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Mini-Axial Box V.2 Troubleshooting

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 Posted 03/24/2025  1:32 pm Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this topic Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
This weekend, I built a new version of my mini-axial macrophotography box (which I learned how to build on this forum). It will increase coin size from nickel to half dollar. However, the photos that I am taking feel washed out compared to the original LEGO box. I have not changed out the tissue paper filter and tunnel, nor have I changed the light. It's an apples to apples comparison. Why does the old box look so much richer?

New box:


Old box:

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 Posted 03/24/2025  3:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Light is somehow getting in, probably from reflection from within the box or maybe from another source. Can you show a pic of the box? How are you absorbing the light that goes through the glass (on first pass) to keep it from reflecting back and shining up to the sensor?
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 Posted 03/24/2025  3:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Here's what the first image looks like with some simple levels adjustments:

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Edited by rmpsrpms
03/24/2025 3:37 pm
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 Posted 03/24/2025  4:36 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The old box (first) is super narrow, fitting only a nickel. Everything is lined with black felt, even the top. Nothing is set on the new box yet. I am still getting the cardboard rails even and set to 45 degrees. I made it from the black cardboard backing of a picture frame. There is a slight gap on the side, but draping a dark cloth over the assembly produced no change in the picture. The front is wide open, unlike the other box, but it fits right up against the light tunnel.

Could it really be just the reflection of light from the back of the box?




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 Posted 03/24/2025  5:58 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Glued up the box, lined it with black felt. I can see that the sweet spot is smaller than the diameter of a quarter, possibly smaller than the diameter of a nickel. But that's almost certainly a side effect of using a macro lens an inch away from the coin.

I am happy that I can finally take a little axial picture of this die clash quarter. =)





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 Posted 03/25/2025  08:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Better. Probably still too much reflection from the inside of the box. I'd suggest removing the side opposite the light source and adding a bigger/longer "black box" to absorb the light transmitted through the glass that can then reflect back to the glass and up to the lens.

Edited to add: what is your light source? You can improve the size and uniformity of the sweet spot by using a small ringlight instead of a spot light.
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Edited by rmpsrpms
03/25/2025 08:16 am
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 Posted 03/26/2025  3:48 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I had wondered about the back of the box. So it doesn't produce negative photography effects to just have a long tunnel with light absorbing material?

The light is a daylight bulb wrapped in tissues to diffuse the light. People had recommended that on a different thread in Coin Photography.

Would polarizing the light have any useful effect? As I understand it, you want the light entering the box to be essentially perpendicular until it hits the 45 degree pane. The only scatter should come from the object itself. Correct? I had also wondered at just placing an unfiltered light much farther away in a dark room with a much longer entry tunnel.
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 Posted 03/26/2025  10:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I can't think why there would be a negative effect. A long tunnel with absorbing material is an ideal absorber.

Don't worry about polarization. That's a rabbit hole few have emerged from.

You might try covering the opening in front of the coin with tissue. Then move the light farther away from the box. This will give a lot better diffusion and uniformity versus covering the light itself.
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 Posted 04/10/2025  10:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Any update? Did you try the suggestions?
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 Posted 04/13/2025  6:16 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I did experiment with the light bulb uncovered, and the filter closer to the box opening. I noted a ring light as a possibility for my next Amazon order.

The long tunnel isn't feasible on this build of the box—the sides were held together by gluing four folded flaps into the back. I decided to do a new build of the box in the coming weeks. It wasn't wide enough to accommodate a 2x2. It's also a pain to remove the coins without touching them repeatedly or scuffing them on the felt. I think what I really want is just a pane of glass at a 45 degree angle, held by stiff hanger wire anchored to a base, and a top target hole to obscure the iPad/camera behind black felt. That cuts all side and rear reflections by not having a side and rear.
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 Posted 04/16/2025  12:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Even though you won't have rear reflections, you still need to do something to keep light from the rear from hitting the glass and shining up to the camera. No getting around it. But without the box you can just put up a sheet of black velvet or something.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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