Just Obtained- 1928 P MS-63 Peace Dollar

Wonder why they would tell you that? I am currently building a set of Peace dollars and I am sure there are more on this forum that are doing the same thing.

Do your own thing and build the set if you want to. As long as you are enjoying yourself, thats all that matters.

Love to see a pic of your 28 Peace dollar.

Forgive our manners ... to the forum.

Are you able to show a photo of that Peace dollar? We enjoy pictures and can offer the best help with a photo.




Count me as one of them ... slowly building an MS set and truly enjoying the challenge.

David

Here's why

If you are goal-oriented, you are harder to sell to. The dealer has to meet your needs, not his.

If you're willing to take "advice" you end up with 35 ms63 28 peace, an xf overdate bust half, and some rolls of Mercury dimes. That's not a coin collection, that's a pile of coins.

You have every motivation to complete the Peace set now, having already acquired one of the two "stoppers" in the 1928-P. Aside the 1921, the rest will be inexpensive-enough in similar grade that you can afford to be picky about getting the "right" coin for your tastes.

The 1921 will be tougher, of course, but there are plenty on the market. Be picky here, too. Strike quality varies widely, as does demand for individual coins. The 1921 Peace is an "early adopter" coin, sometimes subject to the bidding whim of people who decide to "go coin collecting" on a lark.

Peace dollars are, generally, not the most visually-stunning of designs. I really can't call myself a fan. However, when you can find them with clean fields and (relatively rare) nice luster and strike, you have something pretty special.

For the record, a price fair to both buyer and seller for a slabbed MS63 1928-P is in the $700-750 range.

Here is front of my Peace dollar.

I wouldn't be so discouraged, yet.

I derive my pricing opinions for coins of this caliber primarily from real-world Heritage Auctions results if a sufficient number exist; in this case, they did. If not, I branch out into other selling venues and attempt to take an average. Outliers exist on both ends.

Even if you overpaid today, you overpaid for a coin which may be counted on to remain at the top curve of price appreciation in the long term. It's a known rarity, subject to great demand, with easy liquidity due to that demand and graded by the company whose slabs command the highest price in the marketplace.

So, in that sense, it's far easier for me to be the bearer of bad tidings for you than for those who we've had to tell they just wasted thousands of dollars. Your timeframe may have just extended itself into the realm of "many years," but you can reasonably expect your investment to recoup in the future.

Others are far less lucky. Yours is a valuable lesson from a recoverable mistake.

It's....a start.

Indications are your camera can be made to work nicely with coins. We have a forum for this, and some existing tutorials on basic coin photography setup. If you'd like, throw these images into a new thread in that forum, mention what particular camera you're using, and we'll be happy to work on maximizing your results.




That's a basic truth.




That's another basic truth, and you're showing a steep learning curve. You're gonna be fine.

devin -

numismedia shows a 63 (not a high 63, which is cac) at $930. If it really bothers you, see if you can return it, but that's another price point.

dave -

Is there a buyer premium on heritage stuff?