Extra Thickness Or Coin Wear

Ask, post pics,rinse,repeat...in other words..experience

I'm glad this was brought up. I even have trouble when seeing listed
DDO's etc. with attribute pics. of extra thickness. I can stare at the pics. for an hour and see no doubling whatsoever. I'm sure it will have to do with die state/stages and metal flow etc. But still tough to distinquish.

Thank coop. I appreciate the pics. Specifically I was referring to a DD that shows no separation or notching. Take the 1940-P (Daughtrey 1940P-1DO-001 CONECA 2-O-VI) for example. The description is extra thickness on the date and LIBERTY. I don't want to link to Chuck's photo without his permission, but if you look it up, you can see no notching just extra width. This is just one example, there are many that seem to have a similar description of "extra thickness". My problem seems to be differentiating this extra thickness from the normal spread as the coin is abused..... when there are no notches or "spread".... just thickness.

http://www.coppercoins.com/lincoln/...ie_state=mds
On the devices, they should all be the same width/height as the ones pictured in order to be from that die. The 9 on the date is a good place to start as well as the doubled die on the reverse. If they are not the same, then it wouldn't be that die number.

Generally in all cases, the following will be true:

1. On a class 6 doubled die the doubling will be stronger closer to the rim - so the extra thickness will show more on the L of LIBERTY than the R, for instance. On beaten down coins, the thickness will be more or less uniform all over the coin.

2. On a class 6 doubled die, the outer edges of the thickened devices that parallel the rim will often have a concave "pulled" effect near the corners. Pounding on a coin until the devices are thick never produces this effect.

3. Class 6 doubled dies ALWAYS show better thickness on device areas that are parallel with the rim. Usually the parts of the devices that are perpendicular with the rim are normal. So, for instance, the you of TRUST will have more or less normal uprights where the bottom will be extra thick. This effect is never repeated with pounding on a coin to thicken the devices.

4. VERY often, pounded coins show the wear in other ways to give you a hint that's what you are looking at. Pitting from hits, missing details because of the hits...something.

5. Class 6 doubled dies are generally the lesser valuable of all classes of hub doubling - primarily because they don't show separation and many people don't really understand what they are. This makes them less popular, thus less valuable over all. There are exceptions to this rule...BUT...given that class 6 doubled dies are generally not worth very much unless in higher grades, I would simply toss all the coins that are difficult to tell class 6 from pounding back in the reject pile. Even if they are class 6 doubled dies, they are going to be difficult to impossible to round down to a specific die number, thus are just too much trouble to bother with.

I normally pass over coins that are even obviously class 6 doubled dies unless they are at least a nice EF or better. If this is the case, you generally don't ever have to worry about thickened devices due to wear.

Chuck,

This was the exact info I was looking for, thanks. I had kinda given up looking for those class 6 because it IS just too difficult, at least for me to tell the difference.

BTW thanks for clearing up the picture thing, I just didn't want to cost you bandwidth without asking.