anyway is completely unacceptable. ***n giggles do you or someone else here have a picture of a quarter you know is a 68 to upload for comparison?
Thanks all!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3848 Posts |
It would be significantly easier to google an MS-68 quarter instead of asking people to post a photo for you. Learn how to grade confidently for yourself. Do not submit coins as a lottery game and hope the grade comes back what you want.
Suffering from bust half fever. Want to learn how to attribute early half dollars by die variety? Click Here: http://goccf.com/t/434955Shoot me a PM if you are looking to sell bust halves.
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Valued Member
 United States
52 Posts |
I hear ya! Ive googled and googled and after going through 20k coins think I'm getting the hang of it. My request was more to gauge how bad my set up is by seeing a coin from someone else's lights/camera. The pics I posted look like crap and I just wanted to see for comparison if everyone's uploaded pics are like that or just mine ;)
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Pillar of the Community
Portugal
655 Posts |
I do not know how they do it but I am suspecting that they use a camera streaming video to a large monitor, and move the light. It is how I would try to do it if I wanted to spend on equipment. But I find this 0-70 grading hard to understand. It takes into account brightness of the coin also. Luster?
You can check for wear or damage without special equipment. Get some strong light hitting the coin sideways. Rotate the coin in that light and watch for light reflecting off tiny scratches. Worn spots are noticeable in natural sunlight that way. The color of the surface there will be different because light will not reflect the same way.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2003 Posts |
Grading is subjective and not a fixed science. Grading uncirculated coins can be even harder than grading wear on circulated coins. I recommend a book by James Halperin "How to Grade U.S. Coins" which pertains to uncirculated and proof coins. The book shows the high points of each design so you can determine if there is wear on those areas and thus NOT uncirculated. Then it shows you the worst areas to have imperfections, scratches, bagmarks, etc... It explains a formula for determining grade based upon surface preservation (40% of grade), strike (20% of grade), Luster (20% of grade), and overall eye appeal (20% of grade). From the images you posted I don't see anywhere near a MS-67 or 68 grade.
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Valued Member
 United States
52 Posts |
Thank you Mr. T I'll look for it.
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Valued Member
United States
97 Posts |
Dear Cud, In my humble opinion, the chance of getting any of the dates, types of coins you posted being graded MS-68 is virtually zero. That's because if you can easily see one or two "hits" on a coin it is probably a fail because there will be plenty more at 4X-5X magnification. I can understand your desire to pull a coin from the bank roll that is worth hundreds of dollars but I assure you that desire pays the light bill at the grading services. As for lighting, most graders use a 100 watt light bulb in a dark room. Knowing how to examine a coin correctly is more important than the lighting. If you do not tip and rotate the coin under the light you will miss things. I believe a very famous professional grader, J.P. Martin, coined the phrase "making the coin light dynamic." Fluorescent light is best used to detect the loss of original surface on a coin's high points. For that reason alone, only one professional numismatist, Mike Fazzari, recommends using it in addition to incandescent light.
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Moderator
 United States
96386 Posts |
Quote: Fluorescent light is best used to detect the loss of original surface on a coin's high points. For that reason alone, only one professional numismatist, Mike Fazzari, recommends using it in addition to incandescent light. Well I hope that the graders have stocked up on a crap load of these lights, as of now, incandescent lights are now no longer for sale, and I think that fluorescent lights will be next (after all, they have mercury in them.)
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Replies: 23 / Views: 2,619 |