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Replies: 47 / Views: 5,367 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
If you put them here we will be notified when they post.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
I am hoping it is ok with the original member for this post, to add some pics of coins I am interested in buying. So far this thread looks like it has some very good information on 8R Spanish coins. I hope my pictures are good enough to get some good opinions. I see 8r coins every once in a while and would like to get enough knowledge to know what I am buying. 1787    1825   
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1757 Posts |
Even I will admit Bob after XRF analyzing over 300 CC8R's for OUR book I would have a tough time suggesting a Class 3 or Modern Fake of a debased silver alloy type. I say this because of all the modern Chinese fakes I have examined particularly for the cast die transfer types from China for all countries I have never seen a debased silver alloy type like a Class 2 CC8R - I have seen bronze with silver, Iron/Nickel, german silver types, etc... I know I have posted some of my findings here of these Chinese die cast transfer alloys ... in my mind something that is debased silver is primarily a Class 2 piece for these CC8R China types ... I just don't see modern types with any significant level of silver say over 10% silver ... Anything is possible but a 20thC debased silver or high silver type is a rarity in my opinion - very unusual - not requiring a class or sub-class type onto itself ... just my opinion ...
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
Both of those are genuine - the 1787 may have been cleaned but both are OK.
The edge picture of the 1787 shows one of two edge die laps (very short) out of line - if that same feature or a matching length feature appears exactly opposite that edge picture that you have NO WORRIES.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
Thank you swamperbob.
I do see a line opposite the die lap you mention.
What do you think a fair price would be to offer on buying these coins? I am thinking $25.00
Is one a better coin over the other?
I am just wanting some coins like this for my collection, not to flip.
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Valued Member
 United States
462 Posts |
Edited by plonker 02/13/2013 7:15 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
Quote: $25 wold be a great bargain I'd think. You could be right .. I guess I should be willing to go a little higher .. checking out your link and ebay .. I see they are selling from $60 to $100 plus.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
I would offer $65 on the 1787 and $45 on the 1825 and if they were on ebay I would also figure I would loose at those prices but they are fair. I pay $35 up for counterfeit portraits run of the mill. So $25 may be an insulting offer to the dealer unless he is buying at melt and is basically taking advantage of the people he buys from. A fair price is fair for BOTH parties.
Edited by swamperbob 02/13/2013 10:29 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
Thanks again Swamperbob
We had not talked prices, so I was wanting to know what I would expect to pay and have a fair deal. I will use your suggestion as a possible offer.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1962 Posts |
"What do you think a fair price would be to offer on buying these coins? I am thinking $25.00." Melt for an 8R (and for the 1787?!) is fair? Frankly, either you have zero concept of pricing on these (and thus, logically, you can't legitimately have a notion of what "fair" is)... OR, you DO have some concept of prices and you know better... The 1825 is in less-than-average grade wear-wise, and has a small attempted piercing (12 o'clock both sides)... Your average 1825-JL is VF30ish with maybe a few ticks or some light hairlines can be had in the $60 range. This piece should be commensurately less - probably a $40-45 piece. Now, the 1787... Unless the dealer is a complete rube (is there an acknowledged spelling for "rube"?), he would be well within his rights to tell you to go ____ yourself if you offered $25 on that piece (of course, whatever he paid is not a concern to us, save for moral judgment). Strong XF detail. Definitely wiping hairlines there, but hard to tell how bad from the overexposed pic. Also, some remaining peripheral luster present. If not hideously hairlined/brushed in hand, you're easily in the $125-150 range on ebay or from any halfway-knowledgeable dealer. Even for the local yokel seller, this is about as common and popular a "foreign" coin series as you can get, not some obscure series from Whocaresistan where they might see two in their life. Bob, you're obviously very much an active participant in the 8R market (though perhaps looking at a different end of it than most people). What are you basing that $65 price on? .... and "If they were on ebay I would also figure I would (lose) at those prices"? I misread that at first... but you mean if you bid $65 for that piece on ebay, you would lose the auction (by a LOT), yes? PS - Plonker, on the other end of the spectrum... Keep in mind, MA-Shops is generally reflecting strong "dealer-retail" pricing... Those are all professionals and they are fully aware of what can be squeezed out of a piece.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
realeswatcher The $65 price was a bottom fishing price HOPING for a Class 2 or 3 counterfeit (which requires an in person check anyway). I do not expect to win but that is a dealer wholesale price that I am familiar with for originals that are cleaned. I would not risk bidding higher than that without seeing the coin in hand. I rarely win originals on ebay but I bid quite often at wholesale. I really do not want originals in any event but hate to see coins sell for less than dealer wholesale. They are comp bids.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1962 Posts |
So you're then mainly referring to your own pricing strategy in regards to the CCs...
"Originals that are cleaned", though... "Cleaned original" could mean a polished-to-death chopped-up VG-F Washington Mint piece... OR can be a piece like this with XF+ detail but some wipemarks. HUGE difference! The amount of detail left on the 1787 pictured brings a premium.
Regarding just throwing up a just-in-case lowballs on the Bay... rarely these days do (genuine not CC!) Charles III Mex 8R (or even Charles IIII), properly titled and categorized, ending in prime time, fail to fetch the expected price level.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
I guess what I am really saying is that in NC the price is lower. Remember in this area these coins usually go begging for buyers and I can still get bargains. I can get originals near XF well under $100 by looking. I do not want to get stuck with a higher priced original because that would mean I would have to re-sell on ebay and eat their fees. Any originals I get I tend to re-sell into the local market or better yet trade for counterfeits. Cleaned coins here is also a near death sentence. I have seen the Washington Mint types sold for melt. The obverse of the 1787 coin looks more harshly cleaned to me than to you - not as bad as the real clunkers but far from original surfaces. I think wiping is understated. But this is why collecting is so subjective and ultimately based on the collector's opinion.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
I did not mean to start anything negative. I would like to say, if I did know what these (8r's) sold for I would not have asked. I have never purchased a spanish coin, so I thought I would asked opinions. I am in different coin shops at least 5 days a week. I have seen coins like this in the past, and know I have seen some sell in the $35 to $40 dollar range. I too am in a small town area, if a coin like this was on display in a local shop in this area, and trying to get $100 range .. it would sit for years. I did do a short search on ebay, to me the ones with bids were ship wreck coins in slabs. If a seller is sending his coins in to be slabbed .. that takes away a lot of profit on a $100 coin. But .. again I was not looking at these coins to sell .. just to add something different to my collection. And I am curious, how coins like these may have circulated in the united states ..pre 1858. In my opinion to call a dealer a "rube" if he does not pay what you think he should pay is sort of insulting. A good dealer has to pay a fair price on a coin based on what he can sell it for at his shop. Any seller has the right to not sell if he does not like the price. Not all dealers sell online, so that is not always a fair guide for everyone or every area. I buy a lot of coins ...every week. I am fully aware of price guides being retail and greysheet (CDN) being wholesale. Most all coins I buy at greysheet or back of greysheet, or even melt sometimes below melt. I know coins like these are not in greysheet .. and how I buy using Kruase is another story.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
I let these coins sit at the coin shop .. for about 6 weeks. They were aasking $40 and $35, and had no buyers.
I offered $30 each and brought them home.
After giving them both a acetone bath, I saw what look like light PVC on them.
What I did not notice before, the 1825 Bolivia has what looks like a hole that has been repaired.
How much do you think this impacts the price.
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Replies: 47 / Views: 5,367 |
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