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High Resolution With Pixel Shifting

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 Posted 08/14/2025  7:03 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I've been shooting high resolution images of (primarily) Cents at ~1.8x magnification, which stretches the coin across the FF sensor, and then stitching together images of the top and bottom halves of the Cent. This results in a ~9500x9500 (~90MP) image. Here's an example of a BIE shot with this method:

https://easyzoom.com/image/515761/a...?mode=manage

I'm experimenting now with shooting single images with pixel shifting. This technique improves sharpness and color fidelity, and by only filling the vertical space of the sensor, and using 16-image pixel shifting, the result is a 12500x12500 (156MP) image. I've shot a 1949-S Cent with this technique, and presented it in full size as well as half size (6250x6250, 39MP). Here are images of the 49-S Cent in the two sizes:

39MP
https://easyzoom.com/image/647102/a...?mode=manage

156MP
https://easyzoom.com/image/647104/a...?mode=manage


The 156MP image shows more detail than the 90MP images I've been shooting, while 39MP shows less. I'm hoping for feedback from folks on what size seems to work best for viewing a coin's surfaces in detail, looking for die markers and variety details, etc. If the 39MP is detailed enough, it would make working with the images much easier. It may be that folks find the 156MP much more useful for finding die markers and such. I will probably not do more 90MP images, so my question is if I go with 156MP or 39MP. Your input is appreciated.

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CoinForMe's Avatar
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 Posted 08/14/2025  8:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinForMe to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

My opinion, to be able to inspect coins more closely: The larger the image, the better....
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 Posted 08/14/2025  8:54 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks @CoinForMe, I pretty much expected that. I really like that the "money shot" of the date + MM shows up nicely in both 39MP and 156MP, and then the 156MP goes one zoom step further. Note you can go that extra step with the 39MP by pressing the "Max" button, but it's not as sharp since it's just the same image blown up twice. It's actually not too bad but the 156MP is for sure clearer, and that's often important for identifications. You can even press the Max button and zoom in one step further on the 156MP and fill the screen with just the MM...

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 Posted 08/15/2025  07:45 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ijn1944 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Good discussion. On very rare occasions I'll take photos in the ~36MP range. I find that works for me. If I had a need for much higher 'magnification', I'd opt for a high quality microscope with digital imaging capability--not to capture full coin pics, but only to isolate and view issues of interest.
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 Posted 08/15/2025  1:16 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinForMe to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
If I had a need for much higher 'magnification', I'd opt for a high quality microscope with digital imaging capability--not to capture full coin pics, but only to isolate and view issues of interest.

ijn1944 : Yes, I think that makes much more sense, the picture will not take up as much space on a storage device..
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 Posted 08/15/2025  3:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If I have a particular feature I want to photograph I pull out the 10x microscope objective and shoot it. But if I'm documenting a new variety or other coin of interest, and I want to view details across the whole coin, I want a big image like the 156MP so I can look at all areas of the coin. The variety attributers like CONECA, Coppercoins, and Wexler shoot the individual markers when they publish, but there are often markers that are missed or overlooked, and the whole coin image will show these.
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 Posted 08/15/2025  7:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinForMe to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I think that was ijn1944 point.. Save small (39MP), but if a coin needs to be investigated, reshoot the image into a larger format size (156MP).
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 Posted 08/15/2025  8:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I think that was ijn1944 point.. Save small (39MP), but if a coin needs to be investigated, reshoot the image into a larger format size (156MP).


Hmm, I don't think so. It's really an either/or type of thing since it takes different optics and equipment to do what he is talking about. I'm using one system, and can change lenses to give different magnifications. If I want to do the 156/39MP type of image, I use one lens, while if I want to do the high magnification detail shot I change to a different lens. He mentioned shooting with a microscope with photo capability, which would not have the capability to shoot full coin pics but can do a good job on detail shots.

The difference between 156MP and 39MP is just how I save the file. The baseline is 156MP, but I can downsize it 2x and get 39MP. Viewing on a site like EasyZoom, the step sizes are factors of 2, so you can view at 156MP at full zoom (without "Max"), and when you zoom out one step you're viewing at 39MP. It's actually pretty cool, and makes me think that I'll publish at 156MP since 39MP is always an option.
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 Posted 08/17/2025  11:01 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinForMe to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Hmm, I don't think so. It's really an either/or type of thing since it takes different optics and equipment to do what he is talking about. I'm using one system, and can change lenses to give different magnifications. If I want to do the 156/39MP type of image

rmpsrpms, thank you for correcting me and explaining the sequence of your technique, I thought I had understood it before...
What format are your pictures in? Do you change the file extension to lower the image size?
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 Posted 08/17/2025  11:16 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lucidfind to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Very cool! I like it; this has me considering an upgrade. The Nikon Z5 I currently have is unfortunately not capable of pixel shift.
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 Posted 08/17/2025  11:31 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
rmpsrpms, thank you for correcting me and explaining the sequence of your technique, I thought I had understood it before...
What format are your pictures in? Do you change the file extension to lower the image size?


Here is the overall flow for the non-stitched High Resolution images:

Camera: Sony A7Rm4 in 16-shot pixel shift mode
Lens: Nikon 105mm Printing-Nikkor at magnification 1.2x, nominal f3.3, EA7.3

Source images: 28-shot focus stack, 25um steps, 675um total height, RAW format, total 448 images, 9504x6336
Composite images: 28 images, TIF format, 19008x12672
Focus Stack: jpg format, ~19000x12500
Processing: Crop to 12500x12500, levels and sharpening as needed, save jpg final images at 12500 and 6250 square

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 Posted 09/20/2025  1:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I just finished an image of a Texas Quarter that strained my system due to the complexity. The requirement was a 24000x24000 pixel (576MP) final image. With "normal" stack and stitch this would have required a huge number of tiles, but with pixel shifting I was able to keep to 6 tiles, though even so it was a half-day effort. Main issue was having to move large amounts of data around, followed by the pixel shift processing itself. Stacking and stitching were relatively trivial in comparison. Here are the details:

6 tiles (3 tall x 2 wide)
Each tile has 20 stacked images
Each image has a group of 16 pixel shift RAW images
1920 RAW files, ~115MB each, total 220GB
Each RAW PS group renders to a 1.34GB TIFF file, total 120 files,160GB
Each group of 20 TIFF files stacks to a final 220MB tile, total 6 tiles
Final tiled panorama is 24000x24000, 576MP, 660MB

The final file is manageable using many programs, though not Digital Photo Professional, which is limited to 10000x10000 pixels. But intermediate files for sure caused me some strain. I was pleased though that Sony's Imaging Edge Viewer was able to batch process the RAW pixel shift files. It took an hour to process, but that happened offline without any input from me so no worries.

The final result is fairly impressive IMO. You can view it here on EasyZoom:

https://easyzoom.com/image/655297/a...?mode=manage

I think you'll find the coin interesting, as it has thousands of small divots and scratches from some unknown issue.

I can't keep this image up on the server for very long as it is using up a big % of my 2GB allotment. EasyZoom has not responded to my requests to increase storage so I'll need to delete it at some point.

Til then, enjoy!
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Edited by rmpsrpms
09/20/2025 2:36 pm
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 Posted 09/20/2025  3:46 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinForMe to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
rmpsrpms, that is outstanding, you can even inspect a dot within a dot..
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 Posted 09/20/2025  4:18 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The images are spectacular, of course. =)

I think there are separate use cases here. The super resolution seems better for examining new or disputed varieties. For example, I think that's the ideal tool to analyze something like a 1957-D 25¢ Misplaced D or your previous work on MMS-004/009 equivalence.

For basic variety identification or documentation, the extra level of resolution might not get the same mileage. Most consumers of reference images will not have equipment that can examine their coins in ultra-detail. I also find myself wondering if phenomena like Die Deterioration flow wouldn't obliterate such tiny markers.
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 Posted 09/20/2025  5:25 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm definitely not a proponent for using these techniques for examining coins as that would be way too much work. I'm also looking at the Texas Quarter images as overkill for most purposes, except for the specific needs of the owner, ie he wanted to make a huge (40") print at 600DPI. I think he'll need to view the print with a magnifying glass to see all the details, but they'll be there!

My OP describes a much easier workflow without having to do any tiling/stitching, and with far fewer source images. Yet I still don't think it's appropriate for examinations. My goal is to have these images available for matching die markers and such versus a coin I might be viewing under a microscope. The full coin image gives more information than is contained in a small group of detail shots, and documents all the markers rather than just those the attributer found most interesting. If I can ever get it together I would host a bunch of such images for folks to use as a reference...maybe someday.
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