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 Replies: 75 / Views: 7,793 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1534 Posts |
FR-2 seems about right, an AG-3 doesn't seem too out of the question though.
And my mistake, Steve's right.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1409 Posts |
johnny - I follow some of this guys lots too. Won one once, but it wasn't one of the biggies. A couple of 17 type 1's, one was an S, and a 24.
Congrats again, its tough agonizing over some of these lots that are absolute junk, but once in a while, we find a good coin in there.
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Valued Member
United States
171 Posts |
How do you know it's a 1916? It could be a 1917! The date is obliterated! - coincrazed
Edited by The return of Coincrazed
03/28/2010 11:52 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1409 Posts |
Based on various diagnostics that are used to distinguish a 16 from a 17, it is likely that this is a 16. I'm more convinced on the one Nod found, but this one is pretty solid too. Only real way to find out now is to have it sent to a TPG for validation/verification. Johnny is pretty squared away on these and his judgement of it 'in hand' is going to be better than what we will see via photos. |
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Rest in Peace
 United States
4849 Posts |
Quote:
How do you know it's a 1916? It could be a 1917! The date is obliterated! - coincrazed There are multiple die markers that differentiate the 1916 from the 1917, all the way down to the PR-01 level of wear. Here is a diagram for both coins with explanation. 1916 1917 Here is a great resource. http://www.slqcoins.us/educational.html |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1055 Posts |
Great explaination Johnny. I am pretty convinced yours is a 1916, yours shows all thoses diagnostics you pointed out. congrats on a fantastic find!
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Valued Member
United States
171 Posts |
Yeah, like you all are ever going to know. You all are TALKING. Just talking. It is impossible to tell without a date. I am not trying to be offensive, but it's my opinion you're never going to know unless they come out with nic-a-date for quarters. - coincrazed
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1534 Posts |
Coincrazed, Johnny knows his series well, and I do too, to some extent. Learn more about SLQ's and you will find out there is a way to differentiate between 1916 and 1917 quarters. Look at the numerous examples of dateless 1916's in all of the three TPG's. Think they all messed up that badly? |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
968 Posts |
Coincrazed, I'm sorry to say but you are flat out wrong here. Just search around online for 1916 and 1917 SLQ's with dates on them and compare them to the diagnostics in Johnny's post. There IS a difference. I only learned to tell the difference recently and already I can look at the ebay lot Johnny linked and tell there is one 1916 and two 1917 variety one's. To me the most obvious diagnostic characteristic in heavily worn coins is the bottom of her dress. By the way, I say look at images of ones with dates so there is no question when comparing the diagnostic to the year. I think I'm going to start searching for these hidden treasures myself! Edited by Saruma
04/14/2010 12:06 am
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
Quote:
Yeah, like you all are ever going to know. You all are TALKING. Just talking. It is impossible to tell without a date. I am not trying to be offensive, but it's my opinion you're never going to know unless they come out with nic-a-date for quarters. - coincrazed For most SLQ dates, you are right. There are not enough "known" differences in die characteristics to tell between say a dateless 1923-s and a dateless 1924-s. The 1916 is an exception. It's not my opinion, it is a fact plain and simple. ALL of the 1916 quarters were struck using a single obverse die, and they ALL have the same very distinguishing characteristics. If you have a dateless type 1 quarter, and that quarter has the obvious distinguishing characteristics of the 1916 die; then it is impossible for it to be any other date. As has been stated before, All of the top TPGs certify dateless 1916 quarters which should be proof alone of the confidence level of these charateristics. There are many issues that numismatic experts disagree on, but this is not one of them.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1409 Posts |
Johnny - did you send yours in to be graded?
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
No, the one pictured is a Heritage example, though it is quite similar to mine detail wise. I am really considering sending mine in.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1409 Posts |
If I ever found one, I'd send it in. Not so much for selling purposes, but validation/authentication. Which of course would add to the ease in selling should someone ever need to.
I tried explaining to my wife last night why I'd probably never complete the set, her advice, "Sell all of your silver and buy one." Hmmmmmmm - no.
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
Yeah, sending mine in is definitely a good idea for the reasons you described. I have been considering it and I will probably do it someday, but then I would have the same problem that Steve described, and empty hole in my album that may never again be filled unless I "crack" it out.
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Valued Member
United States
171 Posts |
All right. Whatever you guys say. If I had said that on Treasurenet, EVERYONE would have laid into me. Although I totally disagree, I am not going to argue. I appreciate you all being so nice on this forum. I can't believe you didn't get angry. - coincrazed
Edited by The return of Coincrazed
04/14/2010 11:33 am
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Replies: 75 / Views: 7,793 |
First Page
Posted 03/27/2010 4:49 pm
