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Peace Dollar Questions

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Author Previous TopicReplies: 15 / Views: 1,559Next Topic  
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lukkyseven's Avatar
United States
880 Posts
 Posted 09/24/2011  08:13 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
So I've been buying some bullion grade Peace dollars and stuffing them into my Dansco so that I'd be collecting some silver. However, this is leading to me really liking the series. So much that when I get off of work in the next few hours I'm going to the book store to get my Guide to Collecting for this series.

But other than VAM's, which I'm not interested in, is there anything to keep an eye on? I notice some people post "blast white" coins and I wouldn't buy any of those unless certified, but what's popular among this series? I guess that's a tough question because it doesn't appear to be a really popular series. At least not when compared to Morgans.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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23522 Posts
 Posted 09/24/2011  08:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well, the keys come first, of course: 1921, 1928-P and 1927-S (1934-P and 1934-S seem tough in Mint State, too).

Much of the series is relatively inexpensive even into Mint State, though. What isn't easy is finding examples with good strike and/or clean white planchets. Strikes are usually abysmal, and the effects of mint wash (powdery-looking white streaks which do not come off) are commonly found.

Look for sharp lettering (especially PEACE on the reverse) and well-detailed hair at and below where the ear would be.
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lukkyseven's Avatar
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 Posted 09/24/2011  08:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I have noticed that wash on a lot of coins. I find it very distracting and am staying away from them. I'm a huge believer in strike before grade. That will make it fun as I really enjoy looking for crisp coins - it means a lot to me.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 09/24/2011  09:18 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm no real fan of Peace dollars, but a nice clean, strongly-struck white one is a wonder to behold.
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lukkyseven's Avatar
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880 Posts
 Posted 09/24/2011  09:39 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I actually like the reverse better than the obverse. Seriously debating displaing them that way in my Dansco.
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United States
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 Posted 09/24/2011  4:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dom to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The 1934-s is a key date..I like Peace dollars,but they are difficult to grade. They are less busy than the Morgan so lesser marks seem like more of a distraction , to me at least. Unfortunately the frosty luster gets a creamy to yellowish glow, and real white specimens don't come buy all that frequently and when they are there, obviously cost more
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lukkyseven's Avatar
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880 Posts
 Posted 09/24/2011  10:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
So the frost whites are more huh... That's good I guess because I like the yellowish tinted ones a lot.
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vanbroj's Avatar
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450 Posts
 Posted 09/25/2011  01:27 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add vanbroj to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
the 1921 date does not have good obverse hair detail even on unc coins due to high relief...
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Freedom's Avatar
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526 Posts
 Posted 09/30/2011  11:59 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Freedom to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
The 1934-s is a key date..


No, the 1928 is the Grand Daddy at 360,649, there were several years with less mintage than the 1934-S (1,011,000)

1934 - 954,000 (Approx)
1927-S - 866,000
1927 - 848,000
1921 - Just over 1,000,000.
Edited by Freedom
09/30/2011 12:07 pm
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oih82w8's Avatar
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 Posted 09/30/2011  12:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add oih82w8 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The 1928 does have the lowest mintage, but the 1934-S hits the hardest in the wallet (for the most part, MS, not all grades).
Edited by oih82w8
09/30/2011 12:49 pm
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biokemist6's Avatar
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12437 Posts
 Posted 09/30/2011  12:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add biokemist6 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
1934-S is the conditional key date of the series at AU50-MS64, mintage is not always the most important factor.
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Freedom's Avatar
United States
526 Posts
 Posted 10/01/2011  10:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Freedom to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
1934-S is the conditional key date of the series at AU50-MS64, mintage is not always the most important factor.


I agree with your statement, but the other poster said that the 1934-S was the key. It is not, the 1928 is. I pointed out mintage as a point of reference to scarcity. Yes, my 1934-S did cost more than other coins in my set (AU-50) from NGC, plucked from the slab and placed in the album.

I paid $432 dollars for the AU-58 1928 and $275 dollars
for the 1934-S in AU-50. I found far more 1934-S coins than
1928. The price guides all show higher prices for the 1934-s then the 1928 but walk into a coin store and see what they
really charge on a routine basis.

My most difficult coin to find was the 1928, took me almost the full two months to find one that would even be considered to be in put into my book when they were available. The 1934-S was the first coin I purchased, had handfuls to choose from, both raw and slabbed. As I mentioned above, 1934-S is a "Semi Key" date, not the "Key" date.

Only 360,000 people can have a complete set of " Peace dollars", that is not taking into consideration what was melted back in the "Hunt" era. Best Guess by the professionals is that roughly 200,000 +/- are still in existence today which places more emphasis on the 1928 and not the others. I am not really being argumentative, although my post sounds like I am, I just did a complete review of the history of the Peace dollar before I put my set together so I had relative information when purchasing.

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lukkyseven's Avatar
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880 Posts
 Posted 10/05/2011  08:33 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Freedom I appreciate that info. When I go to my coin show in November I'll probably be looking for the 28. If I don't find one I like I'll get some more Jeffs or high grade buffs.
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United States
265 Posts
 Posted 10/05/2011  09:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dom to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Just to clarify, my previous post stated that the'34-s was a key date, not thee key date. As biokemist pointed out finding a nice high grade '34-s can be difficult to locate especially in original condition. It is similar to say the '83-s or 84-s Morgan which clearly were not low mintage dates but that price starts to climb exponentially as you go above au50
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oih82w8's Avatar
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7840 Posts
 Posted 10/05/2011  10:16 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add oih82w8 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Philly's have typically been overlooked as far as desirable coins go.
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CoinHunter53562's Avatar
United States
2049 Posts
 Posted 10/05/2011  11:18 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinHunter53562 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you want to go beyond the coins that will go in your Dansco and expand into another area, there are VAMS just like there are for Morgan dollars. The Cherrypicker's guide will list some of the more common ones, and I am sure there are other reference books out there. Vamworld is a good site for an online reference: http://vamworld.com/Peace+Dollar+VAMs. It's not something that I have really pursued on a widespread basis, but I occasionally check my finds for anything valuable.
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