| Author |
Replies: 23 / Views: 8,577 |
Page 2 of 2
|
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
2589 Posts |
So far hes agreed to give me a refund, but if he fails to do so I do plan on opening a case against him. He claims he did not see the soder spots on the coin which is obviously a lie since the pictured I provided above are the ones from the listing lol.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
759 Posts |
Somewhat similar experience here with a Type III gold dollar. What is it with gold dollars? Anyway, seller failed to mention edge solder from jewelry mount. Also claimed he didn't see it. Refund offered but I ultimately kept it since it went for $90. Yours looks really nice otherwise. Good luck.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
2589 Posts |
Yea I'm fairly certain it would be high au or low ms without the soder, I was very diappointed when it arrived. I would have kept it for ninty dollars as well, though I think $150 is much to high to simply keep it
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Quote: What is it with gold dollars? The small size made them very popular for use in jewelery.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2335 Posts |
I have a gold dollar that was used in at least 2 pieces of jewelry over the years. I bought it in a ring & when I removed it from the mount the reverse had twin spots of solder.
|
|
Valued Member
United States
459 Posts |
What is the gold value on this type of coin?
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
759 Posts |
At $1475 spot, I have the gold melt at $71.35.
0.048375 ounce of gold.
Xavier..you should be OK if the seller has agreed to a refund. I hope it works out for you.
|
|
Valued Member
United States
459 Posts |
I'd send it back also, the melt value is too far from what you paid. It is real nice looking even with the spot, but he should have told you.
Another possibility is if he would refund part of your money, then the post office wouldn't be the only one to benefit from the transaction, and you both could end up happy.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3343 Posts |
I read this thread a few days ago. I won an 1860-S dollar with the remains of a post on the reverse. Using some copper wick and 450C setting on the soldering iron, I was able to remove some of the surface solder and improve the visibility of the 0 in the date. But I couldn't budge the post. I asked a jeweler about using a torch instead of an iron. He thought grinding was the only thing that would work.
"Two minutes ago I would have sold my chances for a tired dime." Fred Astaire
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3343 Posts |
I'm now working on Plan B as described in another thread. I purchased some silver test solution and applied a couple drops to the post. Both the coin and the post itself are completely unreactive. The solder around the post is very reactive, and releases lots of fine powdery red silt into the solution. The same red color results from treating a worn sterling shilling, so it appears the post is probably gold and attached to the coin with silver solder. I'm hoping that after multiple acid treatments the post will fall off the coin.
Unfortunately this isn't going to result in something like the 1851-C discussed in that thread. As the solder dissolves it is obvious that the jeweler ground a pit into the coin's reverse to anchor the post. So the only part of the 1860 date left is the 0.
Oh well. It's still a rare coin.
"Two minutes ago I would have sold my chances for a tired dime." Fred Astaire
Edited by thq 08/15/2016 5:14 pm
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
If you are going to remove the silver with a silver test acid solution, beware: American gold is alloyed with 10% copper.
The silver test solution may well eat the alloying copper out of the surface of the coin itself, and leave the coin more damaged than when you began.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3343 Posts |
After about 20 solution changes the post, or what was left of it, finally popped off the coin. So the solution method seems to work better than the soldering iron. After a few more drops the LL of DOLLAR became weakly visible, along with a little bit of the 6 in 1860. While the solder reacted rapidly with the solder, it never showed any reaction with the gold itself, possibly due to the short contact times (2-5 minutes). Here's the thread on the solder removal from the 1851-C and some pictures of a cleaned up 1862. My coin cleaned up as well as these, but there is far more damage due to the jeweler's prep for the post. https://goccf.com/t/135785&whichpage=2
"Two minutes ago I would have sold my chances for a tired dime." Fred Astaire
Edited by thq 08/15/2016 10:49 pm
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
1351 Posts |
I have a 1798 guinea with solder in 2 of the millings. Thanks Sel for your advice...the solder stays.
|
|
New Member
United States
16 Posts |
Valuewise wouldn't the price be the same before and after ?
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4932 Posts |
Necro bump - please create your own thread.
|
|
Page 2 of 2
|
Replies: 23 / Views: 8,577 |
Page 2 of 2
|