Coin Community Family of Web Sites Join Thousands of Coin, Bullion, & Money Collectors
Vancouvers #1 Coin and Paper Money Dealer Specializing in Modern Numismatics Join Thousands of Coin, Bullion, & Money Collectors 300,000 items to help build your collection! Royal Estate Auctions - $1 Coin AuctionsCoin, Banknote and Medal Collectors's Online Mall Royal Canadian Mint products, Canadian, Polish, American, and world coins and banknotes.








Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?


This page may contain links that result in small commissions to keep this free site up and running.

Welcome Guest! Registering and/or logging in will remove the anchor (bottom) ads. It's Free!

Melting Solder Off Of Classic Gold?

To participate in the forum you must log in or register.
Author Previous TopicReplies: 23 / Views: 8,575Next Topic
Page: of 2
Valued Member
United States
459 Posts
 Posted 04/09/2011  07:42 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nybird to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'd send it back also, the melt value is too far from what you paid. It is real nice looking even with the spot, but he should have told you.

Another possibility is if he would refund part of your money, then the post office wouldn't be the only one to benefit from the transaction, and you both could end up happy.
Pillar of the Community
thq's Avatar
United States
3343 Posts
 Posted 08/08/2016  11:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add thq to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I read this thread a few days ago. I won an 1860-S dollar with the remains of a post on the reverse. Using some copper wick and 450C setting on the soldering iron, I was able to remove some of the surface solder and improve the visibility of the 0 in the date. But I couldn't budge the post. I asked a jeweler about using a torch instead of an iron. He thought grinding was the only thing that would work.
"Two minutes ago I would have sold my chances for a tired dime." Fred Astaire
Pillar of the Community
thq's Avatar
United States
3343 Posts
 Posted 08/15/2016  5:11 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add thq to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm now working on Plan B as described in another thread. I purchased some silver test solution and applied a couple drops to the post. Both the coin and the post itself are completely unreactive. The solder around the post is very reactive, and releases lots of fine powdery red silt into the solution. The same red color results from treating a worn sterling shilling, so it appears the post is probably gold and attached to the coin with silver solder. I'm hoping that after multiple acid treatments the post will fall off the coin.

Unfortunately this isn't going to result in something like the 1851-C discussed in that thread. As the solder dissolves it is obvious that the jeweler ground a pit into the coin's reverse to anchor the post. So the only part of the 1860 date left is the 0.

Oh well. It's still a rare coin.
"Two minutes ago I would have sold my chances for a tired dime." Fred Astaire
Edited by thq
08/15/2016 5:14 pm
Bedrock of the Community
sel_69l's Avatar
Australia
21788 Posts
 Posted 08/15/2016  7:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you are going to remove the silver with a silver test acid solution,
beware:
American gold is alloyed with 10% copper.

The silver test solution may well eat the alloying copper out of the surface of the coin itself, and leave the coin more damaged than when you began.
Pillar of the Community
thq's Avatar
United States
3343 Posts
 Posted 08/15/2016  10:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add thq to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
After about 20 solution changes the post, or what was left of it, finally popped off the coin. So the solution method seems to work better than the soldering iron. After a few more drops the LL of DOLLAR became weakly visible, along with a little bit of the 6 in 1860.

While the solder reacted rapidly with the solder, it never showed any reaction with the gold itself, possibly due to the short contact times (2-5 minutes).

Here's the thread on the solder removal from the 1851-C and some pictures of a cleaned up 1862. My coin cleaned up as well as these, but there is far more damage due to the jeweler's prep for the post.

https://goccf.com/t/135785&whichpage=2
"Two minutes ago I would have sold my chances for a tired dime." Fred Astaire
Edited by thq
08/15/2016 10:49 pm
Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
1351 Posts
 Posted 08/15/2016  11:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add peter1234 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I have a 1798 guinea with solder in 2 of the millings. Thanks Sel for your advice...the solder stays.
New Member
lightguy's Avatar
United States
16 Posts
 Posted 09/02/2016  8:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lightguy to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Valuewise wouldn't the price be the same before and after ?
Pillar of the Community
CoinHuntingDrew's Avatar
United States
4932 Posts
 Posted 09/02/2016  11:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinHuntingDrew to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Necro bump - please create your own thread.
  Previous TopicReplies: 23 / Views: 8,575Next Topic
Page: of 2

To participate in the forum you must log in or register.



    




Disclaimer: While a tremendous amount of effort goes into ensuring the accuracy of the information contained in this site, Coin Community assumes no liability for errors. Copyright 2005 - 2026 Coin Community Family- all rights reserved worldwide. Use of any images or content on this website without prior written permission of Coin Community or the original lender is strictly prohibited.
Contact Us  |  Advertise Here  |  Privacy Policy / Terms of Use

Coin Community Forum © 2005 - 2026 Coin Community Forums
It took 0.31 seconds to rattle this change. Forums