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Replies: 20 / Views: 3,389 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
What are members opinions on how much value is lost on a coin with problems. I know there are many different types of coin problems. I am thinking things like
Rim bumps/dings Scratch Stains Cleaning (light to harsh)
Of course some problems stand out more than others. It would be nice to be able to figure out what a good price would be for a problem coin.
For example, looking at my 1921 D Walking liberty. I would say in the fine plus range for grade. It has one small rim ding you can see from the obverse and a rim bump you can see from the reverse.
Does anyone know of a formula that is used to determine value of problem coins.
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Valued Member
United States
72 Posts |
I've been thinking about this myself. I have a 1914D Lincoln that is probably a VF30, except it looks like it was caught in an escalator for a while. Not that I want to sell it, but, was thinking how a coin like that would be valued. A picture is posted up over in the modern coin grading.
Will be interested what those with more experience then me say.
I'd think the problem with establishing a formula will be that for some folks, some problems are not much of a problem and for others any problem is a big problem and a deal breaker at any price.
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Bedrock of the Community
 United States
11951 Posts |
IowaHawkeye I am hoping we can get some positive discussion/opinions I have heard things like, if a coin is cleaned it can be knocked down a whole grade in value. Of course I have seen very polished lose more than that. On another problem area, no date Buffalo nickels. Some harder date coins get the dates restored and bring 10% of G 4 price ...or more. Also I see members buying and selling no date 1916 Standing Liberty quarters for some very good money. Which is very cool .. but I am thinking these coins would be considered problem coins. I am thinking the higher end collectors are not going to want problem coins. I also think album/folder collectors may accept some sorts of problems, for coins that will fill those higher priced holes. I have another coin I bought a few months ago, 1972 DDO Lincoln. Some of the opinions on here were to pass on the coin, because it had spots. I did some trading to get the coin and have about $160 into it. I have since taken it to a local coin show. I asked three dealers, who had a lot of Lincolns at their table, what they would give me for it. Two of them offered $200 the other $225. So I guess sometimes a problem coin can be a good deal. Yes it would be nicer to have a problem free 72 DDO, and if I run across one that is priced right, I think I would buy that one also. In defense of the experts on here, for me when I take pictures of coins, the negative areas of the coin, show up much better than the coin looks in hand. I think most collectors end up with problem coins, Some of mine are so bad I am thinking of giving them away just to be rid of them. But some them have problems that are not so bad in my eyes ..
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2120 Posts |
Generally, the more ugly the offense, the more grades to detract.
Me personally,
Rim bumps/dings Scratch Stains
These you warrant a full grade knock down, two if they are REALLY bad.
Cleaning, Light / Light Dipping
I would say 1 - 1 1/2 Grades in value.
Cleaning, Harsh / Polished.
Probably cut the value right in half. Most of time I wouldn't pay over melt for a coin like this. But if it were a Key date or Rarity, About half price.
This is just me, but I look at it as;
If I Carry this coin in my pocket and let it wear down over time to remove the cleaned surface, lessen the scratch, or smooth out the rim bump... How many grades do I think I would have lower the details to achieve a desirable surface.
A lot of coins only need to be worn down about a grade to remove most of the ugliness.
HTH
*Edit* - I should proof read more. :D
Edited by Namachieli 09/10/2011 12:26 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19942 Posts |
There is no set formula. It depends on the coin and the problem. This has been discussed many times, try using the search feature.
Lincoln Cent Lover!VERDI-CARE™ INVENTOR https://verdi.care/
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2120 Posts |
BadThad is 100% right.
But hopefully if you had no idea before, my above post should help give you an idea.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
500 Posts |
A dealer at a recent show I went to said that cleaning knocks coins down 2 grades, according to most people he deals with. I recently bought a certified cleaned coin that I paid about 1/3 what it would have gone for non-cleaned. I also bought a Peace dollar with a small scratch on the obv - that is hard to find - at just above melt when it otherwise would go for at least $180. I tend to stay away from most "obviously" damaged or cleaned coins but these two were otherwise real beauties. Some sellers seem to still want list even for obvious damage, but most are willing to reduce the price substantially.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7840 Posts |
This is a terrific "haggling" factor. Most people would want a "problem-free" coin, in which they are going to pay dearly for. I have saved some money and secured a couple of "problem" (primarily cleaned) coins for my 7070, and saved quite a bit because of it. If it looks right to me, it's okay by me. After all...it's my collection, and I don't plan on parting with it.
Edited by oih82w8 09/12/2011 11:13 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote: There is no set formula. It depends on the coin and the problem. This has been discussed many times, try using the search feature. Think of a used car you want to buy. You look it over and notice it is dirty. How much do you deduct for that? You find a dent in one fender. How much do you deduct for that? Tires are a bit worn but by how much? How do you deduct for that? Then you notice the condition of the seats, under the hood, trunk condition, spare tire(s) and on and on. So where do you stop. Meanwhile someone walks up and buys it. At a coin show last Sunday a dealer I know showed me a Walking Liberty half, 1919 in about AU and he said no one wanted it at all. I asked why and he said can't you see the damage on the edges? I didn't even notice the edges were all smoothed over as if it was in a charm or pendant. If put in an Album, no one would have seen that at all. Just to many types of damage to ever figure out a pricing system.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
500 Posts |
At the risk of making people mad, what good does it do anyone to post a YMMV answer?
Seriously! I don't think anyone needs reminded that there is no "perfect set answer" to any such question. So giving non-answer answers wastes everyone's time!
When I or anyone asks such a question they want to know if there are "general rules-of-thumb" that are used or that others use as a "general guide". Of course "it depends" and YMMV. Sorry to rant but "there is no answer" and "nobody knows" seems rather unhelpful and a might dismissive IMO.
Some have said 1.5 grades, I was told 2 on a cleaning. Of course the degree etc. makes it differ from coin to coin. But if that is what dealers "generally" go with then I think that more legit than YMMV.
JMHO
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1151 Posts |
Evrybody has their own opinion.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote: Some have said 1.5 grades, I was told 2 on a cleaning. Of course the degree etc. makes it differ from coin to coin. But if that is what dealers "generally" go with then I think that more legit than YMMV.
JMHO
I'm afraid you missed the fact that this is a general question and not a specific type of damage. Even cleaning of a coin has many, many different aspects to values. To just say 2 on a cleaning is really a useless number. Some coins are only slightly cleaned to the point not noticable. Others have been almost wire wheeled to death. How can anyone possibly give one % off on values for those differences. Also, the differences in values for a coin with damage is pending on the coin too. A really valuable coin can take some damage and still be valuable. A normal coin could become almost worthless due to the faintest damage. Almost everyone here does try to come up with answers to any question but if there really is no one easy answer, you must expect what has been already attempted to be the answer. And for the value of a damaged coin, there are way to many amswers to cover in one post.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1231 Posts |
It would heavily depend on the series of coin, the year, mintmark and how readily available it is in the market in all grades.
Thge deduction can vary. As Carl said depending on the severity of the type of damage, the deduction of grades could vary from -1 to -20 as an example. Each coin would have to be deducted on its own merits.
So there can not be a definate grade point deduction that can be used as a standard
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
And then there is personal preference. I personally do not care for holed coins & cleaned coins. These I will not buy unless I get a tremendous deal on them. Polished coins are simply out of the question. I do buy, and have bought coins with such problems such as light pitting or corrosion as long as it's stable and the detail of the coin is pleasing to the eye. I think yankee1227 said it correctly. Everyone has their own opinion. On the grading end of it, either a coin is XF40 or it's not. Problem free or XF40 Details.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
3692 Posts |
A polished coin loses some of its material, not to mention damages the collector value. Melt value would be a gift. I would even go as far as to say that cleaned coins should be boycotted unless marked as such, because they misrepresent the coin (it was tried to be improved upon, fraudulently). I would generally say that if an imperfection is major then the coin loses all collector value, save for key-dates. Minor damage can mostly be attributed to handling and circulation - all good features, as no one in their right mind would simulate a circulated coin via a mint-state coin - the value would drop anyways. (Hope this puts it into perspective. I view coins as "releases" by government mints of standard monetary units with potential collectors' value, factoring in scarsity and collectors' demand with eye appeal.)
(Threads exist as current event discussions. To refer to a past discussion is a bit static. Imagine if someone were discussing atheism and was interrupted by a bibliography of references that you should 'just go read'. There is no definite answer, of course, and every situation is different, which is exactly why we should continue dicussing it here in the present and not in a three year old thread. Not everyone is on the "same page" as the rest.) - Trying to put that in a postive way.
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Bedrock of the Community
 United States
11951 Posts |
Thank you all for responding. As always it is very interesting reading your replies.
Of course we all know that each coin and each problems would be different, I was just curious if some members had a formula they might be using to buy such coins.
As vermontensium posted .. I do not buy unless I get a tremendous deal ...
I guess I was thinking some might share their ideas on how they determine what a good deal on problem coins is.
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Replies: 20 / Views: 3,389 |