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Replies: 31 / Views: 6,029 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
I'm selling a "chemically restored" 1913-S Type 2 Buffalo nickel on ebay and I received an inquiry from an eBayer that, in part, said this: "This coin almost looks like a spark erosion counterfeit to me, but the liberty looks like a AG3 coin which no one would likely counterfeit." The ebay item number is 200573071325. Do I have anything to be concerned about? For those who aren't familiar with what I do, I locate completely dateless specimens and chemically restore the ENTIRE coin to bring back as many of the eroded features as possible. So...if this coin IS counterfeit, whatever was counterfeited on it didn't keep it out of circulation. Anyway...I'm pretty sure the answer is NO, but if any of you think it is I'd like to know so I can take it down.
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
What does it weigh Steve?
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1291 Posts |
Dave: I don't have anything that can weigh it precisely. I have a scale I use for calculating postage, and I can set the mode to "grams", but it only shows increments of 5, as in 5, 10, 15, etc.
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
I just saw the auction, looks good to me. As far as taking it down, I can understand your concern of this potential buyer emailing ebay. As long as I was confident its genuine, I would let the auction run.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Pillar of the Community
United States
952 Posts |
i agree.....it is nothing more than a looker asking a question. Looks like a typical nic-a-dated coin And I don't see why ebay would pull the ad even if there is a complaint unless they have good reason to believe it's fake.
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Valued Member
Canada
268 Posts |
I look upon these "restored" buffaloes as fillers. The buyer knows exactly what he is purchasing. Unfortunately, the next person may not. The surprise is down the road when someone tries to get it graded and it comes back in a "body bag".
A 1913 D is not a collector coin as much as an investment. Next time only restore the date. In my opinion, restoring the horn becomes far more deceptive to the actual grade. I grade my Buffaloes horn first. Again, only my opinion.
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Valued Member
United States
225 Posts |
restored is restored, they don't look like normally circulated coins. I say leave it along as long as your description is correct and you know it is real.
Your 13-D looks like an 18-D. Do you have the wrong image?
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Valued Member
Canada
268 Posts |
Exactly my point arsave. Yes, I agree the coin does not look normal compared to a circulated coin to an experienced collector. But since it has been chemically altered it opens a whole new set of questions. Such as "is it a 1913 or a 1918?" The real question weerdsteev is why do you restore the coins, date and horn, and then list them on ebay for sale? One would assume to turn a profit. I'm an old timer and I always get edgy on restored or altered coins being sold without the coin being stamped. Your title states, "THE KEY! 1913 S Type 2 Buffalo nickel with a full horn". When you read the description you realize the coin is NOT a real full horn. The only full horn is the one artificially created. I also question whether the coin is even a 1913-S. Sorry weerdsteev, but I'm not comfortable with altered coins flooding the market under any pretense. Caveat emptor I guess?!?
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
Quote: but I'm not comfortable with altered coins flooding the market under any pretense But he clearly states what the coin is, and clearly explains the process. These are much cheaper for a beginning collector or someone that wants to fill that hole with a budget. Of course these are worth no where near the price of an original coin. BTW, it is clearly a 1913-S TY.2 The 3 is typically flat on top, and rounded on bottom.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Valued Member
Canada
268 Posts |
Hi vermontensium, how can you be absolutely certain the coin is a 1913-S TY.2 if it has been altered and/or restored?
Yes, weerdsteev clearly states the coin has been restored in the description.
The buyer knows that the coin has been altered.
What happens if it ends up in an estate without documentation?
I collect Buffaloes and I can't afford a "real" 1913-S ... life sucks. If I ever get the opportunity to afford a 1913-S I want to be sure, as possible, the coin is genuine.
Cheaper doesn't make it the right. Think long term folks.
Sorry weerdsteev and vermontensium, there is no way anyone can convince me that this is good for future of the hobby.
Altered and/or restored coins should be stamped as so.
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
That's fine. Everyone is entitled to their opinion :-) BTW, I just had ANACS authenticate a 1918/7-D "altered" Buffalo nickel. I usually sell chemically restored coins for 20% of G4 value.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Valued Member
Canada
268 Posts |
Hi vermontensium, I agree 100%. The exchange of opinions is what the forum is all about.
What bugs me is when it gets personal. This has been a great exchange!
I see your point but I'm still conerned if the restored coins get into the general population.
I didn't realize that ANACS would even slab an "altered" coins.
Will the other major grading services do the same?
What is ANACS's comment on the slab when it comes to altered Buffaloes?
I have collected Buffaloes for years. Being in Canada it's a bit of a challenge.
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
ANACS designates on the holder "chemically treated" I think. Let me see if I have a picture of that holder. PCGS will authenticate and put in a genuine slab. Not sure about NGC or ICG, never submitted to them. Chemically restored Buffs are easy to differentiate from original, non restored coins.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1291 Posts |
Well, this has turned interesting since I left my PC for the Super Bowl...! Arsave and Meldercat: No, my 13-D's are most definitely not 18-Ds. As Vermontensium points out, the tops of the 4th digits are flat. That might happen on a 7 or a 5, but not on an 8. Meldercat, I appreciate your concerns, although I must say that I am more than a little resentful of your caveat emptor comment. I am not sleazy. I do not take advantage of the young, the feeble or the ignorant. You asked why I do what I do: I do it because it's fun and because it is self sustaining. You say that you're an old-timer. Are you old enough to remember going through your change and maybe that of your parents or siblings back in the days when "cool" finds were pretty routine? Before all the good stuff disappeared from circulation? Are you THAT old? Well, I am! But those days of great finds have NOT ended for me. Any time I can find an hour or two to spare I head for the basement with a hundred nickels or so and I'm back in those good old days. I gotta tell you, it is so cool to turn up a 1913-S T2 or a 1914-D or even the occasional overdate. It's like a treasure hunt that almost always bears treasures. When I'm bringing back those dates, I'm livin' the dream, baby. I'm back in 1963. And yeah...I bring ‘em back as far as I can...date...horn...sometimes even a split tail. Why do anything if you don't intend to do it well? (Us old-timers say stuff like THAT, you know....) And yeah...I sell some of them on ebay. The better looking ones. Those are the ones that help me sustain this habit and make up for so many (at 60 cents apiece!) that end up in the cull bucket. You said you get edgy when altered coins like these are not stamped. Stamped with what? "Fake"?.... "Copy"...? They're real coins. Those are NOT dates of MY choosing you see on the nickels I restore. I don't have a tool to stamp horns onto the bison's head. Puh-lease don't say that you want them stamped as "altered" or "restored". If that's what you're looking for then let's do that for "cleaned" and "artificially toned" and "whizzed" and...hey, why not the grade? Stamp it VG and no one will ever mistake it for a Fine! Vermontensium is right-on with everything he said. 1.) That is definitely a 1913-S T2 in my ebay listing. 2.) These restorations are great as hole fillers for folks on a budget. Not everyone thinks so. You're one of those who don't. That's okay! 3.) ANACs will GLADLY certify them as genuine. I hope to get an overdate back from them tomorrow and when I do I'll post a photo to this thread. Again I appreciate your concerns, but not your insinuation. If you look at my rating, my DSR's and the feedback I have on ebay you should realize I didn't get there by being sleazy.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
I think its the chemical process that makes it look like a spark erosion counterfeit. I don't think its a counterfeit but can see why someone looking at it may have questions about it if they don't understand the coin has been chemically altered
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3592 Posts |
Your listing fully discloses everything. No need to worry or change anything.
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Replies: 31 / Views: 6,029 |