| Author |
Replies: 25 / Views: 3,478 |
|
|
|
Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: Time to find a piece of glass. Look no farther than your nearest picture frame. 
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1882 Posts |
lol, you're making it too easy. And if you can make some real nice, deep-cameo proofs show up on my desk, your magic wand is really working.
Any real advantage to the BeamSplitter (?) glass mentioned in other threads?
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
3077 Posts |
and what power light bulb?
|
|
Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: Any real advantage to the BeamSplitter (?) glass mentioned in other threads? Never played with it. I've heard, and seen, pretty good stuff about it, though. Quote: and what power light bulb? Kinda depends on your camera setup. Me, I can reliably go down to 1/4 or slower shutter and get good shots; as a result, a single 60w bulb is more than ample. The axial shot I posted was ISO400, f/8.0, 1/60 with a single 60w, so I had plenty of room to adjust for more light on the coin. I suspect if you go as high as 100w, you'll get too much glare.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
3077 Posts |
i am shooting at ISO 64 should I increase it ?
|
|
Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
ISO 64? Wowser. Absolutely increase. That's about as low as you can go for light sensitivity. At ISO 64, the 1/60 exposure at ISO 400 I mentioned earlier would probably have to be 1/2 to 1 full second, to get the same picture. Unless you're using a decent dSLR, rigidly mounted and remotely triggered, keep the ISO setting as high as you can without introducing noise into your shots. Any decent digital camera should give excellent results at ISO 200, and most at ISO 400.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
3077 Posts |
i see the 1/2 shutter speed frequently gonna move the ISO up to 200 and I do use a tripod and the timer for shutter rele ASE
|
|
Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Good deal. You'll find the more sensitive ISO will give you more lighting options, especially if your camera gives you good results down to 1/2 second. It's pretty easy to over-light a coin, and the increased ISO will allow you to use (for instance) one 60w bulb when you had to use 2 before.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3234 Posts |
I always have my ISO set on the lowest available on my digital SLR which is 100. I then set my aperture for no lower than 13 and let the camera figure out how long the exposure should be. Recently, I've been setting the aperture setting to the highest available, which I think is 32 for my macro lens. It makes for a long exposure but really, really sharp coin photos.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
3077 Posts |
well I am still not happy with my results I am having better luck w/ indirect lighting
|
| |
Replies: 25 / Views: 3,478 |