1972-S Proof Eisenhower Dollar - Peg Leg, DDO, And ?

Dcreek1968:

First- great pics.

While I do collect Ike's, I'm nowhere near an expert on these Proof Ike's.

I would recommend that you join the Ike Group and post these pics on the Ike forum also.

They also have a DIVA (Designed Ike Variety) Attribution Program for both RAW Ike's and slabbed Ike's.

Chuck.

Very nice peg. not an expert with the ikes but looks doubled to me. WOLF

Chuckster, et al - many thanks for the comments. I've been to the Ikegroup website and applied for membership in their forum. If accepted, I will proceed to post the same pics and information to see what they say. I was kind of taken aback by both the die abrasion on the "R" and "E" (may be some on the "B" as well), but also with the fact that it may very well be a DDO and have the funny little pimple in the "R" of trust. Makes you wonder what the die maker was up to ..... or on!

John1, I'm unfamiliar with PM, but then I had an IT bypass at a very early age. Let me know what it is and I'll update my profile.

As to your question, the pics are very low tech to say the least. I am using a Kodak Easyshare DX6340 digital camera. For the obverse and reverse pics I set it up on a tripod and place the coin on a black felt backdrop that covers some styrofoam blocks that I use to angle and hold the coin while picture taking. I place the coin at an angle and then try to set the tripod about 24 inches away at a 90 degree angle (or close thereabouts) to the surface of the coin. I set the camera on the "close-up" setting (for objects 24 inches or less) and then use the wide angle or tripod button to move in closer. These were taken on about a 8.0 magnification as I recall. Regarding the lighting, I don't have to play with it as much now as say a few months ago, but I use various sources for diffuse lighting to try to avoid glare, etc. Trial and error has shown me what works....and what doesn't.

On the other pics of the specific areas of the coin, I am actually taking those through the lens of a mircoscope by holding the camera up to the lens piece and snapping pics. I don't use any flash, just the microscope lighting (which is on a rheostat) to adjust. All but one of these pics were taken at 10X on the scope, the latter picture of the dot in the "R" was taken on 30X. You can use the wide angle / telephoto button on the camera to also zoom in. I use the camera's protruded lens to hold the camera still on the microscope eyepiece. Sometimes you have to adjust either the camera or the microscope to get a full field picture, but that comes with experience.

On the side, I have looked at an adapter to hold the camera on to the microscope for years - they are about $300 with no return if they don't work. I decided not to go for it and just try this out. With a little trial and error it seems to be working fine like it is for now. Thanks for the question and apologies for a long winded response.

One more thing - I am probably taking twice as many photos and throwing about half of them away. Oh the beauty of digital cameras!! The only editing that I have done on these pics is to rotate them one way or the other to get them right side up... on most of them anyway. Have a great day and good luck with the pics.

Any update result on this coin?