First, take a really good look at the coin in question. If you see scratches, even fine ones, then it really doesn't matter how you proceed -- the coin is already damaged so do what you need to do to make it more appealing to you.
Second, many circulated coins, such as ones you might actually pull from circulation or from your LCS's "junk" silver bin, won't have any difference in value if they are cleaned or not. It greatly depends on what you collect.
If you have something that might be valuable, and it's not already damaged, then handle with care using the good advice from those that have already posted.
Quote: You could get a bunch of cheap pocket change and start experimenting remembering that the different metals of the different coins also matter. At some point you'll start seeing somethings are more a conservation that improves it instead of makes it "cleaned" but that that methods only work in specific situations.
If you wanted to practice on silver, you could likely get common date "junk silver" from a coin shop. You can get common date uncirculated coins this way.
Chemicals such as E*Z*EST and MS70 are inexpensive chemicals used to brighten coins and, if done in the correct manner, are said to be undetectable. However, it must be remembered "shiny"does not mean valuable, and it also is very easy to ruin a coin using these two chemicals.
E*Z*EST is a "dip" for coins that will quickly remove a natural look of the luster if the coin is left in for more than a couple seconds (literally). But if a person is practiced (use junk please!), they can get results which TPGs will accept and grade.
MS70 is probably best used by wetting a cotton swab and rolling the swab onto the coin surface or dabbing at a spot on the coin with discoloration. Again though, caution! Too much exposure to the chemical is discernible. Practice makes perfect.
Even though I have conserved quite a few coins with both of the above, I go by the idea that more than one very quick application/bath is a lot better at limiting the risk of ruining the coin. Some people also dilute the chemicals with distilled water to limit the impact the chemicals can have at one application/dip. Either way the distilled water bath should be immediately handy.
Cleaning a coin is just not the thing to do. Way back almost everyone did do that. It used to be normal to try to get rid of dirt on a coin regardless of what happened to the coin. Today it is just not acceptable. Why, is mostly due to most cleaning of a coin tends to remove some of the metal of the coin. Also, many methods of cleaning leaves scratches or even wear marks. Best leave a coin as it is.
Quote: Is using soap, water and a Q-tip to remove soil from a coin considered "cleaning"? How about spitting on it, or just plain water and Q-tip?
I see talk of Acetone and other methods being used, so where exactly is the line to be drawn?
It is important to make the distinction between "dirt" - foreign matter sitting on the surface of a coin - and the metal of the coin itself. Removing the metal itself is what is usually considered "bad cleaning" - though in some cases, such as ancient coins or other coins dug up from the ground, "bad cleaning" may be the only option available.
It's all to do with chemistry. If it's "dirt", then removing it is perfectly OK, provided the removal is done in such a way as to not damage the coin, because the dirt hasn't reacted chemically with the metal. Corrosion products were once part of the metal itself so you generally don't want to remove them unless leaving them on the coin is going to cause further damage to the coin.
"Dirt" isn't just literal dirt, it's anything of non-metallic origin that might stick to the surface of a coin: paint, glue, varnish, sticky-tape residue, and plasticizer residue that leaches out form certain plastics over time. These are all perfectly acceptable to remove from a coin. Many of those things listed above will be difficult to remove without some kind of solvent. Such a solvent should be chemically inert with regard to metals; "organic" solvents such as acetone, ethanol, methanol, hexane etc. are all acceptable. Acids (eg. sulfuric acid) and alkalis (eg ammonia) are not acceptable, as they actually react either with the metal itself or with the corrosion products.
"Corrosion products" covers a lot of phenomena and is given different labels depending on who is doing the labelling: oxidation, toning, patina, tarnish, rust, corrosion - these are all chemical damage caused by the coin being exposed to the environment. This planet does not like bright shiny metal, and from the moment a coin is made, the planet is doing its best to try to turn that piece of metal back into the mineral ores from whence it came, which is why coin collectors usually try to shield their coins from this environment. It should be noted that all corrosion products are considered "damage", and ought to be avoided on a coin. The main reason why cleaning is considered "bad" is that, when this layer of damage is removed, the underlying surface of the coin remains damaged - it's just that the damage is made more visible and obvious. The corrosion layer - particularly metal oxides - also often forms a protective barrier, preventing further corrosion (though this does depend on the chemical properties of the metal in question). So removing the corrosion products It also exposes fresh metal to the corrosive environment that cause the damage in the first place.
Some corrosion products are harmful to the continued preservation of the coin. "Green goo" that forms when plasticizer residue reacts with a coin is acidic, and will continue to damage a coin if not removed. "Bronze disease" is a contagious corrosion that forms on copper and bronze coins under certain circumstances, and can not only spread across the surface of a coin but can jump from coin to coin if the particles of dust beak off and land on another coin. These things have to be removed from a coin, to stop it from continuing to degrade. The resultant coin will still be damaged, and labelled as "cleaned", but at least some part of the coin will be saved.
This is why soaking a coin in acetone to remove old stickytape or green goo is perfectly OK, while "coin dip" such as E-Z-est (which is made from sulfuric acid and thiourea) is frowned upon.
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
Wow! These are some really good replies. Several replies were awesome. Jgenn: nice comment! Methinks this is a topic which we should repeat periodically for newcomers to see.
I do clean coins but first experiment on several of the same denomination and date which are not my intended keepers. If you kill those, no big deal as they were experimental. Get yourself a 5x and perhaps 10x loupe so that you can look at the results under magnification. When you feel you got the technique right for your keeper, proceed with caution. I found that even with pennies, there is a difference between years in what metals where used by the mint, I have gotten mixed results. Especially between a US 1 penny, versus nickel, versus dimes and quarters, major difference primarily due to hardness of the metal types.
For the record, I'll admit that I killed a few keepers.
After reading all that I can find on this topic I am now just lightly restoring what I have. Step1 h2o soak over night followed by debris removal with Q tip. 2nd step overnight in olive oil, remove debris with q tip. 3rd step 10 minute acetone dip. Is there more I can do without damaging said coin?
You're gonna have to post some pictures to get an accurate response to your question and fill in some more details, like what is the coin, what is all this "debris" you are removing from it, and what is your goal with the coin. Best to start a new topic to get specific responses about your coin.
Quote: In the Verdi care method though you are still rubbing although it is supposedly very lightly on micro fibre. Is there a line at all or is it personal preference? Has anyone sent a coin in for grading after any of these methods? What were the results? Enlighten us both please.
i sent several coppers in to both ANACS and PCGS several years ago as I was looking to sell them. all had soaked in verdicare. none came back cleaned. also, I think someone called it above. you not supposed to rub the coin using verdicare just let it do its thing
i would never use olive oil on a coin. whats the purpose of that? as far as I can see it would leave a film on the coin. acetone will remove any organic matter on the coin no rubbing needed.
a coin does not have to show any hairlines and it still could receive a details designation for cleaning if the coin was overdipped and it removed the original surfaces. theres a fine line you don't want to cross
Quote: Here's another fun way to clean coins...rock tumbler:
Rock tumbler cleaning is a good way to take corroded metal detecting finds and make them look clean enough to be accepted in change. I wouldn't recommend it for anything you want to keep in a collection, since it's the equivalent of dumping your coins in a bucket of strong acid.
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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