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Critique Lukky - Part 3

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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 07/26/2011  10:59 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
With all due respect, rmpsrpms, perhaps you're shooting the wrong brand.

If you go through every single image in my CCF Gallery (and I have the largest Gallery of any member) you won't see 10 images that were shot with manual focus. Not even a slab causes the Digital Rebel/100mm Macro combination to miss an autofocus. The only times I've ever played with manual focus were essentially to confirm the autofocus capability of the lens. With AF Mode set to One Shot and focus point forced to Center, it just plain gets it right every time.

This may, of course, be assisted by my habit of throwing huge piles of light at the coin.

Lukkyseven, rmpsrpms' use of the term "macro mode" is not a physical camera setting but a description of the field on which you're playing, so to speak. You're in "macro mode" because you're using your equipment in that fashion.

The "Quiet Mode" referred to here is actually intended to make the camera audibly quieter to use, for situations when you really don't want to have that snapping sound. Many cameras have it as a menu choice. The Digital Rebel series use this mode by default, always - it doesn't turn "on" or "off."

Here's how it works (your eyes may glaze over here):

Visualize a physical aperture inside a camera. A bunch of curved blades, forming a circular opening of a diameter determined by your Aperture setting. In the old days, this was the shutter, as well - when you actuate it, the blades snap open to that aperture diameter for a moment (your Exposure setting) and then close.

These days, they do it with curtains in front of and behind the physical aperture blades. The First Shutter Curtain (in front) and the Second Shutter Curtain (behind). These move horizontally in front of the sensor, starting on the same side and in the same direction. When you start the exposure, the first curtain snaps open, then the second curtain closes to finish the exposure. For really fast exposures, both curtains move at the same time, the second trailing the first slightly. What that creates is a vertical slit of light moving across the sensor; the sensor is never completely exposed at any moment during the shot.

Now, a neat thing you can do with a digital sensor that you never could with a film sensor: You can tell the digital sensor when to start capturing information. Quiet Mode eliminates the first shutter curtain by telling the sensor when/how to start capturing data, and then the second shutter curtain, synchronized with the camera's computer, finishes the exposure. You can electronically mimic the "rolling vertical slit" operation of a fast shutter speed this way, eliminate the first shutter curtain's noise, and as a neat benefit it also eliminates the minute mechanical vibrations that the first shutter curtain passes on to the mirror. The vibrations caused by the second shutter curtain are less important.

That, in combination with Mirror Lockup - which you, lukkyseven, are getting automatically with the 2-sec timer, but you can also force it manually - leads to as vibration-free a photographic experience as can be had with a dSLR.

And that's one of the reasons I shoot Canon.
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 Posted 07/26/2011  12:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
deh uh... I can take da pixure

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 Posted 07/26/2011  1:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm thinking of renting a Canon to see if I can improve the clarity of my shots. Every so often I see a picture on the web that just blows me away with its clarity, and invariably these shots were taken with a Canon. I don't know if it's the EFCS or some other technique the shooter is using but with all the work I do to get clear pictures, to see an image that's so easy to look at is disheartening...
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 Posted 07/26/2011  1:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Wait. You are going to try to improve the clarity of your shots?

You're already a goal I haven't yet achieved. Don't move the goalposts further back.

Part of it may be Canon's acknowledged "punchy" jpeg engine, as it translates through a monitor, so keep that in mind. That punchiness might also subtly "train" the Canon shooter even when they convert to RAW processing. The end result may not necessarily be "reality."
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 Posted 08/07/2011  1:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Here's an example of what I'm talking about. This image is just so easy to look at. The lighting is not optimum, but the shooter is not a coin photography specialist. I'd love to hear comments as to how others see this photo. Is it just the Canon jpg engine making it look good? Does it even look that good to you all? It is even through a slab!

Critique-Lukky---Part-3
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 Posted 08/07/2011  2:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
That is an unbelievably cool coin. All sorts of stuff going on with it.

The only nitpicking I could offer is that it's not quite as contrasty as I'd like.
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 Posted 08/08/2011  12:32 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Careful what you make of it...it's easy to let shadows create an optical illusion. The coin appears to have some mouse bites out of it, and that it is a raw coin projecting a shadow on the lower edge. But look at it closer...it's in a slab, and a poorly-finished one at that. The white plastic of the slab is obscuring part of the coin. The shadow is on the concave surface of the slab, not below the coin.

This was lifted from a Canon macro forum. Nice coin, nice photo, but not mine. Do I have to buy a Canon to get the clarity I see in this photo?
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 Posted 08/08/2011  12:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
This was lifted from a Canon macro forum. Nice coin, nice photo, but not mine. Do I have to buy a Canon to get the clarity I see in this photo?


I believe this image falls well short of the quality you're currently demonstrating with the equipment you have. There's no EXIF data for it, so I can't infer anything about what the photographer did to get this result. Do you know what lens he used?

Point your own stuff at a similar Cent, and see what you get. Your "usual" demonstrator Cent is a much stronger strike than they're getting in the age of zlincolns.
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