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1885-CC VAM

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mitchhailey's Avatar
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 Posted 06/01/2011  4:02 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add mitchhailey to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
For all of you VAM experts out there, I have a question.

First, I know I'm committing the Cardinal Sin of NOT posting a photo, however the coin is not mine and I couldn't get a pic of it, so please just bare with me and see if you can help anyhow.

I checked my VAM book and couldn't find anything on this particular coin.

My coin dealer has a GSA 1885-CC. It has what appears to be a very visible die break (maybe a crack, but you can see it without magnification, no problem) from Liberty's curls to the #1 star on the right.

The break is in a fairly straight line, from her curls just between the last date digit (5) and #1 star. I hope you can get the idea from my description, if not, just ask a question and I'll help if I can (since I don't have the coin in hand).

Thanks for your patience. I knew this would be the place to ask since I know how knowledgable you VAM guys are!

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 Posted 06/01/2011  8:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zeewool to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Mitch, (bad news first)...... unless someone has an example of this same coin with the crack, I highly doubt that anyone will be able to identify the variety without a closeup picture of the date.

Now the good news..... to the best of my limited knowledge, there are only three varieties of 1885 CC Morgans..... The very best person to determine which variety this coin is would be YOU..... you can look at the photos of these three varieties as well as a VAM expert.... here is the link:

http://www.vamworld.com/1885-CC+VAMs

I do not think that vam-1 exists.... so scratch it off as a possibility.

Vams-2 and 2a are the same die pair, so unless you have clashing on the reverse, you can scratch vam-2a off the list...... so what you have left are vams 2, 3, and 4.

Zero in on the date only (forget die cracks which are not only unlistable, but can occur at any time in the life of a die)...... vam-4 has a very heavy dash under the second '8'...... vam-2 has a substantially lighter dash in the same location...... vam-3 has no dash under the second '8'.

Look at the photos of the dates on all three of these varities on VW..... it should be super simple to memorize these three date varieties before you return to the dealer.... one quick glance at the date through a loupe will tell you which one it is.
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mitchhailey's Avatar
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 Posted 06/02/2011  12:16 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mitchhailey to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Your the man, Zee.

I was hoping you would be one of the guys to answer since I've seen a lot of your postings.

I'll go back tomorrow and A) Try to get some pics and B) I'll check the date more closely. I had the wife and daughter waiting in the car for me so I only got to glance at it. I offered to buy it, but he wants to know the VAM first (probably thinks there will be a premium on it).

Thanks for the reply. I'll get back to you tomorrow if you get a chance to revisit this posting.
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 Posted 06/02/2011  11:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zeewool to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Heh, I am very far from being 'the man' Mitch..... in fact, I really don't know much at all about vams (maybe just enough to make me dangerous)....

(From what I can ascertain, only the vam-4 holds a premium over the other two)....Good luck with the negotiations!
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 06/02/2011  12:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Not to mention, you're not a man, but who's counting?

The only thing I'll add to zeewool's sage advice is to be very careful regarding grade. VAM-4, as zee mentions, *might* be worth a small premium - note the single sale mentioned at VAMworld did not show a premium over grade value. Furthermore, GSA 1885-CC's aren't uncommon; I note that NGC-graded GSA slabs sold at Heritage don't carry much premium over grade either.

With that said, these are kinda pricey for their commonality (available up to MS66 - it's far tougher to find a circulated 1885-CC), so your ability to grade is an important factor in deciding price.
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mitchhailey's Avatar
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 Posted 06/02/2011  8:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mitchhailey to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Here are those photos...as good as I could get with a 16x loupe and my canon digital.

It does have a dash under the second eight, although it isn't the 'thick' dash.

And Zee, sorry if my gender specific comments were off the mark! lol You may not be a VAM 'pro', but I still really appreciate your help. You're good in my book (which is due out next fall..ok, maybe not).

Thanks to you too, Dave. I think it is a 63, and he wants $650 for it (although he was talking about a $50 premium for the die crack...go figure).



1885-CC-VAM

1885-CC-VAM

1885-CC-VAM

1885-CC-VAM

1885-CC-VAM

1885-CC-VAM

1885-CC-VAM
Edited by mitchhailey
06/02/2011 9:35 pm
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aladinslamp's Avatar
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 Posted 06/02/2011  11:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add aladinslamp to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I will go out on a limb, as I believe I have matched this to VAM 2A, however yours has a later die state than the photos shown on Vamworld, as this one has the additional radial crack...the more I look its 2A all day long, and as there are only 5 total vams, I have 2A LDS as a lock, I don't know if the radial crack does anything for the VAM and VAM 4 is the supposed renouned VAM for the series, I think you got a winner, but with the pictures I can't tell what the grade is, looks a lock for MS63, possibly c5, but the reverse photo's are not clean enough to see its full detail.. nice find...how ever I would not buy the coin hoping for a killer coin, but rather its actual grade value plus a small premium...as the price of vams are down, and the retail list isn't going to cash you out if you decide to sell..what ever the MS grade is its a good value for the money but not much more...
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 Posted 06/03/2011  12:02 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zeewool to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Ah, the pictures tell a different story....(to me)..... I would say that at first glance (with my idiotic thoughts on "forget die cracks"), this is either vam-2 or vam-2a (although I don't see the clashing that might be expected from 2a)...... That obv radial crack coupled with the apparent lack of rev clashing (between the bird's left wing and the top leaf clusters of the wreath) seemed odd.

To me, it looks as though the neck point is pointing directly at a denticle (rather than between two denticles, as on the VW photo)..... I looked at the obv cracks next..... not the same as the VW photo of vam-2 or VAM 2a (but this is definitely neither vams 3 or 4 either).

The reverse looks to be that of vam-2, but the obv is something else (unless it is the faint dash under the 8 that is the defining feature of this VAM designation).

Could even such a simple year and mm, (with only three or four VAM designations), be another fatality to the die classification virus? I can understand that if there can be no distinction made between two dies, then they could be considered the same, but when two dies are obviously different, why not make the distinction official?

Is there a possibility that this may be an important coin, or is it a multi-die VAM?

edited to add:

Hey Gene... How have you been Buddy? You've got some water up in Montana right about now don't you?
Edited by zeewool
06/03/2011 12:10 am
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mitchhailey's Avatar
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 Posted 06/03/2011  12:20 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mitchhailey to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I know the photos aren't that great, so I do apologize.

I thought the lack of clashing on the reverse was odd...and the clashing on the obverse is a little more prominent in-hand.

I'm not buying the coin for investment purposes. I need a GSA '85 for my GSA set, and this one is somewhat unique and in fairly good condition so that is why I'm going to get it.

I am still a novice when it comes to VAMs, but I'm trying. I respect you guys (and girls) for your obvious passion on the subject and your willingness to put some real thought and research into your posts. It makes me feel good about choosing this forum over all others.

So, if we're talking about a VAM 2 or 2A in '63 for someone who wants to keep the coin in their collection for the next 50 years (assuming I live to see 80!), what would be a reasonable price range in your opinions?

And on a side note, Aladin, I thought I read on one of your posts that you are up here in the Pacific Northwest also?
Edited by mitchhailey
06/03/2011 12:25 am
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 Posted 06/03/2011  01:48 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zeewool to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Everyone knows about grading and value except for me Mitch.

Now that the weather is warm, I spend most of my time outside, and I only have time to read some threads, and the ones that I do respond to, I usually hijack and carry way off track..... I am trying not to do that here, so let me just say that if the dealer wants to know what VAM it is before he will sell to you (a very unique concept in my opinion), then let it be vam-2 or 2a..... but, I could see your particular coin going any one of three ways if it were submitted to the supreme designator of vams.....

It could be called vam-2 if the clashed 'n' is not transferred.

It might be vam-2a if there is a letter transfer.

It might be an entirely new VAM as I really do not believe that your obverse is that of vams 2 or 2a (and definitely not 3 or 4).
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 Posted 06/03/2011  02:13 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add aladinslamp to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm with Zee, and by the way I was in the Pacific North west but I have moved to Montana.. I think the coin is clearly VAM 2 I say 2A LDS but with your photo's, I still think I am on the mark but it doesn't matter..the coins GRADE does, and with your photo's and today's standards are the KEY. to what you need to pay...I will guess if its a GSA coin its probably a $550 $6oo coin a few years back...
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 Posted 06/03/2011  02:26 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mitchhailey to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Zee, your lucky. The weather still stinks here in Washington so its mainly indoors with the coins for me.

I don't think his selling it is dependant on the VAM (he doesn't even like VAMs, or varieties and errors for that matter). I'm under the impression he is hoping to squeeze a few extra bucks out of it. If it went to NGC I think it would come back a 63 or 64, depending on the grader and what kind of day he is having.

Thanks again for the help. I hope you are enjoying Montana, Gene. My wife and I have been talking about moving there for some time now.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 06/03/2011  11:55 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The available reverse detail is consistent with 2A; I base this impression on the cracking I can see in the northeast quadrant of the coin. I cannot see any clashing on the reverse; doesn't mean it isn't there.

The obverse matches nothing. Note the detail pic where the clash is shown. That image, were this a late die state coin, should clearly show a strong crack from the point of the first star to the neck.

It does not.

The radial crack next to the date is mentioned in no description of any 1885-CC VAM. It cannot appear, while the known left-side star cracks go away - that's just not possible. The date location is consistent with 2/2A.

"Dash under date" Morgans are known in a few dates. What causes the dash?

This is not a known obverse for 1885-CC.

The asking price of $650 is a strong number for an MS64 GSA coin.
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 Posted 06/04/2011  10:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zeewool to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yeah Dave, ...that is exactly what I was trying to say (really)... I just can't relate as well as you.... (well, that's my story anyway, and I'm stickin' to it).


Quote:
What causes the dash?


I don't know, I just assumed that it's origin had already be decided.

Could it have something to do with metal displacement in the master die or working hub if the dash is found under the third digit or specifically the second '8'? Were not the first three digits supposedly imprinted simultaneously, while the last digit was added later? (I could be way off on that)..... Personally, I have not seen any date yet that would lead me to think that all four of the digits were not applied at the same time.

I still think that there must have been a more mechanized method for impressing the date into the design than a hammer and hand punch.

Edited by zeewool
06/04/2011 10:55 pm
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 06/04/2011  11:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Consulted the Encyclopedia, answered my own question.

After 1879, the last two digits were removed from the Master Hub. Leroy mentions that, although the dash differs somewhat in its' relation to the 8 in various dates, it's always centered on the 10th denticle from the neck vee. It was a locating mark for punching the last two date digits, usually removed by basining.
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 Posted 06/05/2011  02:31 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add aladinslamp to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
while I SEE the 2A REVERSE,is confirmed.... I have to agree the Obverse is something new...
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