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Sixteen Ikes - And Whaddya Get?

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 Posted 05/16/2025  6:07 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Morgana to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
(...with apologies to those too young to remember Tennessee Ernie Ford singing "Sixteen Tons"... which may be most of you!)

I have inherited a small collection that includes 16 Eisenhower dollars. As acknowledged in my "Introduce Yourself" post, I am not a real collector, so much as a willing learner looking to dispose of an inherited collection. I have no illusion that I am sitting on a gold mine (or even a silver mine). With those disclaimers, I have some questions as I continue to learn:

1. Am I correct that the 1972 variants of interest are limited to the Philadelphia mint? To my untrained eye, it looked like several of my 1972 Ikes had Type 2 characteristics (round earth, stubby Florida, incused islands)... but they are all from San Francisco, and my understanding is that "types" are not of interest with that S mint mark. Correct?

2. As you will see below, virtually all my Ikes are from proof or uncirculated mint sets. Am I correct that these still have some numismatic value over spot prices, even with silver where it is today ($1 per gram)? I hate to melt top condition coins if anyone wants them.

3. I don't want to bury anyone in pics if there is nothing to see, so am listing what I have here, and will then be happy to post pics of any coins that might be of interest and/or help you give better feedback. To my limited understanding, there are none that would warrant TPG fees... but there are many that should grade well, condition-wise. Please let me know if any on this list warrant a look by your more experienced eyes:

1971-S Proof
1971-S Uncirc Mint (blue envelope) x3
1972-S Proof (brown box)
1972-S Uncirc Mint (blue envelope) x3
1973-S Proof (annual 6 coin set)
1973-D Uncirc Mint set
1973-P Uncirc Mint set
1974-S Proof (annual 6 coin set)
1974-D Circulated
1976-S Proof (bicentennial 3 coin set)
1976-S Proof (annual 6 coin set)
1990-P Proof (Ike's centennial)

Thanks for reading!
Edited by Morgana
05/16/2025 6:55 pm
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triggersmob's Avatar
Australia
9357 Posts
 Posted 05/16/2025  7:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add triggersmob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Sixteen Ikes - And Whaddya Get?

Another day older, and deeper debt.


Quote:
with apologies to those too young to remember Tennessee Ernie Ford singing "Sixteen Tons"... which may be most of you!

I actually posted a video of this song on this forum 10 days ago.

https://goccf.com/t/472609&whichpage=542#4296079
Edited by triggersmob
05/16/2025 7:21 pm
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Dearborn's Avatar
United States
94765 Posts
 Posted 05/16/2025  7:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dearborn to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Tennessee Earnie Ford! wow! haven't listened to him in a long time - A great song writer and singer!


Quote:
Another day older, and deeper debt.

That's what happens when you pay $200.00 for a penny..
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Dearborn's Avatar
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94765 Posts
 Posted 05/16/2025  7:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dearborn to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
to CCF.

Answer to question #1 - Yes, they are limited to the Philly Mint.
Wait for jbuck (Our resident Expert on these coins) to see your post. He can answer any question you can think of.
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Brandmeister's Avatar
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 Posted 05/16/2025  8:26 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The 1973 uncirculated coins were only issued in sets, not for circulation, and have a higher resale value than ordinary Ikes released for circulation.
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MisterT's Avatar
United States
2001 Posts
 Posted 05/16/2025  9:02 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MisterT to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Many of the Ike dollars are plagued with heavy bag marks. Any that can grade MS-65 and better are worthy of consideration. The reverse of the 1972 P type two was struck from proof dies which is why that style earth exists on both the 1972P business strike and the proof but it is only valuable on the business strike from Philadelphia. The 1973 P and D were mint set only coins and command a small premium. The 1971 thru 1974 blue Ikes and Brown Ikes are 40% silver as are the Three coin Bicentennial sets.
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United States
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 Posted 05/16/2025  10:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Morgana to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
The 1973 uncirculated coins were only issued in sets, not for circulation, and have a higher resale value than ordinary Ikes released for circulation.


Quote:
The 1973 P and D were mint set only coins and command a small premium.

Thanks for these interesting clues. The reference to mint sets prompts another question:

The uncirculated mint coins are all packaged in original govt cellophane (pliofilm) envelopes. I know that one should leave hard cases intact (e.g., the GSA holders for CC Morgans, which I also have). Does that same guidance apply to "soft" packaging like that around the mint sets?
Edited by Morgana
05/16/2025 10:32 pm
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jbuck's Avatar
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187673 Posts
 Posted 05/19/2025  11:35 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
1. Am I correct that the 1972 variants of interest are limited to the Philadelphia mint?
Correct.

Quote:
To my untrained eye, it looked like several of my 1972 Ikes had Type 2 characteristics (round earth, stubby Florida, incused islands)... but they are all from San Francisco, and my understanding is that "types" are not of interest with that S mint mark. Correct?
The reverse style on the "Type 2" Philly reverse is the only one used for the San Francisco coins.

Restated, there is only one reverse variety used in San Francisco, which is the same that was as used for the Type 2 Philadelphia strikes.

It was probably used in error. All dies originate in Philly. Reverse dies that were meant to be sent to San Francisco were mistakenly used in Philadelphia for a brief time.
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jbuck's Avatar
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 Posted 05/19/2025  11:37 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
2. As you will see below, virtually all my Ikes are from proof or uncirculated mint sets. Am I correct that these still have some numismatic value over spot prices, even with silver where it is today ($1 per gram)? I hate to melt top condition coins if anyone wants them.
It really depends on the condition, but unfortunately that window is shrinking.

That being said, you should be able to easily find a buyer before you would ever have to resort to melting them.
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jbuck's Avatar
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 Posted 05/19/2025  11:40 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
3. I don't want to bury anyone in pics if there is nothing to see, so am listing what I have here, and will then be happy to post pics of any coins that might be of interest and/or help you give better feedback. To my limited understanding, there are none that would warrant TPG fees... but there are many that should grade well, condition-wise. Please let me know if any on this list warrant a look by your more experienced eyes:
If I read the list correctly, it seems many of them are still in the original government packaging. That should make them easier to sell.
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jbuck's Avatar
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187673 Posts
 Posted 05/19/2025  11:44 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
The uncirculated mint coins are all packaged in original govt cellophane (pliofilm) envelopes. I know that one should leave hard cases intact (e.g., the GSA holders for CC Morgans, which I also have). Does that same guidance apply to "soft" packaging like that around the mint sets?
I should have read this first.

A general rule is that sets are worth less than the sum of their parts. However, that requires you to put in the effort to break up the sets and list each coin individually. Since time and effort have value, it will be easier and faster to sell the sets intact.
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 Posted 05/19/2025  11:58 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Morgana to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you, jbuck. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

Quote:
The reverse style on the "Type 2" Philly reverse is the only one used for the San Francisco coins. Restated, there is only one reverse variety used in San Francisco, which is the same that was as used for the Type 2 Philadelphia strikes.

Got it, that all makes sense now. And even gives me a little reassurance that my eye for details wasn't completely off (other than ignoring the mint mark on first pass). "Hey... this looks like a Type 2... so does this one... and this one... and this. Wow, every single 1972 Ike I have is Type 2!?"

Quote:
It really depends on the condition, but unfortunately that window is shrinking. That being said, you should be able to easily find a buyer before you would ever have to resort to melting them.

Yes, I am seeing that. I had keyed in on the 1973 uncirculated mint sets as being of mildly more interest, but the only pic I have posted didn't "grade" well here, at least shooting through the pliofilm wrapper. If you see any on the list in OP that grab your eye, as the Resident Expert, I'd be happy to take more/better photos.

Quote:
A general rule is that sets are worth less than the sum of their parts. However, that requires you to put in the effort to break up the sets and list each coin individually. Since time and effort have value, it will be easier and faster to sell the sets intact.

I am retired, so my time and effort have less value than they used to (HA). My additional reading suggests that cutting open the pliofilm/cellophane mint sets is not a major violation, but that I should leave the hard cases intact.

How/where to sell remains a hanging question for me. I am not excited to wade into ebay, and don't appear to have value that would merit TPG or auction houses (with the exception of CC Morgans). I am also realistic about the discount that dealers would necessarily need to offer.

Selling does remain the goal. I have too many hobbies already to do justice to another, and the same is true for my heirs.
Edited by Morgana
05/19/2025 12:29 pm
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jbuck's Avatar
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 Posted 05/19/2025  2:21 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

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Got it, that all makes sense now...
Glad to help.


Quote:
Yes, I am seeing that. I had keyed in on the 1973 uncirculated mint sets as being of mildly more interest, but the only pic I have posted didn't "grade" well here, at least shooting through the pliofilm wrapper.
The plastic loves to get in the way. I will take a look at the 1973-P and comment there.


Quote:
My additional reading suggests that cutting open the pliofilm/cellophane mint sets is not a major violation, but that I should leave the hard cases intact.
That might have been a solid rule in the past, but my answer now is different than it would have been ten or more years ago. I am not seeing as many intact OGP for sale as I used to. I feel like it is easier to sell them that way and the value is not going to suffer as much, at least for the single Ikes (blue envelopes and brown boxes). It may still be worth the time to break up the six-coin sets .


Quote:
Selling does remain the goal. I have too many hobbies already to do justice to another, and the same is true for my heirs...
My suggestion: Take your time and stay active here. Continue to show us what you have and get all the opinions you can. In time, you will qualify to sell and be able to offer everything here. Even if you do not sell anything to the members, the time spent here will give you some more knowledge needed to sell in other venues.

I need to disclose that I have never sold any of my coins, and with all my Ike sets being complete, I am not looking to buy any more at this time. When it comes to what you should do, my opinions are mostly formed from past experience as a buyer. Things change all the time and other opinions should be considered, which is a good reason to stick around and build your knowledge.
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 Posted 05/19/2025  2:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Morgana to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
The plastic loves to get in the way. I will take a look at the 1973-P and comment there.


Before you do, give me 2 minutes and I will post a new pic sans plastic.....
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jbuck's Avatar
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 Posted 05/19/2025  2:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

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Before you do, give me 2 minutes and I will post a new pic sans plastic.....
Ah, too late! We posted at the same time. But I was able to add a comment after seeing the new photos. It is a good demonstration of how photos can make all the difference.
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United States
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 Posted 05/20/2025  2:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Morgana to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
My suggestion: Take your time and stay active here. Continue to show us what you have and get all the opinions you can. In time, you will qualify to sell and be able to offer everything here. Even if you do not sell anything to the members, the time spent here will give you some more knowledge needed to sell in other venues.

I need to disclose that I have never sold any of my coins, and with all my Ike sets being complete, I am not looking to buy any more at this time. When it comes to what you should do, my opinions are mostly formed from past experience as a buyer. Things change all the time and other opinions should be considered, which is a good reason to stick around and build your knowledge.


jbuck, thanks for all the feedback and be assured that I am taking this good advice to heart. I haven't viewed you or anyone else here as buyers, but am happy to view you as teachers! Will continue to learn and will post more pics before long.

P.S., and I am delighted that the initial commenters knew the musical answer to "...and whaddya get?"
Edited by Morgana
05/20/2025 2:35 pm
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