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1916-D Dime Or Memorex

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 Posted 12/18/2008  7:28 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Figman to your friends list
I didn't mention the dealer wanted to take the coin with him to a coin show and see what others thought before he paid me.
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 Posted 12/18/2008  7:53 pm  Show Profile   Check vermontensium's eBay Listings Check vermontensium's eCrater Listings Bookmark this reply Add vermontensium to your friends list
I also agree with the G6 grade w/damage. The coin looks authentic. The MM has all the correct diagnostics for an authentic coin. The "D" at this grade level tends to fill in thus looking like a "blob" of metal. Great find!
swcoin.ecrater.com
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 Posted 12/18/2008  11:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add okie-colin to your friends list
I have a 1916 Mercury that is more like AG-3. On the reverse you can just see what appears to be the top of a D mint mint mark. Anyone know if ANACS would be able to authenticate it with that much of the mint mark worn off? Your 1916-D looks authentic to me.
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 Posted 12/18/2008  11:24 pm  Show Profile   Check vermontensium's eBay Listings Check vermontensium's eCrater Listings Bookmark this reply Add vermontensium to your friends list
Yes they would. I suggest sending it in. This coin should be authenticated and slabbed.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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 Posted 12/18/2008  11:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Sir Ferrari to your friends list
Go back and search that coin purse again, you might find a 1909-s VDB cent in there!

A truly amazing find.
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 Posted 12/19/2008  09:01 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Figman to your friends list
That's funny because I found a 1909 and a 1909 weak S, but no VDB. DARN IT !!
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 Posted 12/19/2008  09:15 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add weerdsteev to your friends list
I agree with many of you who have commented that the prudent thing to do would be to have this coin authenticated. However, as one who likes to have my coins in nice albums, what do you do when your Dansco or Littleton album of Mercury dimes is complete except for 1916-D, which is separate, in a slab? Leave it in the slab or break the slab so you can have it in your album?
Edited by weerdsteev
12/19/2008 09:16 am
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 Posted 12/19/2008  11:42 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list

Quote:
Leave it in the slab or break the slab so you can have it in your album?
I'll take mine in the album, please!

Your answer depends on your intentions.

If you want to have a complete album that you have no desire to ever sell, then crack it, but keep the label with the album.

If you feel it might be sold one day, then leave it in the slab so that you can maximize your return.

I have no intention of every selling my coins, hence my answer to put the coin in the album!
Edited by jbuck
12/19/2008 11:44 am
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 Posted 12/19/2008  11:51 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jaobler to your friends list
For the album-set collector, I recommend you get the coin graded and take good-quality photos of the coin in the slab. Then, crack it to put in the album. Keep the slab label in the album as Jbuck suggests or else attach it to the coin purchase receipt. That documentation should be sufficient to convince a future buyer that you have a genuine coin.
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 Posted 12/19/2008  12:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mycrob to your friends list
Get it slabbed. Take nice close-up pictures of the coin in the slab. Then break the coin out of the slab and keep the slab documentation along with a printout of the picture. Then take a picture of the coin raw same magnification and lighting, etc. Then put the coin in your empty hole. Then if you do need to sell, you have great documentation that it is the same coin.
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 Posted 12/19/2008  3:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add steve199 to your friends list

Quote:
IF this is a counterfeit, it's a good one. If it does turn out to be counterfeit however, it makes you wonder how much time and effort the counterfeiter put into it. Would it be worth the trouble?


Yes, it would be worth the trouble (if you were the dishonest type). Fake 1921-D's are a dime a dozen, and they often have that worn look to throw potential buyers off.

I've got a 1921-D that looks very similar to that. Like you, I need to get that thing submitted...
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 Posted 12/19/2008  5:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add weerdsteev to your friends list
Jbuck, Jaobler and mycrob: Excellent advice! Thanks!
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 Posted 12/29/2008  9:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add numismo to your friends list
With all the fake slabs out there now, a potential buyer will still be a little leery about whether or not it's real. These are bad times for honest coin folks.
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 Posted 01/01/2009  9:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jewellge to your friends list

spend the money...get it authenticated and slabbed... unless grandma fesses up and admit she counterfeited it
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