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 Replies: 55 / Views: 7,552 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4337 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5862 Posts |
Bravo! That one is much nicer than my VF25 example (and a lot more expensive, to boot)!
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
Great topic and Great coins and opinions. If you look at the registries for type sets you can see that almost everyone needs nice pre-1835 type. Nice Bust copper is always good type and darned scarce in 40 and above with no details.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
757 Posts |
Quote:
How much are Indian Head proofs? I'm with Barryg on the price. I think I payed around $400 for it. I have other classic proof coins and there really doesn't seem to be a huge demand for them. When you do find them you can usually get a pretty decent deal. My 1889 according to numismedia FMV is $438, the same year and condition business strike had a FMV of $219. The business strike had a mintage of just under 49 million, the proof has a mintage of 3,336  Looking at the mintage numbers most people assume classic proofs would be out of their price range, but in reality they are cheap (unfortunately). If you really want a classic proof I would consider watching heritage. Typically they have a couple on the Tuesday and Sunday auctions. Just remember the buyer premium if you go that route.  |
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Valued Member
United States
384 Posts |
Dave, why do you say unfortunately for the cheap price of proofs?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
757 Posts |
Quote:
Dave, why do you say unfortunately for the cheap price of proofs? Brain fart  I was thinking fortunately, but I guess I don't type that word often enough, usually it's unfortunately in my world  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5862 Posts |
Quote:
I have other classic proof coins and there really doesn't seem to be a huge demand for them. When you do find them you can usually get a pretty decent deal. I think it really depends on the type of coin. Try finding a proof Morgan, Trade or Seated Liberty dollar in nice condition at a "pretty decent deal". Or, as I recently found out, a 20-cent piece. We're talking THOUSANDS of dollars for each one in proof, compared to hundreds of dollars in a comparable MS grade. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
I tried to figure out how much I need to spend to get the last 12 Morgans for my set. If I shell out about $30K I can get them all except two in MS condition as in MS60
All I need is about $40,000 to finish my Morgan set if I am going to get them in really decent condition. This is a fantasy because I am not spending 40K on coins unless I know they will be worth 80K in ten years.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3479 Posts |
This is hands down one of most informative posts I've discovered on CCF.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
 Seeing some of the beautiful coins posted ..  Really makes me want to have some seated proofs someday. |
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CCF Advertiser
United States
1533 Posts |
Indian Head Proofs are ~$450 in 64 RD. They go to $1100 in 65RD, so I think 64RD is better. I don't like R&B proofs in any grade, I think they can look ugly.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3343 Posts |
1877-S Eagle Highest liquidity (purchased at melt + $100) Moderate rarity (237 PCGS survival) A perfect dream coin as a stacker and pocket piece   "Two minutes ago I would have sold my chances for a tired dime." Fred Astaire
Edited by thq
11/08/2016 1:00 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
533 Posts |
I was trying to think how to answer and it's tough because the criteria from the OP includes something that will be popular years from now. Who really know what will be popular 5, 10, or 20 years from now when the next generation of collectors begins taking over, if they even do. Maybe the rare coin market will go down and a different collectible will be selling for the big money although I don't think so. So let me try a few basic criteria. Gold and to a lesser extent silver will probably be a better choice. Larger denominations over smaller ones. Higher grade over lower one. If you stick with U.S. coins, and I assuming that is your focus based on the choice of forums, something from the western mints like Carson City or San Francisco (preferably CC) seems to hold it's own due to the wild west connection. 1800's over 1900's. So I would recommend a silver dollar (Trade, Morgan) or Gold coin dating from the 1800's in MS condition marked CC or S to search for key dates from. For instance almost all the CC Trade dollars are key dates and then some more than others. Edited by jaxenro
11/08/2016 1:19 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
THQ
I see real value in the Liberty Head gold coins. Many with low mintage sell for melt plus a few hundred dollars. I am talking about the coins after 1860 right up to the end. The Saints do get all the glory. If you look at buying coins as any other investment then you should buy on a steady basis in up or down markets and hold your coins for many years just like an IRA so you can dollar cost average your buying. For younger collectors they should just set a steady buying course and stay on it for 30-40 years. The best bet to me is to not try and flip coins but to invest in them as a collector and investor. If you are going to collect a full set of Morgans, for instance, that is an investment. How many times have you heard someone say "If only I had kept that coin I would have made a lot of money today".
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
The time to buy a key date is when you see it and have the money to pay for it.
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Replies: 55 / Views: 7,552 |
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Posted 10/03/2016 4:53 pm
