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Replies: 63 / Views: 7,277 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
723 Posts |
I am using one or two "daylight" 40W flourescents at high angle. F-10 Shooting in SHQ (tryed RAW, but that didn't work for me) Olympus E-510 Aperature Priority. ISO100. Custom White Balance. On a good camera stand. Well, see for yourself; https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/pho...t=directlink It's not what I want. I want to capture the beauty of the coin (this coin is pretty) and the luster. Any suggestions? Jon
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1256 Posts |
Not an expert and not much experience with silvery stuff but...
Sharpen can make the image grainy. I don't use it unless I'm trying to see buried detail (like a cruddy ancient). If you are trying to fix focus, do it at the camera not the software.
You might try lowering the angle of the 2 side lamps and place a 3rd lamp directly over head. Try defusing the light with a tent of white plastic etc. It seems too direct and overpowering on the high points.
I saw that the image size is 1286Ã- 1188 pixels. Did you crop to this size? or was it bigger to start with?
Try every setting and take notes. Practice practice practice.
Good luck and keep posting.
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Valued Member
United States
70 Posts |
I used to have that same camera. Which lens are you using; one of the kit lenses?
If you're using two light sources, lower your aperature and increase your shutter speed. That will get you more detail. Keep the lights at the highest angle possible and closest to your lens; then move both lights around the lens and play with the different effects that it will generate.
If you're wanting to bring out color or toning, then try an axial lighting setup.
However, if you're using the kit lenses by themselves, you'll have a hard time capturing an image that you'll be pleased with. Olympus e-series uses the 4/3 lenses and leaves only a couple of expenssive options for macro photography.
-LTB
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
723 Posts |
Here is one that is unretouched. https://picasaweb.google.com/118012...134172038850 Light from both sides, shot in JPEG (SHQ), f-6.3 That is uncropped, that is as close as I can get with my current lense. I will have the lense details later today, as to exactly what I am shooting with. LTB, you have me worried. What is a good Macro solution for my camera? I have done axial lighting and gotten pretty much the same results. Soft, looks like it is out of focus, no detail. I want this sucker to pop! I was shooting in "RAW" the last time I used the axial lighting setup. Next thing I am going to do is shoot JPEGS through the axial glass. Anyhoo, this is fun, I will keep posting. https://picasaweb.google.com/118012...134172038850
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Valued Member
United States
70 Posts |
Try to keep your aperature low and increase the shutter speed to a minimum of 1/100, add, take away lights, move them around, try to diffuse lighting as another post stated, and use all 10mp in your camera.
It sounds like you're using the kit lenses? What I should've said is that you're more limited to lenses because of the 4/3 system...IMO a true macro solution for just about all manufacturers is expensive...I didn't mean to scare you. And keep in mind, that there are many photogs on this forum that get fantastic images with point & shoots as well as scanners. Or maybe you could explore getting an inexpensive manual focus macro lens that will work with your evolt? Or an Opteka 10x lens that attaches to the end of your kit lens?
But here are the lenses that are recommended for your evolt.
Olmpus Ex 25 extension tube (with electronics) $114 used in combo with Olympus Zuiko 35mm macro lens $235 Olympus Zuiko 50mm macro lens $449
But if you're going to spend that kind of money, there are other lenses that will work like Sigma 105mm macro lens (and was about the same price as the 50mm)...but are also pricey.
I didn't have the kind $$$ to take the plunge on a nice lens recommended for macro coin photography either...so I sold my evolt with accessories/lenses, and bought a nikon d5000 and a manual focus nikkor 55mm macro lens for close to a straight across trade...and I have been very happy with the results thus far. I'm new to photography as well, and I'm learning new things all the time...most is from trial and error but it sure is fun!
-LTB
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
723 Posts |
OK, here is a couple shots with my axial setup, shooting JPEGS (rather than RAW) at F-10 and also at F-5.6 A little better, but stil not the detail I am looking for. I am capturing glare, rather than luster. I cropped them, but have not altered them in any way. LTB, the lens I am using is the Zuiko 14-42mm that came with the camera. I also have a longer lens, but no way will it work with my setup. I would like to fill the frame with the coin, but am not able to do that with the current lense. If a Ex 25 is in my future, it there any reason it would not work with my current lens? Photos; https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/pho...t=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/pho...t=directlink
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Valued Member
United States
70 Posts |
Hey man, you're your toughest critic...using the kit lens and imaging a highly reflective surface, those are very good images. IMO, I would start off imaging non-reflective coins such as copper just so you can get familiar with your setup, camera, lighting, sharp/detailed images, as well as the software you're using. Then work your way up to reflective coins. Regarding the ex-25, it will definitely "work" with your lenses, but I don't have any experience with it and don't want to be responsible for you pulling the trigger based on something that I said. Go to Amazon.com and look at some of the pics and the reviews on it. It appears most that left feedback were using it with their 40/150mm kit lens? I've tried the cheapie $8 extension tubes off ebay, coupled with the Opteka 10x lens attachment, and it got me the 1:1 ratio that I was after (using the 14/42 kit lens), but with any of the 4/3 lens, if there's no electronics in the extension tubes to power your lens, then your focus ring doesn't work. And it took me so many shots just to get a sharp image; using only the zoom and inching the entire camera up and down, I just got more and more frustrated. What made it even more frustrating is that I had a full version of the software (I think it was called Olympus Master Studio or something like that) that allowed me to tether my camera to the pc and view and store images directly to the pc. But it kept crashing...and it sucked my battery dry in no time. So then entered my nikon and I'm happy with the results. I still have LOTS to learn as my images are far from perfect or where I want them to be...but half the fun is getting there right ;) Here's the most recent copper that I imaged for use in another thread...a 1918 woody...  -LTB
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Valued Member
United States
380 Posts |
You definitely are your toughest critic... those photos are passable for many.
Like you, I strive for perfection... Like everyone else was saying, you really need to play around with the lighting. Move the lights around and really try to figure out what you are trying to accomplish.
Use white foam core as reflectors, use pieces of paper to shoot through to soften the light/ make the light source larger.
Really experiment and see what happens...
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Valued Member
United States
70 Posts |
If you want a dedicated macro lens, just get an OM 50mm macro. They go for around $50 on ebay plus around $20 for an adapter. I've never understood why people pay so much more for an autofocus macro lens.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
723 Posts |
I have a few old OM lenses laying around, along with a 2X teleconverter thing. Hmmm . . . .
I really am not happy with my results. I have the adapter coming, will move the lights around a bit.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
723 Posts |
Louie, how did you get that photo on the site? HTML magic? I am jacking around with exposure. I am set on shutter priority @ 2 seconds, and playing with the exposure compensation. Waaaay over my head. This one was shot minus 4. Next step is to go full manual. Boldly go where no Jon has gone before . . . . . pray for me. Anyhoo, I am getting a bit closer. These with my axial lighting setup. Will try some manual lenses when I get my adapter.  Link to full size: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/pho...t=directlink
Edited by Jon K 04/04/2011 09:02 am
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: I am jacking around with exposure. I am set on shutter priority @ 2 seconds, and playing with the exposure compensation. Waaaay over my head.
This one was shot minus 4. What you're doing there are two settings which offset each other. The exposure compensation effectively changed the 2-second exposure to a half-second exposure, or faster. Remember, all of these bewildering settings are aimed at the exact same thing: getting the right amount of light on a nicely-focused coin. If you go full manual, lose the exposure compensation entirely. Don't needlessly complicate the process. With axial lighting, and the evidence I can see from your images, set the exposure to about 1/4 and try to adjust the aperture to bring the image to "bright enough." I fear you'll lose the lower part of the coin to washout before LIBERTY will show up with enough contrast to satisfy you. If you simply can't get a brighter coin, you are perfectly OK to go to ISO200 or even 400, which will shed a whole bunch more light on the coin. Something that requires 1/4 @ ISO100 will only require (roughly) 1/50 @ ISO400. Frankly, I like the results you were getting with the two 40's better. With them, I'd say play with aperture until you find the best depth of field, keeping the coin in focus. Then, play with exposure until you get lighting you like.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
723 Posts |
Okay Dave, I did all that real good. Now my brain hurts. One thing for sure, I am having to figure out my camera! I am liking the manual mode, sorta takes me back to the seventies and my old Yashica. I will get them downloaded and post a few tomorrow.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
If you used to shoot manual with film, then you already understand the incremental learning process and the basic concepts of photography. The downside is, you're probably not going to be satisfied without throwing more money at your camera kit.  Olympus dedicated Macro solutions are not very cost-effective for the improvement. The glass is great, but not cheap. I'm guessing a teleconverter might be an appropriate experiment for you, understanding I don't know what the cost might be. Louie_two_bits needs to be listened to; he's obviously already been down the Olympus road. The only thing I would add/modify his comments is concerning aperture; macro photography is going to want you to stop down and you probably won't get the whole field of the coin into focus any wider than f/5.6(ish) with a dSLR. I'm unable to achieve results I like with f/4.0 or faster.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
723 Posts |
Got my adapter, so I dug up an old 50mm lense. Settled on F-8 and got this after a few tries. Single lamp, ISO100 .125S I'm liking it better . . . . still not sure I am capturing the "personality". Tomorrow, I will try my axial setup. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/pho...t=directlink
Edited by Jon K 04/09/2011 12:39 am
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Valued Member
United States
289 Posts |
I see all the shine and luster
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Replies: 63 / Views: 7,277 |