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 Replies: 19 / Views: 2,425 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
880 Posts |
I know this has been posted before and I've even comment on it, but lets discuss.
At what point do you not crack something out of it's slab? For you is it grade, the TPGC itself (i.e. you'll bust an ICG but not a PCGS), or just raw value?
Here's why I'm asking. I'm thinking about buying an MS66 coin. Total value is about $60 (maybe not even that high). It's toned quite nice and it's in an NGC slab. The coin is in the 40's, not a key date, but it is a semi key date.
Not trying to be specific here because my question isn't about this coin, but rather in general. Is MS66 high enough for you not to want to bust it out? I think it's a freakin beauty and I want it out and in my binder - which should be reason enough for me to just do it. I just have respect for any coin that can get to MS66. Should I raise my standards to MS67?
Help me talk this one out!
Thanks
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1534 Posts |
It depends on the individual coin. Toners are generally best kept in the slab if you want to sell it later on, since more people will be interested in it slabbed, as being slabbed in a no problem holder generally leads people that the toning is AT. With most other higher end coins I would just keep it in the slab as cracking the coin out would diminish the value to a certain extent from what you originally bought it at. If you're one of those collectors that rarely sell their coins and don't plan to for a while, then busting the coin out of the holder shouldn't be a problem. It all boils down to what you want and are satisfied with.
Edited by wheatguy
12/11/2010 10:05 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
Good question! I struggle with this one myself. Thinking through this, here's probably how my thinking goes: 1) If it's in anything other than an ANACS, PCGS, or NGC slab, I will almost certainly crack it without much thought 2) If I have a hole to fill in an album, I will crack a top-3 slab if: - it is a circualted coin;
- the value is not TOO high - for me, a few hundred dollars is not too high to crack; and
- it's not highly counterfeited
3) If it's an MS coin, I tend not to crack as just the slightest rub putting it in the album will make it AU. I might make an exception where I need to fill a slot, though - 31-S LWC comes to mind. 4) If it's high value and widely counterfeited (like a 1909-S VDB), I'd really struggle with cracking that out. I may come to that road someday, but not yet... |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2448 Posts |
Depends on the slab. If one of the reputable firms; not for me. If an old basement firm; definitely and get it re-slabbed if decent. Sorry, I don't have a lot of faith in coin books. I'm doing away with my last Peace dollar Dansco book. The pages have some how swelled and the holes no longer contain the coins. One of one of my nicest 1922s now has a rub mark on the reverse. |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I'd answer, but KenKat spoke for me. Emphasis on rarity, popularity of counterfeits and relative resale value between raw and slabbed. You have to weigh what it means to you today, and what will happen when you're gone; sometimes the future has to dictate the present despite your conflicting desire.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
880 Posts |
Kent you raise a good point. Since I'm into Jefferson's, I haven't seen many coins at all that get counterfeit. However, I do have the LWC too and I still need those key date coins. One thing you have to think about though - Let's look at the 09-S VDB. Lets say you're like myself and want one, but at this current time, don't want to pay for an MS one. Would you put a value coin VG, F, XF something like that, into your binder? Like take a VF20 09-S VDB and put it into your binder? You know it's legit and you're likely to not sell it anyway right? Because it fills the spot in your binder. And if you were to go out and buy an MS one, you're likely not going crack that for the binder? I have taken about 5 MS64 coins out of PCGS slabs already to put into my 7113 - one was the 50-D. The coin I'm struggling with (have to win it first ;) ) is toned, not counterfeited often, grades MS66. To me, MS66 is pretty darn good and I'll have a hard time not cracking it. I know I will |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
I am working backwards with my Lincoln Cent set, trying to build a red to red/brown uncirculated set. So - I am trying to hold off on the 4 keys until I get to them. That conveniently defers the SVDB until the very end. I am working on the early 30's now, needing the 31-D, 31-S, 32 and 33-D to be BU back to 1930. I will probably crack a slab for the 31-S. I will have to do some thinking as I get back into the 20's. It will likely take a number of years but I am thinking I am going to stick to the plan. I will likely end up cracking a few more slabs to get there. A lot of that is based on the price of these - still in my "cracking" comfort range for the most part. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
880 Posts |
That raises another question for me. Does keeping these coins in an album risk the chance of color change? For you that could be a big deal. For me I don't care too much because I'm buying toned coins anyway. Unless they could change the toning over time... I need to get a good safe or something to keep my albums in anyway though.
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Moderator
United States
187850 Posts |
I buy coins to put in my Dansco albums. I have never bought a slabbed coin, but if I did, I would not hesitate to crack it out because my goal is to complete the album. For me, the hypothetical high-grade/high-rarity coin would not be a target purchase to begin with; since (in my opinion) a Dansco album is not a good place to keep it.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
to me, I don't care what the grade is or what the TPG it is from nor do I care how much its worth, if I bought it because I had a hole to fill its going in there no matter what. |
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New Member
United States
33 Posts |
If I spend the extra funds to purchase a slab I would have a hard time removing the coin. The one thing I like about slabbed coins if it is graded MS70 and I leave it in the slap the grade will remain the same. So I guess it would depend on the value of the coin.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
592 Posts |
I have cracked more than a few...that said most are lower end/grade coins.
When my son & I completed the Kennedy Dansco 8166, We did crack quite a few 70's.
Makes for a beautiful collection; also plentiful & most were reasonable in higher grades..
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Pillar of the Community
United States
880 Posts |
I think the benefit of me collecting Jeffersons right now is that none of the coins are really high dollar. You are right that it would make for a pretty impressive binder!
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Previously Banned Member
United States
71 Posts |
I purposely search for LWC slabbed as genuine that are very well struck MS63 details + that have been dipped. I crack them out immediately and put them in this one old album near the coal furnace in the basement. :) |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
880 Posts |
That's funny that you say that. I bought a Morgan that was slabbed as Genuine from the coin show I went to. The dealer said that they typically don't buy those types of coins, but had this one from an estate sale. Sold it to me for a great price because it couldn't get graded. I haven't gone out of my way to look for those coins though - good idea.
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Valued Member
United States
374 Posts |
I would never crack a key or semi key date coin from the top grading companies. I have a friend he cracks morgans and saves the slabs and the paperwork inside. I do have a NTC $10.00 Gold liberty I bought 5 or more years ago thats graded ms 62 pl obverse which I hope is at least real. LOL
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Replies: 19 / Views: 2,425 |
Posted 12/11/2010 10:09 am
