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 Replies: 75 / Views: 7,795 |
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Valued Member
United States
171 Posts |
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"Sell all of your silver and buy one. That right there is what I'm going to do along with working odd jobs to buy a 1916D Mercury dime. If I get that coin, I know I'll be happy with it for a very long time, even if I sell all my silver dimes and silver half dollars to get it.(I wouldn't sell any of my silver quarters) That coin, in my opinion, is well worth it. I am NOT however, going to buy an About Good-3. Good-4 is my bottom line. - coincrazed |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
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All right. Whatever you guys say. This isn't opinion, man. It's fact. The research is done. Proven. You're disagreeing with reality, not speculation. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2335 Posts |
This is America & you are certainly entitled to your opinion, even if it isn't based on fact.
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Valued Member
United States
171 Posts |
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This isn't opinion, man. It's fact. All right all right. It's fact. - coincrazed Edited by The return of Coincrazed
04/14/2010 12:10 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1534 Posts |
Good that you realize it. Saying dateless 1916's don't exist is like saying that the 1916-D Mercury dime doesn't exist. |
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Valued Member
United States
149 Posts |
Right. You can definitely tell the differences. Being the Type One was only for two years (16 & 17), no 17's match the characteristics of the 16's.
On a side note, I have someone who trades me NO DATE 1913-S T2 Nickels whenever he gets them. He has not acid-ed them, the date is not visible, but is certain they are the 13-S T2. I have traded for probably about 10 or so that I acid, and all have been 13-S T2's. (I prefer my acid-ing job over his).
So it is definitely possible to know what characteristics to look for to determine the date.
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Rest in Peace
 United States
4849 Posts |
Wow, that's cool oim. I didn't realize you could do that with certain Buffalo nickels too. |
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Valued Member
United States
149 Posts |
It is possible. After all those I have received I am still not confident with doing it... but with a combination of what he calls the "Sexy Little S" and the very weak to non-existent LIBERTY, he has been dead on so far with them. ~10 for 10 isn't bad! But the "Sexy S" makes its way on to 16-S's as well... and those familiar with acid-ing are aware that probably about half are 16's (d &s)... Still not sure how old you have to get to consider a letter "sexy"... but here 65 is about the age. haha. But the same goes for Large and Half Cents, Bust coinage... there are certain things that are like it on no other date that make it non-questionable as to what the date is. |
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Valued Member
United States
171 Posts |
Quote:Saying dateless 1916's don't exist is like saying that the 1916-D Mercury dime doesn't exist. Huh? The last time I checked, Mercury dimes didn't have the problem with the date wearing off them like the Liberty Standing quarters. Adolph Weinman actually KNEW what he was doing and KNEW about wear patterns on coins, -that you don't make the date higher than the rim, duh- unlike Hermon Macneil. I'm not saying they don't exist, I'm saying you can't tell them apart from other coins! Can you tell if a 1916 Mercury dime is from Denver when the mintmark, (if any) has worn away? What are we going to do next, say a 1916 Mercury dime is from Denver, because of a small, almost not noticeable difference? Correct me if I'm wrong. - coincrazed Edited by The return of Coincrazed
04/20/2010 2:14 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1882 Posts |
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Huh? Saying dateless 1916's don't exist is like saying that red fire trucks don't exist. Edited by steve199
04/20/2010 2:14 pm
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Valued Member
United States
171 Posts |
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Saying dateless 1916's don't exist is like saying that red fire trucks don't exist. I didn't say they didn't exist. They exist, but how can you tell them apart from all the others? From a difference in the dress? I've had it with arguing. - coincrazed Edited by The return of Coincrazed
04/20/2010 2:18 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1882 Posts |
True, you didn't say they don't exist...I was merely rephrasing that statement to get it out of the context of coins.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1409 Posts |
Quite simple - there are diagnostic differences in the 1916 SLQ and the 1917 Type 1 SLQ, ranging from the drapery behind or in front of the wall, crease in the drapery, bottom of gown, placement of head (break in the beads on rim), etc., etc.
There is extensive documentation available on this, and someone, somewhere spent a ton of time determining it to be true - otherwise the TPGs wouldn't certify 1916's without dates.
If you choose to ignore the existence, then fine, but its not something that can be factually denied.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1534 Posts |
I agree with Afcop. Okay, how about this. Saying you can't tell a 1916 SLQ apart from others is like saying 1916-D Mercury dimes can't be told apart from other dimes. Edited by wheatguy
04/20/2010 5:43 pm
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
I think another parallel here is with a dateless PR/FR 1793 chain cent. This coin also goes for thousands even in low grades where all you can make out is the reverse chain. It is slabbed by all TPGs as a 1793 chain cent even when only the outline of the chain is visible. Well, how do you know it is a 1793 if you can't read the date? Why not a 1795 cent?
Well; they only made the chain cent in 1793, so when you see the diagnostics of this type, you know what it is even when the date has been obliterated.
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Replies: 75 / Views: 7,795 |
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Posted 04/14/2010 11:42 am
