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 Replies: 21 / Views: 3,651 |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I think the lower response was because he waited less than 3 hours, during business hours on a weekday, before losing his patience.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
36880 Posts |
Too hard to tell on a restored coin if this is the overdate. Even a low grade unrestored coin would be hard to sell at $100.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8521 Posts |
It's restored....pics aren't the best....no reverse pic. I can't make out anything except that it's a 1914.
Oregon coin geek.....*** GO BEAVS ! ! ! ***
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
 I think you're seeing what you WANT to see. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8137 Posts |
It is really hard to see the date, I can barely tell if it is a 1914.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2311 Posts |
@SsuperDdave, Shh! Don't let them know about that part. You can't blame me, lol. @weerdsteev, Could be. But remember, I was just listing this as a normal 1914 S until I saw that strange mark stand out. I am not really sure how it caught my eye's. This is the best I can do... didn't move the camera once but when you must zoom in like 500x times, it's not going to work that great.  Just wondering, when you guys take HD pictures. Now I mean real HD ones where the coin is like 3400x2400 (Made the numbers up)
Do you use a tripod or hold the camera with your hands? |
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Pillar of the Community
1028 Posts |
I know what you are referring too, but I would ignore it.
The S version of this particular error is considered a very minor variety. Even the P version is not that popular.
At the end of the day, since you're selling it, all that matters is what someone will pay for it. There is no way anyone is going to pay extra for a restored 1914-S with a "slightly possible" minor variety.
I can't see the reverse, but based off the obverse and assuming the reverse looks decent, I'd say this is worth $5, if that.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2311 Posts |
@hegut, The 1914 S alone is worth about ten. I always counted this as about 5 dollars in profit. I owe ebay a lot for selling items. Just crazy how it adds up fast. Once again, thanks guys for replying. |
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Quote:
Do you use a tripod or hold the camera with your hands?
Absolutely needs a solid camera mount with a timed or remote shutter so nothing's touching the camera when the shutter snaps. It's like, if everyone in your house isn't standing perfectly still at that moment, the picture will blur.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2311 Posts |
@SsuperDdave, That's true about the people!
Hmmm, well I found out that if I can manage to hold the camera still for about ten seconds the pictures will come out so large that you can zoom in a lot on the PC. My trick is to place some fingers on the solid wood and have the same hand supporting the camera. ( still use both hands) This prevents the camera from moving if you slow your breathing down. ( I have been used an oak dresser to shoot my pictures on) It's just when the coin is the size of a nickel or smaller it's harder. Dollar coins are very easy to capture HD pictures because of the size.
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Pillar of the Community
1028 Posts |
Well, I see that you have listed the coin on ebay as an overdate. This, despite the fact that nobody here would confirm the date and you, yourself, admit you aren't sure. That's borderline shady. The fact of the matter is, your pictures actually are satisfactory so I can promise you there is no way to ever authenticate this coin. I am about 90% sure it isn't an overdate and not a single person on the planet will be able to tell you 100% that it is. You actually wrote in your auction "Since it's hard to confirm it's really a 1914/3, I have lowered the price to a better asking amount." I appreciate the honesty, but come on, you've got to be kidding me with this listing. This is simply not worth $25. btw, a strong 14-S restored might be worth 10, but this isn't strong enough. The reverse is also below average. You, yourself, have sold a better one for only 6. This is worth $5 tops. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2311 Posts |
I kind of listed it when I thought it was confirmed. I added that new line today. Almost all my sales been best offers, that's why I start high. I can lower it again to like 15. I only consider this one to have extra value because it looks better. The other one had a gray look if I remember correct. *Added, I changed my text all over and lowered it to 9.10. I would hate to sell someone something and later find out I was wrong. That's why I like to ask questions. * This is what it now said's: 1914/13 S Buffalo nickel - Overdate (Full Restored) I am not 100% sure this is an overdate but with my one picture I managed to capture what I believe is the proof of it being an overdate. If this is really one, it's most likely the weak one which is worth less. Even if it's not, this is still a Semi-Key date 1914 S Full Acid Restored Edited by solotime
05/09/2014 1:29 pm
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New Member
United States
10 Posts |
I love Buffalo nickels and need only 2 coins to complete my set. Both are on layaway with my favorite dealer. Hoping to find A LOT of discussion here about Buffaloes. For me, the degree of corrosion in your example makes it pretty much impossible to grade here from a photo. Sorry I can't offer a meaningful opinion. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2311 Posts |
@Teratoma, which two do you need for your set? My set needs a ton because I no longer allow acid restored ones.
(Not trying to sell you any, I don't got them mostly too)
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Valued Member
United States
166 Posts |
I like Buffalo nickels, but to me if they was acid dated it's a no go for me, can't read the date in it's raw then it's junk to me. |
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Replies: 21 / Views: 3,651 |
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First Page
Posted 05/08/2014 09:59 am
