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fenton Pillar of the Community United States 4989 Posts	Posted 03/21/2011 5:35 pm One other thing to consider - do you REALLY want to own a bunch of low grade coins at melt value that have active PVC damage? If I were bidding on this I'd probably find any key dates that do not have PVC damage, add up the grey sheet values of those, bid those @ grey, and bid everything else at what my local dealer is paying for scrap silver (way below melt!) Edited by fenton 03/21/2011 5:36 pm Report this Post to the Staff
schnauzer Valued Member United States 212 Posts	Posted 03/22/2011 03:14 am I like the suggestion of just figuring melt value for all the silver. If you get the coins based on that figured price and then find some of better grade than melt, then all the better. That one Walking Liberty half pictured (the one on the right) is probably a VF just from what I could see and judging from the obverse But if it has environmental damage, then again, a different story. Silver value? Take $1 face value of coins. 10 dimes or 4 quarters or 2 halves. Multiply .71 X current silver spot. So if silver spot is $35.80: 35.80 X .71 = $25.42 On Morgan and Peace dollars, use the number .77 The .71 and the .77 remain constant. Only the silver spot price will change from day to day. Report this Post to the Staff
biggfredd Rest in Peace United States 9104 Posts	Posted 03/22/2011 05:45 am One possible edge is those $3-4 prices on the pictured halves, indicating old pricing. If you want the bullion, figure melt on it, and 50% of any semi-keys. I say 50% because you will prolly overgrade. I went to a 3pm coin auction in a senior center, only about 20 people there, but one was a dealer who had a customer @ spot, so if he could make 50 cents or so on a coin, he'd buy it. Very little common stuff brought more than spot, and most of the bidders were buying silver to hoard. Report this Post to the Staff
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