Need Advice-Starting Remote Shooting Again

hello ham. could you do me a favor. I see where you are not able to get pics of full slab. would you mind taking a couple pics of your setup. post them here and I may have a suggestion that might help you get the full slab. but first need pics of your set up and show why you can not get the full slab in. its up to you. I will be back later this evening. I may have a fix for you

wow ham I really like that one. I don't think that's overkill. I am wondering was it expenses I like that ham that crank wheel is going to help a lot with focus. I see it anti vibration you got a good one. good move ham like it

Thanks, smoke1439. Just keep following the posts and don't be afraid to ask questions. Good Luck!!

after reading the list of settings rocky posted pg.1, should I be shooting in Tv mode?


Correction to my previous post. Ham actually posted the setting he was using. Sorry for any confusion.

This is something I came across a while back and saved. I'm not even sure who posted it originally.



think both of those can be set with Zoom Browser! Here is a step by step I wrote for someone who bought a camera from me, and I think this covers everything I personally do before plugging in the USB first time.(some of these might be settable in ZB...)

- Install the software that came with the camera onto your PC:
... EOS Utility
... Digital Photo Professional
- Turn on Camera and set the following settings:
... Turn top knob to Av
... Press Menu button (top left corner on back of camera)
... Tab over til you are on the 3rd setup menu (wrench with 3 dots)
... Tab down to Clear Settings and press Set, then Clear all Camera Settings and confirm
... Tab to the first camera settings menu (camera with 1 dot)
... Verify the Quality is set to high quality L (has a smooth quarter circle to the left of the L)
... Turn Image Review to Off
... Tab to second camera menu
... Set Metering Mode to Partial
... Tab to the first setup menu (wrench with 1 dot)
... Decide if you want auto power off. I have mine set for 15 min
... Turn Auto Rotate Off
... Tab to second setup menu
... Go to Live View settings menu
... Turn Grid Display to "tic tac toe" setting
... Turn Metering Timer to 30min
... Press Menu button twice to get out of all menus
- Press ISO button near the top knob and press the right tab key on back of camera to set ISO to 100
- Press the WB button (it's the tab up key)
- Set WB to Tungsten Light and then press the Set button (it won't change if you don't press set)
- Install the USB cable from your PC to the Camera. EOS utility should start automatically.


Quote:
EU/ZB default settings for a new camera (I'd use my T2i)

Necessary? I know I'll want to address changing the destination directory for shots.




I think so...this is where you can show a pictorial view and explanation of each of the parameters that can be set, with the camera defaults.


Quote:
Set MWB

Yup. Have to go back into camera-based settings for WB, though - I set WB before I attach the camera at all.




I couldn't get by setting them in-camera. I want immediate feedback as to whether the MWB setting looks correct. I only get about 33% hit rate, ie I need to re-do on average twice before I am satisfied with the MWB result. This is where it might be nice to go through the eyedropper MWB function in ZB, and the preferred defocusing method of setting MWB, etc.


Quote:
Focus (what OOF high and low look like vs critical focus)

Another shudder moment. Should you be taking pictures if you don't know what a focused shot looks like? I suppose we should, though.




I think so, since so many folks rely on AF, they need to know why AF is often inadequate when shooting at high resolution.


Quote:
Ought to mention the image Zoom Browser pops up of the shot, as the place for the taker to review his work and decide on any necessary changes.




I didn't know it did this, or maybe I'm disabling that function and didn't know it? I just look at the shot in DPP for RAW or other viewer like ViewNX2 for jpg.



One piece of trivia I would add - the image preview has the wrong exposure if you're using a manual lens in manual exposure mode (M on the dial). The preview actually looks a couple stops darker than what the actual exposure will turn out to be. It's a known bug in the Canon software. It works fine in Av or Tv mode. However, if you are using lens with a manual aperture ring, you can just use Tv mode if you want a fully manual exposure (since the camera can't set the aperture) and the preview is correct.

Most people probably stick with Av mode, but I like to lock in the exposure manually so I can get the same exposure for both sides of a coin or a series of coins and edit them all in exactly the same way and get really consistent results.



1) Open lens aperture to maximum
2) Adjust bellows length to approx magnification desired
3) Adjust lens height for best focus
4) Iterate 2 and 3 above while framing coin in viewfinder or on PC screen
5) Set aperture for desired resolution and depth of field (usually 5.6 or 8 for coins...)
6) Adjust Lighting for desired composition and effect
7) Adjust ISO and shutter speed
8) Shoot picture and check result
9) Iterate 7 and 8 above until correct exposure is achieved

Anyone. I have a Rodenstock APO 75mm lens, but without the lens cap. I have the plastic container.. What is the size of the cap, and where can I purchase one? Thanks.

Here are 2 photos of my new setup. Kaiser 5510 RS1 copy stand. Canon t1i, Vivitar bellows, and Rodenstock APO 75mm lens. Pics coming soon.