| Author |
 Replies: 37 / Views: 4,192 |
|
|
|
Previously Banned Member
United States
71 Posts |
|
|
Previously Banned Member
United States
71 Posts |
Quote:
I was actually considering doing at least part of the section using the same coin that grades an MS63 red and take it all the way up to MS67 red digitally. I am very good at digitally removing blemishes on coins, and this would give people a "how many flaws does it take" scenario. Thats cool and all, but luster factors alot into the 65-67 grades does it not? I would think you could tone down a 67 to be less reflective but how would you add that luster to a 63.. nevermind. I don't want to know, nor would I want you to post how it could be done. :) no multi-quote on this board? |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2424 Posts |
i appreciate the advice coppercoins. I have a lot to learn and it is humbling.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1659 Posts |
Thank you coppercoins, for taking the time to share your expertise and experience! I always value your opinions!  |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
8904 Posts |
Quote:
no multi-quote on this board? Sure you can! Quote:
no multi-quote on this board? It happens all the time! |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
958 Posts |
the grading scale changes with year ?
I read that late 178x-1850's get alot of slack on circulation wear.
Then 1851-1899 fall into a diff bracket then post 1900 cents
Same with 1900-1933 cents versus post 1934- present
a coin dated 1933 might be a VG with its wear , the same coin if it were a 1868 might be a VF
then a 1798 might be considered Xf
is this true chuck?
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
7629 Posts |
No, it is not true. The scale doesn't change. The affect that wear has in the details present changes with hub changes because the design is different and the treatment of the dies and planchets changes with time. All of this is a part of considering how to grade a coin.
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
19951 Posts |
Quote:
1909-1919 Philly, then branch mints.
1920-1934 Philly, then branch mints.
1935-1958 - all
1943
1959-1968 - all
1969-1982 - all
1983-1992 - all
1993-2008 - all
2009
2010
Yes! That'd be awesome, exactly what I was thinking.  Lincoln Cent Lover!VERDI-CARE™ INVENTOR https://verdi.care/
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1406 Posts |
Thank you coppercoins! I have spent some time reading all your posts (always do when I come across them) and feel like I have been to a seminar! I have learned so much from your to the point explanations. Even if I don't understand your explanation at first, when I am able to figure it out I have that 'aha' moment and feel a little ashamed that I couldn't figure out your excellent descriptions in the first place.
p.s. - BadThad, you're in the boat too, so to speak. Thank you both!
Edited by captainkurt
12/15/2010 10:47 am
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2600 Posts |
All I know is that I would buy the book. The date breakdown and mints are exactly what is needed. Adding an overview of effect from die wear, weak die strike and true wear would be nothing but a bonus. I am amazed how many people do not understand the indicators of die wear and then throw in high vs low relief and most are lost. Thx so much for even considering it, Chuck, and then involving us here.
JIm
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
7629 Posts |
Yeah...hmm...the book. I never really though about including all this as a chapter in my upcoming book. Heck, that's a great idea! LOL! All I was thinking about here was my website.
Sometimes the obvious has to hit us for us to see it.
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
10982 Posts |
Thanks for the comments and for staying active here at CCF Chuck. We appreciate your input and value your opinions.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4989 Posts |
Lincoln cents are a TOUGH area to grade too given the colossal number of dates, mints, and die varieties as well as all the ways that copper can be toned naturally and not. I definitely respect anyone who can reach expert level in this area.
|
|
Previously Banned Member
United States
71 Posts |
Quote:
I was thinking about here was my website. I just spent an hour on your website. You have a ton of very nice circulated coins on your website priced right! I am not plugging your website however I believe in giving credit where it is due. For any Lincoln Lover reading this, check out his website, the shear volume alone, more than attests to his expertise! If for no other reason, his photographed examples would serve to help with grading circulated Lincolns. I actually feel guilty that I didn't buy anything especially after studying all the DDO's & RPM's . Seriously, I have looked at a bazillion copper cent sites over the last year. If there is one better, I want to know about it. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
7629 Posts |
I do appreciate the plug - seriously...but... The website on which this grading tutorial would go is https://www.coppercoins.com - and there are no coins for sale on that site. The sales website is https://www.lincolncent.com - which is the site EyeEatWheaties is referencing. By the way, crafty name...I like it. |
| |
Replies: 37 / Views: 4,192 |
First Page
Posted 12/14/2010 6:07 pm
