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 Replies: 19 / Views: 4,881 |
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
I agree with Child. When I first started taking pics of coins and posting them here I used my Celestron USB microscope which is a real PAIN in the you know what  Now I mostly use a point-n-shoot camera which works ok I guess. I would like to post GREAT pics but,o'well. John1  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7840 Posts |
I had a halfway decent set-up once, when imaging was a joy. I have not been able to recapture the set-up since I moved. So, I let others do my imaging for me until a can have a dedicated space for my copy stand set up.
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Once you hit on the lighting setup that works, the difference between the most lustrous of silver and the dullest brown copper is a few percentage points by comparison. I don't even have to move the bases of my Jansjos for any coin. It's all about slight adjustments in the angle from vertical at which you light the coin.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4085 Posts |
I guess part of my problem is that I don't really have a good place to leave a setup in place once I do find a combination that works. Part of the frustration is I do sometimes get pictures I am satisfied with, but can't easily duplicate that. My wife doesn't much appreciate me leaving my setup on the kitchen table long-term.  Edited by KenKat
04/12/2015 8:57 pm
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Ooooh. That *is* a stumbling block.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1314 Posts |
I can get a little frustrated when things don't go well - my camera is not dedicated, requiring frequent setups. But then I get something that encourages me to keep trying, and I'm back to work.  Three more pints and I can get the Jansjos, then it's a kidney for the beam splitter plate. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United Kingdom
17964 Posts |
I quite enjoy taking photos of coins and experimenting to get the best effect. Before joining CCF I'd hardly photographed any of my coins. Now I am building quite a portfolio of coin pictures. I've made my own 'diffuser' from an old lampshade, and I usually take photos on my bedroom windowsill on a sunny morning when the natural lighting is best.
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Quote:
then it's a kidney for the beam splitter plate I'm hoping you have Proofs and toners to photograph. Somehow, axial lighting seems to have developed a reputation as a good all-around lighting system, and nothing could be further from the truth. Axial lighting is a serious compromise in lighting capability which has application only in the above two cases, at the cost of losing a large percentage of the available light, only one possible lighting angle, and no depiction of luster. And it'll cost you $100 for a piece good enough to offer you that compromise. We don't teach that here. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1314 Posts |
SsuperDdave, I'm in no hurry for the beam splitter plate, but yes it is for toners and DMPLs.
Jansjos I could use any time now.
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
I kinda figured you were in tune with that; sometimes I say things for the audience rather than the original poster (every thread here is read by 10x the number of people who post in it). My apologies for any perceived slight.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1314 Posts |
I understand completely, and you probably cannot repeat it enough. Yet, there will be a new thread on that same topic any minute now. Often times, bloggers like to show how much they know or have. If it goes too far, egos get in the way of learning and sharing. Maybe I'll see what I can do with what I have.
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Well, there's still nothing like axial for capturing toning, which ignores all the usual rules. I still like my jury-rig for Proofs, though:  9" Circline fluorescent fixture with a hole cut through the center to stick the camera. 360 degrees (nearly) of uninterrupted light seems to nail them nicely. Just let the bulb warm up first. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1314 Posts |
This is one that might benefit from axial lighting. The photo appears flat and lifeless. Problem may be compounded by the slab.  |
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Yeah, that's a good candidate. With an axial setup, though, you're probably going to get a nice glare off the plastic right where you don't want it. This can be fixed with a larger light source (incandescent bulb or R30 type) and glass placement a couple degrees off - it'll push the glare to one side a bit into a place you can crop it.
Wish I could pick Todd Pollock's (blucc) brain on that. The trouble is, he's making his living from shooting coins and sharing his methods is obviously against his better interests.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2669 Posts |
I use a combination of (1) a dual photo frame for the ability to move the glass at will, (2) one jansjo for direct, movable lighting pointing directly to the glass, (3) a larger daylight bulb lamp that has its light bounced to the right direction via one of those tri-fold boards + aluminum foil, and (4) an otherwise blacked-out room. Slight changes to the angle of the jansjo is all that is usually required between coin shots.   Without axial lighting, the toning on this one is barely noticeable:  Always room for improvements, but this at least gives me the ability to show things like the speckled black toning on the Franklin, and proof surfaces like the other two. |
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Posted 04/12/2015 3:12 pm
