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1718 Spanish 8 Reales - Twins Or Not

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Bedrock of the Community
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10045 Posts
 Posted 12/01/2014  10:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list
I'm unfamiliar with these coins, so I'll ask for clarification.
If these are two different coins, why does the flan have a similar shape/defects?
Some details match on both coins (dark arrows), while others seem unique (light arrows)
Again, just asking to learn something here.

1718-Spanish-8-Reales---Twins-Or-Not
Pillar of the Community
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1156 Posts
 Posted 12/02/2014  12:58 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jgenn to your friends list
I meant to say they were the same coin because I quickly spotted the defects that DVCollector has pointed to with dark arrows. In the side by side images I can now see the differences. Flipping between two different web pages is not the correct way to do a comparison. Thanks to DVCollector for illustrating the right way.

I'm away from my reference library now but I still believe the size and font of the assayer's initial does not match the Calbeto images. I also noted that the spacing of HISPANIRVM has the M ending up at about 7:00 where the Calbeto images have the M no lower than 8:00, but that may be within normal variance.
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 Posted 12/02/2014  01:10 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list
DVCollector You have one of the answers which leads to the others.

The two coins share both identical and different post strike damage - your white and black arrows. Your nice photo saves me the time of doing the same thing.

These two coins are DIFFERENT copies made from the identical molds. So they are TWINS not the same coin.

Because they are made by casting with a transfer image mold (a high quality one) the coins are FAKES - they are not counterfeits however.

They are Numismatic Forgeries. The value is therefore theoretically melt. In my case I go $15 over for new examples for my collection.

This is precisely the type of information that we used to use at ebay to get an ebay member permanently suspended.
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 Posted 12/02/2014  02:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add tokenmast to your friends list
Looked again, shield side same .only PMD ha? (post mold damage)
so not half twin. full
no reason to lie about stated weight,(2 decimal places) not same coin.

Seville Mint used screw press 1718 to 1725 but reference only says assayers J M

off set in mold?
Edited by tokenmast
12/02/2014 02:38 am
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 Posted 12/02/2014  02:41 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list
tokenmast The post mold damage are the actual differences between the two coins (white arrows) that makes each unique. The black arrows mark damage that is present in the mold and appears on all examples. The reason there is damage in the mold is that the master image has damage itself.

A mold can of course be offset simply by placing the master image in the mold matrix off center. Molded coins can also have die breaks, planchet clips, chop marks or any other feature seen on a coin.

On the shield side note the cut in the dentils near the P. On one copy it is clear and deep on the other there is just a hint. There are also differences in letter thickness.
Edited by swamperbob
12/02/2014 11:43 pm
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 Posted 12/02/2014  03:43 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add tokenmast to your friends list

Quote:
question that must be asked first - Have you checked to see if Seville used a screw press in 1718?


Pure Grace.

Thank you for asking
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1591 Posts
 Posted 12/02/2014  04:33 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MathieuMa to your friends list
Those copies are impressive, particularly the last one which sold for much !
I would have gladly checked that one in hand ...

I checked my catalog, I don't have any from this period to compare with (the closer is Sevilla 1730 - which uses another design, and has a good chance of being genuine as it came from the HSA collection) ...
But with the two pictures side by side, it's clear there is a problem (the other side is even easier, with a very visible post mold blow)

Bob : I'll repost them to the Facebook group, they are an excellent learning tool - thanks ! Those with an account there ... please don't give it up too fast, I'll post the first coin, then the other one (I'd like to know if someone see something on the expensive one - I was unsure about the design but didn't figured out that it could be wrong).
Edited by MathieuMa
12/02/2014 04:35 am
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 Posted 12/02/2014  1:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list
Wow--very interesting! Thanks for the explanation Swamperbob, all--very educational! Glad the photo helped the discussion!
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 Posted 12/02/2014  11:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add TJsCoins to your friends list
Cool thread!
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 Posted 12/03/2014  12:00 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list
Thankyou to all who took the time or just read this thread.

The purpose for posting these questions is to provide the tools that EVERY collector needs to assess coins. They are part of a typical authenticator's methodology. I learned this method in the early 1970s from a person I still hold in the highest regard as a near perfect blend of forensic science with avid collector.

Coins speak if you just get past the designs and look at the rest of the coin. Do not get caught up in how rare or valuable a coin may or may not be. First determine is what you are seeing correct for how the coin was supposed to be made.

All you need in this case is to know the coin is a manual screw press strike without a collar. Then you know it is a flat engraved and/or punched die pair. The stock for the coin is rolled and laminated manually. The coins were blanked and adjusted for weight before the strike.

The second step when you have two or more examples of a coin is a SIDE BY SIDE comparison. I create two files and place them on the laptop screen side by side (using the half screen function). I have a larger 30 inch screen to view the pictures on.

Once side by side look for odd features - both post strike damage and adjustment marks. These MUST BE different on genuine coins but are often the best proof of a forgery. Notice I say FORGERY not counterfeit. They are technically different things and the value (historical and monetary) is vastly different.

Next look for die anomalies. These are things present on the die that transfer to the coin - cracks, chips, double punching or slips of engraving tools are all die features. These are seen on all copies of a coin made from the same die.

Finally look at the coin and assess things like condition and value.

Authenticating is a process of gathering scientific facts - comparing them to known theories and seeing how they fit.

Weight
Diameter
Density
Font style
Punching priority
Edge design
Manufacture methods - edge and strike.

Think - study and see what a coin says to you - OBJECTIVELY.

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 Posted 12/03/2014  5:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MathieuMa to your friends list
Robert : here is the genuine coin used to make the mold
http://www.acsearch.info/search.html?id=818211

Now, I was wondering ... seeing that one of the coin is wrong was well explained (damaged on both, but additional damages on one of them). The second coin didn't had "white" (or another color) arrows to show missing damages from the other coin.

What makes you think this was not the original ?
Actually, the patina (if you ommit the picture style) could match on the cross side. (well, the pearls on the other side, on the crown, don't seem to match ...)
Edited by MathieuMa
12/03/2014 6:13 pm
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 Posted 12/03/2014  7:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add realeswatcher to your friends list
Checking in for the first time in a while (just haven't had time to contribute, though I've skimmed through threads perioidically). The ebay coin screamed "cast forgery" on first glance. Hadn't seen the listing for the "other" piece on his website... did some digging last night and also found the original from Marti Hervera/Soler y Llach (I mostly spent the time searching b/c, as was noted above, I found that "M" assasyer mark to be atypically-shaped). A bigger pic for those like me who have not been inclined to make a login for the new format of MCsearch to see full-size pics:

http://www.icollector.com/8-Reales-...iel_i9621397

My thought on seeing the three different photos... First, the ebay piece is clearly a simple cast... not a very good one. However, I am inclined to agree with Mathieu that the piece shown on his website may very well BE the genuine coin from the Hervera auction... WITH the caveat that the coin has clearly been dipped or otherwise had its toning removed between then and now. Comparing the (2) pics, no focal points appear to have altered between the original auction pic and the website pic... in other words, any/all planchet flaws, edge splits, divots/extra metal lettering, etc. look EXACTLY the same. Nothing appears to have changed on the website pic... were it a cast, you'd expect to see SOME sort of addition/subtraction. Also, the surfaces on the website coin as compared to the ebay listing are vastly different - ebay piece is an obvious cast, while the surfaces on the website piece look decent enough to be a genuine piece. He notes a weight of "27.00" on the website, which would be far too heavy for this devalued 8R (which has a wide range between 22-24g), but that just seems like a default number that was entered.

With all of the copies of that 1765 pillar 8R he's peddling... I'm guessing it is he himself that is dabbling in casting the copies.
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 Posted 12/03/2014  10:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list
MathieuMa I am suspicious of both of these because of a third example that appeared on the Sedwick site. The patina of the two coins on this site clearly means neither of these two match the third yet all three show numerous examples of post strike damage that are otherwise identical.

Now that I have seen THREE IDENTICAL copies I will not say any of the three is genuine without conclusive scientific tests on the coins to discover a "unique" genuine trait seen on only ONE exemplar.

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1591 Posts
 Posted 12/04/2014  11:48 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MathieuMa to your friends list
Robert, there is patina on the first coin IMHO - it's just a crappy picture.
I think the coin was cleaned in order to make the mold, hence it's much less visible (plus the scanner light didn't helped)
1718-Spanish-8-Reales---Twins-Or-Not

Anyway, we have a crook there - and it's not the first fake coin we see him listing.
What's more annoying is that it seems he could produce those !!
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 Posted 12/04/2014  10:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list
MathieuMa The two coins you show are not the same coin - are you maintaining that they are?

Look at the shape of the chip near the S in Hispaniarum - it is not the same on these two coins even taking into account cleaning and lighting. A close look at many features indicates the same thing. There is also a scratch outside the ring of dentils near the M adjacent to the damaged dentil that appears only on ONE coin. There are many other smaller indications like the size of the dots on the crown at the right side near the rim or the damage to one of the joins in the double border line nearest the X in REX. Taken together I see a real concern that these are only the tip of the iceberg for this particular issue.

These are all coins cast from the same mold or a series of molds made from one master. They are likely casts in silver - but I ask has the density been checked in any case? Does the auction site where one of these two coins appeared have a record of the density? Or was it passed because it "looked" right? I suspect that any of these coins might pass the "looks right" test if seen in isolation.

However, now we know that regardless of how many of these were made that all but ONE example are FORGERIES. Perhaps the original if one existed is still in the forger's collection.

Having discussed modern forgery techniques with many experts (including active forgers as well as die makers) I know that cleaning of the type being postulated does not have to occur at all. The coin does not in fact have to be cleaned to produce a mold using many forms of dental plastic molding. Some techniques I will indicate do absolutely require cleaning especially those involving electro-chemical means. But to presume that the coins are identical and therefore one of those particular two must be real simply because it appeared in an prestigious auction is not credible. I have purchased many counterfeits from similar venues.

The coins I class as counterfeit are those that fail to pass scientific tests - primarily SG tests.

Yet I know of NO auction house that screens coins using SG testing and NONE that posts the SG of the coin in the auction data. You are quite frankly lucky to get an accurate weight.

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